Help. Need pros opinion on synchro grind issue
 

thanks in advanced.

SmileWavy

Sound bollox to me. I don't think they adjusted the clutch properly, and it is dragging slightly. Its happened to me before.

Reverse doesn't have a synchro. I concur that your clutch is probably out of adjustment; it appears the clutch job wasn't properly completed or there's something else wrong. Get it properly adjusted before it really wears out the synchro's. Speed shifting sends 915 synchro's to an early grave; the transmission isn't designed for it. Cheers, Jim

Thanks fellas. Thats what I suspected at first....

:confused:

Before you go to extreme lengths, make sure that your shifter coupler/linkage is adjusted properly. Once I re-installed my engine after a rebuild i had similar symptoms. A search on this website led me to the directions for proper coupler adjustment. Problem went away.

Forget the mechanic :mad: Get Wayne,s 101 projects book and do it yourself. In the book are 3 articles about replacing and adjusting a 915 clutch. I,m sure if you have any problems with adjusting it, lots of people here will help you out. This book and the search function on the bbs will tell you all you need to know.

Good luck,

Ed

Waynes book has a very good (and easy to follow) description with pictures. You have to grovel around under the car a bit, but it isn't too bad.

Yeah... I was thinking about doing the shift coupler... ! That may be the ticket.

Actually, the mechanic was talking to me away from the boss and he offered to do the synchros on his own time, as a side job. I may take him up on that as it would save me a bundle. I do like the way that he did the clutch.

I do have both of Wayne's books...and they are pretty damn good and useful for a newbie like me. :cool:

Adjusting the shift coupler and the clutch are both easily within the capability of a new Porsche owner. A few hand tools and a couple beers and you'll be amazed at how smoothly it will shift. Might take a few tries to get the shifter adjusted just right, but you'll definitely notice the difference.

I like the idea about the beers....

Replacing synchro's ain't cheap; the parts alone, for a proper job "start" at $500. Cheers, Jim

dB,

It is very possible that your 'mechanic/shop' is not being truthful with you about the synchronizers ... in order to drain your wallet of another $2000- $3000! From your previous thread ... they seem to have a propensity for finding 'extra' things that need to be done at your expense ... with each and every visit to the shop!!!

! suspect that you just paid for an unnecessary clutch job ...

Did the shop attempt to adjust your clutch prior to declaring that it needed to be replaced? Are you aware that normal wear of the clutch disck reduces free play, and that it must be adjusted over the service life of the disk? There are three possible causes for grinding in reverse: 1) binding/rusted pilot bearing causing drag on the trabsaxle input shaft, 2) too little free play in the clutch adjustment, and 3) frayed/stretching clutch cable.

Now, just what were the symptoms that necessitated the clutch job???

I took it to 3 different shops. The first one inspected it, and said I needed a clutch job...estimate $2500

dB,

Do you have any idea what the current freeplay measurement is?

Please get it adjusted to the proper 3/4" - 1" freeplay, or do it yourself! Was the clutch cable replaced? How about the pilot bearing?

I dont know what the current freeplay measurement is. They did replace the pilot bearing, but not the clutch cable. Here is a list of what they did:

Clutch kit
Flywheel Seal
Fork
Gear oil
Pilot bearing
Horseshoe Spring
Oil change and filter
Breather cover gasket
Thermostat o-ring
Red oil pressure switch
replaced the defective S-hose to oil pan

Charged 8 hours labor for clutch
1 hour labor for flywheel seal (a scam I know)
1.5 hours for breather cover gasket, red oil switch, thermostat O ring
$26.95 to clean up flywheel.

Even if I did get over charged...what recorse do I have now?

Should I go there tomorrow and ask for the old parts back for my records that there was actual damage?

i have a question...sorry to jump on your thread but it is related

I was working on my car with the rear in the air and the wheels off

When I started the motor, with the tranny in N, I could see the rear wheels spinning...not fast mind you but there were spinning...

is this normal??? or is my clutch out of adjustment. I was very careful to do the whole process of 2mm and then 25mm etc...straight from the manual (I don't know if those are the exact numbers but I used wayne/bentley)

I know my 1st is a little grindy...so I usually touch 2nd before going for 1st and that usually helps??

thanks

MJ

PS Sonic dB what shop did you use? I know where the first estimate if from...just curious...and NO THIS IS NOT TO INSTIGATE A SHOP BASHING thread...just curious who you went to since I used to get work done at "the expensive place"...PM me if you want

82SC check your PM inbox.

Warren... you said:

"There are three possible causes for grinding in reverse: 1) binding/rusted pilot bearing causing drag on the trabsaxle input shaft, 2) too little free play in the clutch adjustment, and 3) frayed/stretching clutch cable"

** If thats true, which Im sure it is.... why would the shop deny that number 2 above (clutch adjustment) could be the cause of the grinding...

Also, they didnt replace the clutch cable #3! Why not...it is the original clutch cable after all?

These are questions for the repair shop. I just called and left them a message with your analysis.

Thanks again for your help. The problem is that the repair shop owner was very defensive and argumentative with me today... so what recourse do I have other than just complain again?

Erik

Consider it a lesson learned and do it yourself or get another shop. Adjusting the clutch is pretty easy stuff if you have a way to jack the car up. This is probably a stupid question but.. did you get new floor mats or do anything that would restrict the ability of the clutch pedal to go all the way to the floor?
-Chris

Well, you weren't bent over and sodomized mercilessly, but your mechanic certainly did not cut you any breaks.

I would definately re-adjust the clutch cable before declaring synchro failure. The 915 does have a habit of eating synchros if not treated nicely, but any decent mechanic would rule out the simple stuff before wanting to sell you another $2000 or so in work.

8 hours for the clutch is about right.

Was slightly concerned with the other labor charges you were hit with. Looks like the shop went by "the book" for your labor - It doesn't even come close to taking 1 hour for the flywheel seal once the engine is out. - That is a labor charge with a little "cushion" built in for things like cutting stripped flywheel bolts and the like

He also "booked" you for replacing the pressure sensor, gasket and O-ring. (actual time required about 10 minutes, 15 if you clean everything spotless before putting it all back)

AFJuvat