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Harpo's Avatar
 
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Fuel lines through the tunnel

Has anyone used stainless steel fuel lines through their tunnel? I just purchased a roll of 3/8 stainless steel so I can experiment with it.

David

Old 02-24-2021, 05:04 AM
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I think it's a reasonable mod since they are a PITA to change. The challenge will be getting connectors to adapt 3/8" pipe to metric threaded connectors.

I looked at doing this when I re-did my lines but ultimately went back with stock lines. Getting the connectors, adapters, etc. to work cleanly in the front of the car became too much of a headache for me. I was worried about persistent leaks on any compression-type connectors.

Flaring the tube-ends is another option.
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Old 02-24-2021, 05:36 AM
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Yes, I'm going to add the 37 degree flair to one and and hopefully weld a male AN-6 bung to the other end.

David
Old 02-24-2021, 06:20 AM
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Looks like Tom has already done this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5knrIAQa_a0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLL9VnPQ-PQ

Last edited by Harpo; 02-24-2021 at 06:30 AM..
Old 02-24-2021, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harpo View Post
Great links. Thanks
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Old 02-24-2021, 06:45 AM
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I'd be concerned with the SS tubes bouncing/rattling around in the tunnel (noise and wear) and possibly interfering with the throttle. The factory fuel tunnel lines (and most replacement sets) are contained in a smaller tunnel INSIDE the tunnel that isolates and protects your fuel lines.

I don't think it's possible to get rigid SS lines into the smaller tunnel in the tunnel.
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Old 02-24-2021, 08:12 AM
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I ran my stainless lines inside the tunnel in the tunnel and they don't rattle. There are some strategic spots to cover with tubing to avoid chafing.

Stainless is much harder than the stock nylon lines in my 74 and the nylon didn't show any wear.

You do need to choose your fittings wisely because that is what determines what fits through the tunnel.
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Old 02-24-2021, 08:40 AM
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Tom, I was hoping to silver solder a male bung on one one and flair the other end after installation using the tool below. I suspect that The Eastwood tool would not be capable of performing the flair in car and I'm hoping the hydraulic tool can be done in car. I was also considering using heat shrink tubing on the outside to dampen any metal on metal contact.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N9UVVSX/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=hotrodhippie-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01N9UVVSX&linkId=c64f3dc3f581fc347a0c0e1ed392525e#customerRe views

Last edited by Harpo; 02-24-2021 at 11:09 AM..
Old 02-24-2021, 11:04 AM
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Harpo, worth a try.

3/8" stainless is hard to flare so do a test piece for sure. Aluminum is an option too.

I pre-flared both sides. The front was an inverted flare because the fitting is compact. I did have to stretch the extruded hole a tiny bit on the front bulkhead.

I also pressure tested my lines flares before installing in the car. Something to think about.

My line return is 5/16"

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