Cooling the ROW
 

I've been working down my cooling problem...unless I have a bad gauge or sender then, well, it is what it is. On further investigation, most of my problems seem to happen during prolonged idle (like I'd encounter during rush hour...if they had one here). Started thinking about fans. I have the 23 tube brass Euro cooler....you think a fan could attach to that and function? Or, opinion now....do you think it's too big, too open, and too unprotected?

Moving to San Antonio and, again, worrying about hooking up AC and overheating.

Supposedly the brass cooler is the best of the bunch for stock coolers. Actually I think before you do the fan close off the space under the cooler. That more or less trangular area between the cooler, the valance and the front of the tub. That way the air can only go through the cooler and not under it. Yes, if your car sits and idles in one place it will warm up. If you sit and idle and the temp hits 240, but then you get underway and it comes down to normal temps it's not a problem. it's if it goes over 250, or it stays high all of the time or for really extended times. The fan on the '87-'89 models doesn't even kick on until 245. If that was good enough for the factory.... They are pretty smart people.

Guess I never really addressed your question. A fan would have to make some difference if it was moving air over the cooler.

Cruising at 90 on the freeway for hours with the temp sitting at 240 or 250... now that would be bad.

Have you tried the little tech article where as you bend the copper tab on the floor heater controls just enough so the blower motor comes on in the engine bay with out letting the heat in the cab? Look in the tech article section on the left hand side of the home page. Seems to cool mine when ideling for a sustained period. YMMV

my SCs a euro and I've never had cooling problems, although on extremely hot days the temp needle does overlap the first skinny line on the guage, it has yet to rise above halfway. I'm planning a front valence cut and possibly the turn signal mounted duct to aid in cooling, although it really isn't an issue quite yet.

I also have ROW SC with the brass tube oil cooler and I dont have any problems with running hot. My gauge doesn't have a numerical scale, but the needle never has gone above the 8:00 position. Maybe your themostat is not routing oil to the cooler when it should? Net time the car is at operating temperature, check to see if the oil cooler is hot to the touch. Also, when I had my engine out to replace the dilivar studs, the engine oil cooler was really restricted with years of crud (oil+dirt). Something to think about.

Thanks guys, don't know where to begin. Going thru 2 fast food lines a couple weeks ago (happens when you and wife can't agree) at night, probably mid-70s, it hit 250 (maybe 260)...seemed to drop to 230-240 when I got back on the road, but never got back down anywhere close to 210. I've watched carefully since then, has been hanging in the 230-230 range, and haven't had extended idles. However, last summer I recall hitting 240+ on a regular basis. Both oil coolers are hot to touch. I like the idea of channeling the air, and have thought about the oil cooler scoop, but it only works if you're moving. Thinking now of taking the suggestion, blocking off the bottom, installing the fan and the scoop...then again, I could just drive after dark in SAT during the summer and forget AC entirely...now just got to sell that to the wife :)