gome..it is 911 Carrera engine...no wur no accu. no fuel distributor.....just to let you know

ivan

Ash...yes do as much as you can replacing the fuel delivery lines..i would wait with those in the tunnel for now.Have you look inside your fuel tank by removing the fuel level sender?
You can remove the engine fuel line but be very very careful so you do not drop any washer on nut inside the intake chambers...

Ivan

I've removed all those parts, im also ordering the fuel line kit from griffiths. I was considering buying a stubby kit of wrenches, however I only need a 17 and/or a 19mm.
I've bought a cheap stanley wrench set and will use a grinder to shorten them.

Thanks

Looking to do that today, will update with the photos later today.

Hey Ivan, yes, will have a look inside the fuel tank today(through the fuel sender).

I've also done a fuel pressure test on the fuel rail. I get 2.5 bar, however once the fuel pump stops, the fuel pressure drops immediately.

From what I know this is 1 of a few things that could have gone wrong, either the FPR or the check valve not working as it should.

The fuel pump is new but was replaced 4 years ago, since then, car has not run.

Could it be the FPR?

I've also tested the volume air flow sensor with my osciloscope. I made a video of it as well. The voltage drop/gain is very smooth accross the AFM vane angles.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ctm_1JoiaA


Yes, ill be very careful not to drop anything into the intake. I need to remove the intake as I am unable to remove the injectors. They are stuck, I doubt they have ever been removed or serviced

Fuel pressure is in the right range with the engine off. Next check would be engine running you need around 29 psi. You can use a hand vacuum pump to simulate the engine running for this test.

I think you're chasing your tail with the fuel line replacement. I don't think it's a bad idea to replace them but I don't believe that's where your problem is either. Rough idle is almost always a good indicator of unmetered air at idle. Pulling your intakes might show a bad intake gasket or cracked riser. You mention you checked lines so assuming you're right and they're all good, you possibly have some unmetered air coming in from around intake gaskets or the booth that ties the intakes together is another suspect area.

Hi Nick,

The car doesn't doesn't run well nor does it run for longer than a minute or so with the engine hunting. So it would be very difficult to carry out a test with it running.

The sensors are working just fine, i'm at 90% certainty. Voltage outputs have been tested on an osciloscope and is within spec in line with the workshop manual.

Air coming in from intake gaskets could well be the cause, once they come off I guess we will find out. I've purchased the tools for the intake removal, now just awaiting the parts for the job.

I've sprayed a healthy amount of PB blaster around those nuts.

Doesn't need to run. You can test it with a jumper at the DME relay or at the fuel pump fuse and by using a vacuum pump. There are instructions on this site somewhere for doing a FPR test on a non running vehicle. You're using the hand vacuum pump to apply vacuum to operate the FPR. I haven't done it but I know I've seen something about doing this.

BTW, are you SURE the CHT is good and that it's making good connection? A bad CHT acts very similar to how you describe your engine running. I haven't read all the threads but I'm assuming you've also made sure all the grounds are in place, tight and clean? Not saying that's your issue but it's one of the common steps you take when you have issues with a 3.2.

Hi everyone, I've managed to get the car running again, it started up perfectly once the spark plug wires/distributor and coil were replaced. It is however still running on 5 cylinders as the injector from cylinder 3 is not clicking, probably still stuck. Would have to pull the injectors off to get them cleaned.
I will post an update on my first post so that it might help others.
Thanks for all the help.