SSI Heat Exchangers/Headers Question
 

Hey guys,

I'm interesting in the SSI heat exchangers in my 3.0 '81 SC but after then I read that the oil lines will need to be re-routed. How difficult is that and are there any special tools needed for that?

In addition, would any one know of any headers/heat exchangers that don't require moving the oil line?

Thanks

Yes you need to get the xover oil pipe.
Pretty straight forward to install in the engine.
The hard part is taking the old oil line from the
Thermo. I ended up cutting it and made my own
36 mm crawfoot. Just get a 36mm wrench and cut
And shave the shaft a little.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1617770063.jpg

Awesome that's a good tip!

So you only need 1 new oil line for the SSI header install on an SC? PP says that you need 2. I also spoke to Elephant Racing and they said you only need 1. I'm sure this has been questioned many times, but how many do you need (for an SC)? Thanks.

You need two. The metal crossover that goes under the car by the trans, and then a new one that connects from the x-over pipe to the T-stat. It has a metal length and then a 100 degree L shaped bend to come back to the x-over line.

Do all longtube headers needing the oil re-route? Does anyone make one that doesn't need that extra modification or is it not possible due to how all longtube headers are designed?

You have to reroute them. Why wouldn't you want to? Rerouting the line is beneficial, you don't have the oil line near the hot exhaust.

If I have to do it again.. I would give elephant
Racing's upper route pipe a try..
https://www.elephantracing.com/911/oil-cooling-for-911/oil-lines-hoses-fittings/oil-lines-hoses/universal-oil-crossover-pipe/

More for the added complexity and cost. Is there a chance that the thermo can be damaged during the swap of the line?

I don't think there's anyway around it with the early
Exhaust like SSI's.
There's always a chance on damaging the Thermo.
Place a wooden Wedge between the thermo and wheel well
for minimal movement
I didn't use heat instead cut and dremell the nut with lots
Hopefully yours won't be as seized as mine.

I used to swap mine between SSis and original exhaust every year to pass smog checks.
Without stuck fasteners it can be done in about an hour.
The t-stat connections can be stubborn and of course the exhaust studs can be tricky.
All doable if you're patient....

I found getting the oil line off the engine with the nearby oil return tube in place pretty near impossible as the nut had fused with the case union plug. I ended up cutting the nut off, but then needed a new case union plug (999-136-008-01) and crush washer.