If it helps, saw an episode from "Mike's Restorations" on Youtube restoring a '67 911, he ran into the same issue on fan rivets, he got "Joeleggs" to replicate factory rivets pressed in perfectly

Watching Mike's video is what made me bump this thread, since Mike didn't actually do it himself and I wanted to find out what our fellow forum experts use to set these solid rivets. SmileWavy

I have done some digging and research online in the meantime and luckily even found some pics buried deep on Joe Leggs website: he bolts down the fan on a thick plate and then uses a arbor press which I assume has been modified with a bucking bar inserted in the arbor:

https://www.joeleggs.com/uploads/7/8...-0915_orig.jpg

https://www.joeleggs.com/uploads/7/8...-0916_orig.jpg

Something like this is available on Amazon and Ebay for $10 or so:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1686594824.jpg


I have also found out that the aircraft guys use actual air rivet guns, which work and look like an air hammer but have a shorter stroke and less speed. This is apparently important for the integrity of the rivet, to not embrittle the material etc. I wouldn't want to bet my life on it on an air frame, but I'd wager a guess that this is not critical in our application and you can just use a cheap air hammer that many of us already have. :D

Back in the day Chuck Stoddard referred me to Metric & Multistandard Components Corp. that’s where I found rivets I’ve used for 30 yrs. The last time, I had to buy 1000, they might not even sell them anymore. 1st fan pix factory. 2nd fan pix home built. I never had a problem. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1686599037.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1686599102.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1686599181.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1686599283.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1686599367.jpg

I just used an air hammer, an old CP Zip gun. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1686599822.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1686599882.jpg

DIN 661 M5 rivets
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1686604263.jpg
Got a bag of 100 off eBay , cost about $0.17 each...
Have not used these yet, but they look like rivets to me.
Looking back at these posts,.I should have gotten 16mm length rivets to make my life easier. They have that length available.
David
EngiNerding

Gled,
So they should be a 5mm x 16mm rivet?

These the correct spec?

DIMENSIONAL ATTRIBUTES
Diameter (Nominal): M5
Diameter (Dimension): 5mm
Diameter (Minimum): 4.82mm
Diameter (Maximum): 5.15mm
Length (Nominal): 16mm
Unthreaded Shank Length: 13.5mm
Head Diameter: 8.8mm
Head Diameter (Minimum): 8.22mm
Head Diameter (Maximum): 8.8mm
Head Height, Overall: 2.5mm


CTopher

The factory rivets might have been longer, 16mm was the longest MMCC had. Their catalog uses DIN references for their part numbers.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1686609963.jpg

And have you successfully used the 16mm rivets?


CTopher

For 30 yrs. At least 50 fans. And switching fan hubs a lot, from small late hubs to large early ones. Certainly not the only option, but I found these to replicate originals the closest.

Thank you for the info and confirmation.


CTopher

That’s for a Brazer Head Rivet, not a flush head.

I use a flat punch to support the rivet head.

https://youtu.be/QDnIrU94dZQ

However...., there are reasons to be a bit cautious regarding Joe Leggs!

https://www.early911sregistry.org/forums/showthread.php?171428-Stolen-Parts-Ferrari-and-Porsche-Joe-Leggs-pleads-no-contest-Felon

Anyone have some of the metric rivets they are wanting to sell?

One needs to be careful with the angle/taper on the countersink portion of the rivet. The hole is not 100 degree like most rivets. Also, the rule of thumb ao the length is 1-1/2 times the diameter protruding before setting the rivet. If you can’t find a rivet at the correct length, buy longer ones and trim them.

I’m making them on the lathe these days, tried some of the so called “right size” rivets and none of them fit correctly, most where too loose in the hole with the wrong tapered angle.

Did you buy DIN661 M5x16? Those are the right taper and length.

These aren't the right ones to get are they....

https://www.aircraftspruce.com.au/catalog/pnpages/AN426AD-3-4.php?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAA-FAgEkdtg1TWtPkOf7h-YHNCpOuc&gclid=CjwKCAjwn6LABhBSEiwAsNJrjmPUZgOrTy7 nZNUECIt_WHpsM1_iNB70RmMblW2GrMmHOukNq4AmsRoCh-cQAvD_BwE

Those are not it.

The China ebay sourced M5x16 work ok but Al quality/series is unknown. They hold fine & fit and finish look OEM. They come in slightly low – .25mm (final rivet head to steel hub). The China rivets are flat faced so I crazy glued the M5x16 to a steel flat rivet to transfer ring marks and center backup on my press. A tap with hammer sideways breaks glue bond and acetone removes residual glue. I used counter sunk screws in the non-riveted holes to help with alignment. I used a hollow nose air hammer chisel held on the press ram via a piping floor riser clamp welded to a plate and 3/8” rod coupling. Menards has the flat steel rivets. Use an air hammer if the mushroom on the backside is not centered. An arbor press would work better than a hydro as one must lock down the ram. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1745422466.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1745422466.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1745422466.jpg