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Distributor issue?
I am a good ways into my engine drop and reseal. Pulled the distributor, disassembled without pulling off the gear at the bottom, cleaned, oiled, put it back together.
So what’s the problem? I watched Tirwins video on youtube about testing the vac advance. Tested vac canister. Advance holds perfect vacuum and does move the arm that goes into the body of the distrubutor. But the magnetic pulse generator does not move at all. In his video vac wiggles the mpg clockwise or counterclockwise. Mine does not move at all, nor can I see how it would move as the whole assembly is attached to the distributor body. ![]() ![]() ![]() Only difference maybe mine is on the workbench his is in the car. Both cars are 1983. What am I missing? Thanks |
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it is a very easy answer.You adv.plate is frozen.This is very common problem due to the vacuum advance unit being kaput.
So.remove the coil ,flat heat screw from the bottom .I like to remove it because it can get damaged by the oil or what ever you are going to use to free it up. I always used ZEP-45 penetrating spray it beats by far wd 40.... Use a wise to hold one portion and the for other moving part i use big channel lock pliers.You must be 100% gentle to do this job.Do not be in a hurry ,mm by mm try to move left and right .It will get loose eventually..to the point where you will be able to spin it just by your hands.... that is all Ivan zep here https://www.championglobalgh.com/zep-chemicals/ i use these pliers https://octopart.com/440-channellock-7540462
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1985 911 with original 495 067 miles...796 732 km "The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein. |
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Hi Ivan. Thanks for your assistance.
My vac canister holds vac on the advance side but on the retard side it leaks and will not hold vacuum. I have had the retard line removed and plugged for the last year. Not sure if that means the vac canister is useable or not. Still trying to remove the coil. Screws are quite tight. I will get some penetrant on the plates and let them soak overnight. Thanks again |
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Could not wait til morning to try it. Put the lower plate in the vice and got the upper plate with a big set of pliers as you suggested. Lube, back and forth, lube, back and forth for 20 minutes now its smooth as could be.
I noticed my lube was flushing red fluid out. Could be rust from inside the hub or maybe old hardened grease dissolving. Can’t wait to get it back on a running car. Engine still on the stand so it will be awhile. |
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So, given that my vac canister holds vac on the advance side but leaks slowly down on the retard side, do I need to replace it if I have the retard side plugged off?
Thanks |
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u r welcome...
Yes,you should remove the vacuum advance unit and replace it.....that is the reason why the adv.plate was frozen..as i mentioned...the red fluid is rust washed away by you.. Ivan
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1985 911 with original 495 067 miles...796 732 km "The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein. Last edited by proporsche; 03-04-2021 at 04:36 AM.. |
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@ Funracer
Distributor disassebling/maintenance is shown here http://www.elfertreff.de/showthread.php?t=26695 (just use an online translator) http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=de&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.elfertreff.de%2Fshowthread.php% 3Ft%3D26695 Quote:
It must move freely: EDIT:I should have read more posts, ... Ivan gave you already the answer BR
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911 SC 3.0, 1982, black, US model Own digital ECO build All about the 930/16 and 930/07 Lamba based US SC models: http://www.elfertreff.de/showthread.php?t=26670 (its in german english will follow, use google translator meanwhile) Last edited by AndrewCologne; 03-04-2021 at 02:21 AM.. |
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Quote:
If I need to replace can you recommend a good brand? PP looks to only have them through 1979. Mine is a 1983. Thanks Last edited by Funracer; 03-04-2021 at 10:47 AM.. |
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Quote:
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