Brake hard line

[83_Silberpfeil]

In my attempt to replace the rubber brake line (front right/passenger) I rounded off the 11 mm nut on the hard line (see red circle). I'm not hopeful that I can separate that hard/rubber line connection. But, even if I did, I'm not comfortable just keeping the rounded nut to connect to new rubber line.

I've drowned the connection with PB Blaster. Would applying torch heat work?


I've looked into replacing the hard line (see the red line item #02). It is available from our host ~ $100. A bit steep, but I messed up and want to correct it.

QUESTION: where does that line #2 end and connect to part #15 (red rectangle) brake fluid distributor TEE? Is the TEE under the car, in the frunk, in the tunnel? Just want to assess effort, and skill level required.

Thanks!

[mepstein]

Jus make a new hard line or have your regular mechanic make one for you. Duplicating the oem one will be easy. You can measure the line and buy a pre made line that just needs to be bent to the correct shape. Probably under $10. Then have your mechanic bend it with their bending tool or buy a tool at flaps and diy.

[83_Silberpfeil]

I think I found the TEE where the two front hard lines connect into. See fotos.

It is located just above the front sway bar. I think you would need to remove the plate to get acess. I removed the plate a few months ago to replace the fuel pump. so that's why I'm able to see it.

[83_Silberpfeil]

Great suggestion mepstein. I love that idea. But, I'm not sure I'm at that level yet --- to flare the ends properly.

Would the process/procedure look something like this??

1. disconnect existing hard line @ TEE (see fotos in previous post)
2. Plug TEE w a bleeder screw
3. remove hard line --- sacrafice/cut the hard/rubber line connection that I can't remove?
4a. buy premade and bend to fit
4b. buy line making materials and tools and fabircate, then bend
5. re-install, just reverse of 3/2/1.

Originally Posted by mepstein

Jus make a new hard line or have your regular mechanic make one for you. Duplicating the oem one will be easy. You can measure the line and buy a pre made line that just needs to be bent to the correct shape. Probably under $10. Then have your mechanic bend it with their bending tool or buy a tool at flaps and diy.

[HarryD]

A few points.

Be sure you are using flare nut wrenches on the fittings. It is not a bad idea to use a vise grip to clamp the wrench end to keep it from spreading.

If you are not comfortable making your own brake lines, a hydraulic shop that caters to the hot rod crowd can make them for you. Bring the old line and ask them to duplicate it.

Before you remove the line, get a wood dowel and use it to partially depress the brake pedal to keep the fluid in the master cylinder (I wedge mine between the brake pedal and the seat) and most of the lines. Plugging the open end with something will be good as well. A golf tee should work.

[83_Silberpfeil]

Thanks for the pointers Harry.

Flare Nut Wrench --- yeah, I acquired a new specifically for this job. I used flare nut on both the hard (11 mm) and rubber (17 mm) sides. I had a good grip on both, and when seem to start turning, I looked carefully and saw that the 11 mm side was rounding the nut. I tried grabbing the 11 mm nut w vice grips, but it didn't hold and rounded the nut further.

Vice Grips -- Don't understand your suggestion here. Not able to visualize what you " using the grip to camp the wrench. "

Would applying head w butane torch help?

Originally Posted by HarryD

A few points.

Be sure you are using flare nut wrenches on the fittings. It is not a bad idea to use a vise grip to clamp the wrench end to keep it from spreading.

If you are not comfortable making your own brake lines, a hydraulic shop that caters to the hot rod crowd can make them for you. Bring the old line and ask them to duplicate it.

Before you remove the line, get a wood dowel and use it to partially depress the brake pedal to keep the fluid in the master cylinder (I wedge mine between the brake pedal and the seat) and most of the lines. Plugging the open end with something will be good as well. A golf tee should work.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by 83_Silberpfeil

Thanks for the pointers Harry.

...

Vice Grips -- Don't understand your suggestion here. Not able to visualize what you " using the grip to camp the wrench. "

Would applying head w butane torch help?

Use the vice grip to squeeze the jaws of the flare wrench to prevent the jaws from spreading.

