Dust cap removal

[ap911]

I have an '84 carrera with 100,000 miles, which still has what are most likely the original brake rotors. I am trying to replace my front rotors and cannot remove the dust cap.

I searched the forum and tried; pulling it out with channel locks, the 2" pipe clamp method, prying it out with a crow bar, heating the hub, all to no avail. After many hours and lots of sweat the thing has not budged.

I am ready to drill a hole where the notch is on the hub then access the allen bolt remove the hub and bang out the dust cover from the inside.

Will the metal filings from drilling contaminate the bearings and require a rebuild?

Anybody else find another way to remove the cover?

[Wil Ferch]

Did your search find *this* version of the muffler clamp process? ....the absolute best --->

Removal of Dust Cap on Frt wheels bearings

- Wil

[ap911]

Thanks. I tried that method and ended up with bent muffler clamps. I was affraid of stripping the lug bolts if I turned them any harder.

[imcarthur]

Two hammers. One with claw on the 'joint' of the cap & lightly tap the business end with the other.

Ian

[WERK I]

This has always worked for me;
Go to Home Depot or any hardware store and pick up the following;
1. PVC reducer connector.. can't remember if it was 3 1/2" to 2 1/2" reducer, but you get the idea. It must be wide enough to cover the hub bearing area, but not too big that it won't fit between the studs and hub.

2. threaded 3/8" rod...comes in long lengths, cut down to about 6"

3. 3/8" nuts and washers...about 3 each

4. heavy flat bar stock...approx. 3 1/2" long. Drill 1/2" hole in center.

Spray PB Blaster between cover and hub to loosen any oxidation. Lightly tap hub/cover area after 15-20 minutes with hammer.
Screw threaded rod into dust cover and lock in place with nut and washer.
Slip PVC reducer over dust cover/hub.
Place plate over reducer so that it spans the dust cover. Slip on heavy washer and 3/8" nut and start tightening. This will retract the rod and pull dust cover off.

I never thought PVC would be strong enough to withstand the pressure to remove the cover, but it worked! Be sure and secure the area where the rod screws into the dust cover with a nut and washer to prevent thread damage on the dust cover.

[450knotOffice]

I had this issue come up last year when I rebuilt my suspension.

I finally ended up using Jeremy964's technique, which involved two hammers. The claw end of one hammer was placed into the little groove in the cover and the other side was laid up against a lugbolt. Then I took the second hammer and hit the first hammer on its steel head. The blow was horizontal and toward the car. I rotated the wheel 180 degrees and did it again, and again, and again, until the dust cap finally worked its way out. It worked, but what a pain in the arse just to get a dust cover off. By the way, don't worry about beating up the dust cover a bit. It's pretty thick and strong and is certainly not structural.

Give it a try. I think you'll find success, but be patient. At first it won't seem to be working, but ever so slowly it'll start to work its way out.

[chrisp]

WERK-I,

I've though of this solution but didn't attempt it because I assumed the rod would pull the threads out of the cap. There isn't a lot of thread surface there...but maybe it's enough.

How do you seal the hole when you're done...or do you buy new dust covers every time you use your method?

It would be cool to weld a nut to the cap, thread the rod into that and have a permanent fixture for removing the cap...as long as there's enough clearance between dust cap and the wheel cap to include the weldnut.

[Wil Ferch]

The method I posted should work..and believe me..I've tried them all. Best to soak the circumference of the caps with PB Blaster if they were never off before....no matter what method you choose.

The wheel studs are always harder metal than the nuts....nuts will be damaged first., in most cases....

try it again.....

Wil

[WERK I]

chrisp,
I thought the dust covers on your car had the threaded protrusion on them. I thought the Carrera's of that era, turbo/non-turbo, all had the same covers. Sorry to lead you down the wrong path.

[ap911]

Thanks for all of the help.
I will keep trying. PB Blaster and a retry of the two muffler clamp method is next, follow by the two hammer method.
I would love to replace these covers with the turbo ones. That method makes the most sense.

[randywebb]

C-4 will work.

[Wil Ferch]

Do a search....you will see my post on how I *broke* a slide hammer trying to get the TURBO STYLE ( with center nut).... off !

!!!!!!!

- Wil

[jet911]

The muffler clamp method does work. I have and '86 with 97K miles on her. About 3K miles ago, I did what you are doing. The covers had never been off. I spent nearly three hours trying to get off those $#%*@# dust caps. After reading through the archives, I found the muffler clamp trick. What I did was to use the muffler clamp in conjuntion with the two hammers, hooking the claws behind the clamp then tap, tap, tap, one hammer against the other, then rotate the wheel and continue tapping and turning the wheel. After about three minutes, the cap popped off.

Good luck!

[Wil Ferch]

To be fair.... I've come across some pretty cheesy muffler clamps..some seem to be stronger in sideways bending than others....

As to technique...this wins hands down, however....

- Wil

[BertBeagle]

Muffler clamp idea looks good.

I have used a simple piece of wood about 1" square and 6 to 8" long. I place the end of the wood in the groove in the cap and tap the other end with the leather side of my brass and leather hammer. You don't have to hit very hard but you do have to keep going around the cap. When you see it start to move you can gradually reduce the force of the hammer. Eventually you will be able to grab it with one hand and easily pull it the final way off.

The whole process might take 15 to 30 sec of tapping with the hammer.

You could probably use a piece of 3/4 or 1" hardwood dowel but I think the square section spreads the force of the hammer blow better (ie less chance for damage). I just grabbed what was laying around and it works very well. Lowe's or Home Depot have some hardwood pieces about the right size.

The key - be patient and don't hit hard enough to do damage. It will come off.

[randywebb]

"I just grabbed what was laying around..."

- That's pretty much how I do all car repair.

[defcon65]

Lots of PB Blaster days in advance, heat the hub with a heat gun, strike the groove all the way around, deploy patience, swearing and sacrifice something to the Norse Gods, like a cold six-pack. That oughta do it.
They are on there snug, no doubt.
Have you tried the rear lower shock bolts yet? What fun!

J

[HarryD]

Pelican to the rescue! The two hammer method worked like a champ 4 blows and off!

[mepstein]

I just hit it on the side with a brass hammer. A couple blows loosens it up. I’ve done dozens of hubs this way. Takes 30 seconds and doesn’t mess up the cap.

[jlex]

Just had a tussle with removing my grease caps when I rebuilt my front calipers. Wanted to repack the wheel bearings while I was in there.
Use a 2" muffler clamp to give you something to grab on to. Then use a crow's foot pry bar levered against the clamp. Hit the opposite end of the pry bar with a hammer. Move the bar around the clamp while giving it a few wacks to make it come off evenly. Should be off in about 3 minutes.