Noob Brake Question
 

Doing a full brake job myself for the first time. I got these rebuilt calipers here

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/90135290700PMB.htm?pn=901-352-907-00-PMB&SVSVSI=0790&DID=42900

There is a grey middle insert that I noticed were not on my old calipers and are different from the other listed part. Do I need to remove this or is this part of the system?

Also any tips on installing the ss brake lines? I cant get the fittings loose and I can't even get the flared wrench around the hard brake line portion. I also don't have a flared wrench for the flexible side is it required for both or can I use a standard wrench on the fleixble hose side?

What model and type are you working on?

Are you sure you purchased the correct calipers? When I clicked on the link it displayed "This product would not fit your car" (it's recognizing I'm signed in and always defaults to my car in the catalog). The reason I mention this is your signature shows a turbo look, I realize your car is an earlier model but if you have a turbo look wouldn't that mean your car's brakes are also turbo as well since that comes in the turbo look package? Or was it something that was modified by another owner?

As for the brake lines, given your car's age it might be advantageous for you to apply a couple of coats of PB Blaster over the course of a couple days to help loosen up the metal in case it's frozen. If you're 100% certain you're installing the steel braided line you could always cut the rubber hose to get the flared wrench onto the hose end and use a box wrench on the other line connected to the rubber hose. Then you can go about installing the new brake lines. If you don't want to cut the line you could also put some lubricant on rubber hose to get your flared wrench to slip over the rubber casing of the brake line. That should allow you to get a good grip on the connector as well.

You use the flare wrench on the hard line and and a standard wrench on the soft line. If you are going to trash a fitting, make it the one you are throwing away anyway.

You can try PB Blaster to loosen the nut. Failing that, the blue wrench (aka torch) maybe needed. A MAPP gas torch should do the trick.

As far as access, I was fortunate that I have access to a two post lift. If I was on my back, the job would have been much harder.

A picture of your existing brake calipers and the grey item with the new calipers would be helpful.

Thanks.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1624241732.jpg

Here an image of my removed caliper. The product link in my main post has a picture of the new caliper and the part I’m asking about. It’s the grey plastic bit in the middle of the piston.

Good catch about the turbo look bit.

It is not a factory turbo look but instead was done many years ago before it was imported (possibly by kremer?) so it should have stock sc brakes

I would call PMB tomorrow and ask them.

yep thats the plan, was just gonna try to get a jump on it if possible!

Your old caliper has the "innie" pistons; that is, they are hollow on the outside. The photo on the PMB website shows the older version piston that is hollow on the inside with an outer ring and inner circle that contacts the brake pad.

What does PMB say?

Regarding the wrenches, I'd invest in the proper flare wrenches. I'm partial to using the right tool for the task as it helps avoid unnecessary frustration.

Is one superior to the other? I’d be sending mine back to get some credit but if I’m downgrading parts I may reconsider.

Got slammed at work; I’ll call tomorrrow and get back to the car on Thursday. Will report back so the answer will be searchable

I did buy a set of fare wrenches explicitly for this job but the hard line side is stuck to the point that turning the nut turns the whole line. My other issue is with how the line exits the nut I can’t quite get the flare wrench to seat on the nut.

The hard line may need to be replaced. I'm hoping you are referring to the small hard line closest to the caliper? If so, fortunately easy enough to replace if you end up cutting it to get it off.

A tip is to cut the line and then use a 6 point socket to remove the fitting from the caliper or other junction.

You can bend the lines a little bit as well if there is a kink near the fitting preventing you from getting the wrench on there.

The two styles are equivalent and equally functional. Don't concern yourself with what you get. Just because the photo on the website shows one style, what you receive may be the same as what you have.