Heat may help. I like MAPP Gas as I do not have an OXY-Acetylene setup.

[Ian Comerford]

[QUOTE=83_Silberpfeil;12004522]Thanks for the pointers Harry.

Flare Nut Wrench --- yeah, I acquired a new specifically for this job. I used flare nut on both the hard (11 mm) and rubber (17 mm) sides. I had a good grip on both, and when seem to start turning, I looked carefully and saw that the 11 mm side was rounding the nut. I tried grabbing the 11 mm nut w vice grips, but it didn't hold and rounded the nut further.

I had a similar problem when replacing my master cylinder. The brake spanner (flare nut wrench in your lingo) started rounding off the nut. I borrowed what is known as a flank drive spanner from Snap On which only bears on the centre of the flats on a nut and cannot round off the corners. It took it straight off. I have now bought one for next time.

https://shop.snapon.com/product/Standard-Handle%2C-mm-(Flank-Drive-Plus-Combination)/11-mm-12-Point-Metric-Flank-Drive-Plus-Combination-Wrench/SOEXM11

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by 83_Silberpfeil

Great suggestion mepstein. I love that idea. But, I'm not sure I'm at that level yet --- to flare the ends properly.

Would the process/procedure look something like this??

1. disconnect existing hard line @ TEE (see fotos in previous post)
2. Plug TEE w a bleeder screw
3. remove hard line --- sacrafice/cut the hard/rubber line connection that I can't remove?
4a. buy premade and bend to fit
4b. buy line making materials and tools and fabircate, then bend
5. re-install, just reverse of 3/2/1.

You can buy premade lines in different lengths that already have the nut and flare on each end. You just buy an inexpensive tube bender and duplicate the radius of the existing line. Or have a mechanic/hydraulic shop make you one. $100 for that line is way too much. It can easily happen to any brake hardline in the future.

[PeteKz]

Ditto what everyone else said. Make it yourself. It's easy. It's so easy, that you will kick yourself for even considering paying $100 for a gen-you-wine replacement. You don't even need a tube bender, just your hands and something round like a handrail or PVC drain pipe to bend them around.

You also do not need to bend the lines in as tight a radius as the factory lines--you can open it up a bit, as long as everything follows the original routing and fits. Just go slowly and methodically and test fit as you go. Cut a slightly longer piece than you need, then fit it, then cut off the excess and flare it (remember to put the correct flare nut on first!).

One different recommendation: Do not use steel line. Instead buy the "nickel-copper" line. It is more ductile and bends more easily, and it's rustproof. I have replaced all the hard lines in my 1973 car with this stuff (except the one through the tunnel, which is in excellent condition, and becuase it's a PITA).

[83_Silberpfeil]

Thanks Pete. I've been looking into the lines, and do realize how inexpensive they are to buy a standard straight run w fittings/flare. Even more economical when making your own.

Take a look at my post #3, second foto. I got under the car to check where the front pass side hard line connects into the TEE. It is that line coming out of the TEE making that knarly hair pin turn. It doesn't match the PET diagram on my first post, but that's what I saw when I got under the car today.

That line runs through very tight/crowded paths before existing into the wheel well.

For the moment, I'm thinking of just leaving it, keeping the old rubber line, and put everything back together. Then, revisit this later once I have the parts, or have a pro do it for me.

Originally Posted by PeteKz

Ditto what everyone else said. Make it yourself. It's easy. It's so easy, that you will kick yourself for even considering paying $100 for a gen-you-wine replacement. You don't even need a tube bender, just your hands and something round like a handrail or PVC drain pipe to bend them around.

You also do not need to bend the lines in as tight a radius as the factory lines--you can open it up a bit, as long as everything follows the original routing and fits. Just go slowly and methodically and test fit as you go. Cut a slightly longer piece than you need, then fit it, then cut off the excess and flare it (remember to put the correct flare nut on first!).

One different recommendation: Do not use steel line. Instead buy the "nickel-copper" line. It is more ductile and bends more easily, and it's rustproof. I have replaced all the hard lines in my 1973 car with this stuff (except the one through the tunnel, which is in excellent condition, and becuase it's a PITA).