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Fresh air blower fan problem
After replacing the blower fan because I could not get
It to run at full speed I still have the same issue. I removed the control unit in the dash also ( a ***** to remove) and cleaned the contacts and did A continuity test at all positions so I think it’s okay. I still can’t get full speed after reinstalling it. I get speed 1and 2 but won’t run in 3 but just turns the fan off. I checked the continuing in the connector of the fan while selecting the position on the control lever. I get it for pin 2 and 3 but not 4 which is the white wire. Can any one help or had the same issue? |
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Here is a picture of the connector to the fan.
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Black is 12v, white/ green is low speed, white/ yellow medium speed
and white full speed. |
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Heck, I’m only 5 not 71!
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If you are talking about the upper three speed fan control lever then you might have the issue that I had. If the faceplate mounting brackets are cracked then you will have movement in the frame when moving the upper lever preventing the full motion of the lever to the third speed position.
![]() I repaired the cracked mounting brackets and pop riveted the plastic frame back onto the metal frame. ![]() I also added several washers between the back mounting frame and the chassis. This relieved some of the stress on the plastic mounting bracket. ![]()
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Pat Henry Targa80 1980SC Targa (Mocha Brown) |
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 12,651
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Hmmmm.
I have a similar issue. How hard is to inspect the panel without removing it? How hard is it to remove the control panel?
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Harry 1970 VW Sunroof Bus - "The Magic Bus" 1971 Jaguar XKE 2+2 V12 Coupe - {insert name here} 1973.5 911T Targa - "Smokey" 2020 MB E350 4Matic |
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Heck, I’m only 5 not 71!
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Quote:
I have read on this site that you can disconnect the Bowden cables from the assembly leaving them connected in the frunk. In my opinion, it probably can be done but I thought it was a tight work space and decided to disconnect in the frunk. Label each of the cables before disconnecting from the frame or in the frunk. I should note that I was putting in the Electrocooler AC system and had the access to everything in the frunk for the mod. There is the one bolt holding the panel and frame in place. Removing the bolt will allow you to extract the assembly a little way out depending on the amount of slack on the Bowden cables and the wire harness for the fan switch. Note: there is also the four light bulbs two on each side of the plastic frame. I disconnected the three Bowden cables in the frunk. One is attached to the blower assembly and two connect to the driver side blend valve. The blend valve has one Bowden on the front and the other one on the backside. I removed the two screws under the driver side footwell to loosen the blend valve for access to the bolt/nut. Be careful with the bolt/nut, do not over tighten, and don’t let them drop out of hole. If you do remove the assembly I would recommend lubricating each of the three cables. Do a search on the internet on lubing Bowden cable. ![]() ![]()
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Pat Henry Targa80 1980SC Targa (Mocha Brown) |
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Quote:
Nice write up and repair. |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Fairhaven Ma.
Posts: 437
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I had a resistor in my fan housing mine is and 86 it controlled the speeds.
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Heck, I’m only 5 not 71!
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In the SC models the fresh air blower housing has a three speed motor controlled by the three speed slider control lever. Also it has in the passenger foot well a bracket with three wire coils for the AC fan motor attached to the evaporator in the smugglers box and it is controlled by a three position switch located in the shifter center console.
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Pat Henry Targa80 1980SC Targa (Mocha Brown) |
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