Narrow Body RSR Style Build
 

So I started this project over 10 years ago after selling my 993 RSR clone. Life, career changes, and finances to finish it have finally sorted them selves out so it's time to get a build thread going again to keep up the motivation as I have been ordering parts like a mad man and working on it every weekend lately. There is now a deadline of having to get it at least painted before I get married or........ it's never going to happen. haha

The 993 was great except for not being street legal, center lock wheels without air tools being a royal pain, and I never bonded with the suspension and steering feedback, motorsports ABS however is pretty awesome.... something I am going to miss a little but it does make you lazy. It was 996 Cup expensive to run and not as fast though. So armed with the knowledge of what I wanted I bought a 1975 911 with a 3.0L and down the slippery slope I went....... again.


Out with the 993.
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In with the '75. Knowing what I know now...... I should have just fixed the front suspension pan rust, bolted in a cage, done some exhaust upgrades and been driving it these past 10 years but there is no turning back now.
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I was running the 911 with POC doing Time Trials at the time..... and after the 993, stock seats, no cage and 3pt belts didn't seem like the greatest idea.
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The Pomona Fairplex Time Trial in 2011 was the last time I drove the car before taking it apart for what was supposed to be a quick cage instal and a few other "while your in there" improvements.

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This "moment" was the final straw that I didn't want to drive it again without a cage.

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Before pulling the motor, went and had a base line dyno to see where I was starting. A whole 167whp!

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I don't even want to remember how many days I spent stripping sound deadening and wire brushing off undercoating.

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Ready to go get a cage!
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Josh at Lucas Fab in Huntington Beach did the cage fabrication.

I will be running coil-overs front and rear and coming from the 993 and being exposed to Cup cars...... chassis stiffness is one thing that is noticeably lacking in early cars. I have always liked the late 80's DTM cars and took that wholistic approach of doing almost a tube fame.

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Driver side seat mounts were modified to accept 996/Boxster seat sliders which are very nice.

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The cage ties into the front suspension mounting points with stub tubes welded to the 3 nut certs on the front mounting point while the front suspension pan was being replaced.

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Hindsight being 20/20 I probably should have put in front camber boxes but now having mocked up all the new suspension, it looks like everything will work out fine.

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I was working with Tyson Schmidt at the time and he helped me weld on some Carrera fenders that came off of Cory M's race car when it went to 993 bodywork. I guess it was foreshadowing that they were off a G50 car.

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Again hindsight being 20/20, I should have made a serious attempt at fitting the Fenn Lane sunroof delete panel before the cage went in but in fitting it afterwards I couldn't get it to line up well enough that wouldn't require a lot of filling and sanding so I sourced a full non-sunroof donor section and after lots of prepping hauled the car up to John Esposito who unpeeled the rain gutter to install it with minimal welding.

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Looks great.
You made the right decision going with the roof replacement instead of the panel.
What are your plans for the motor? 167hp....ha (just joking)

I've drooled over your car for years Doug! Question for you, did you have to move the firewall on your car to fit the V-ram 3.6 or just lower it a little?

If I was smart, I would have kept the V-Ram engine from the 993. Was a decent bit of kit with Super Cup cams and solid rockers and would have saved me a lot of money.

But alas I didn't so I am building a stupid expensive engine that probably won't make as much power. I'm still acquiring parts and want to have most of them before tearing apart the motor but the heads are with Bill at Xtreme right now and once they come back with a known CC, I can order the pistons and cylinders.

Planned Build Spec
3.2L case
3.0L cross drilled crank
Steel intermediate shaft gear
GT3 oil pump
Pankel Ti rods from a 997 3.6 Cup
Custom Mahle 10.5-1 pistons
LN 100mm cylinders with knock sensor bosses and 105mm case registers
930 RR350 alloy casing twin plug heads ported by Xtreme with larger 8mm stem valves 43/39mm ports, AASCO springs
SuperTech head studs
993 Vario Ram intake with TurboKraft injector blocks. Looks like I can bring the intake down 20mm by machining the adapters lower from my mockups tonight. Bill at Extreme is going to machine them to match his head port work
Motec M150 ECU
1 5/8 to 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 stepped 30in primary headers
226mm Fan with Clewett belt drive
No on engine oil cooler
Amber shroud and tin from Sheridan
993 Oil Tank

Things I still need to figure out are rockers, cams, and ignition system.... thinking of going with 993 Super Cup cams or GT2Evo unless I can get a cam guru to give some better guidance. Are the Pauter rockers worth the cost?

Maybe it will make 300 crank, 270whp? My 993 Vram put down 315whp on a 114 octane tune but had a 5.5in triple plate clutch which no doubt helped on an inertia dyno.

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TRE Motorsports installed the Vram in my car and we gave the engine bay a bit more headroom instead of lowering the engine.
So the small shelf below the rear window was raised up about 1/2" if I remember correctly.
Unless you look closely and know what you're looking for, you wouldn't catch it I believe.

My Rothsport Vram with RS cams and upgraded ECU made 310hp and 271 ft-lbs at the crank and only requires premium fuel.

Cool build you've got going here....I'll be watching closely.

Nice build! I look forward to updates.

When the car came back from John's with a slick top, that's when the really time consuming and expensive ideas began to take shape.

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I got some big wheels.

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and having broken the original 2.7L main shaft once with all 167 raging WHP and 205/50/15s.....

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...........and enjoying being able to find 1st gear every time. Scope creep now included a G50 swap. Open diff standard G50-01 compared to a Mag Case 915 with a SC main shaft, Guard LSD, Aluminum side cover, WEVO spray bar and aluminum nose cone is a 35lb increase. Once the G50 has a LSD in it, and billet side cover, it will probably gain a few pounds so call it 40 heavier? This car isn't going to be a light weight.

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The G50 torque to tube is an additional 7lb heavier before any sleeving of the joint so we are now up to ~50lbs gained...... the price of strength I guess...... not to mention an incredible amount of work.

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and while we are at it, lets put in some camber boxes because big wheels and lower then euro ride height, the geometry starts to get less then ideal.

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but I am getting ahead of myself.

About this time I finished my Engineering degree and left the motorsports industry to move into the more conventional job market because benefits, 401Ks, and not traveling 20+ weekends a year starts sounding better as you get older. This led to having to find a new home for the 911 but fortunately I have understanding parents and the 911 went to their house and its own shed.

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And this is where the project sat for a few years while I helped my Dad restore an old derelict boat on the brink of sinking and sail it across the Pacific to Australia. Anyone else into Old Porsche and Sailing?

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After restoration in Niuatoputapu Tonga.

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Boy that took a turn

Sent from my Nokia 7.1 using Tapatalk

A beautiful diversion.

John

Into both very much...Pacific Seacraft 37?
I’m actually roaming sailboat sites now looking for around a 40-50 foot cruiser for our retirement getaway.

I figured the easy way to justify a 911 to my wife was to spend some time shopping for sailboats first (it worked)....

SweetPea is hull number 17 which we believe was the last hull finished by Cruising Consultants before Pacific Seacraft took over the molds. A bit different interior to a Pacific Seacraft being entirely stick built teak but largely the same boat. Built like a tank (and we added some Kevlar to the bow for good measure) and very sea worthy that would click off drama free miles on the windvane. Money no object, a Pacific Seacraft 40 or better yet 44 is on my short list for a world cruiser. The 37 is a bit small inside for anymore than 3 and 2 is better but those 3000 mile passages feel a bit long 4 hours on 4 off for weeks on end. More speed and more crew would make long passages more fun. SweetPea is still sailing around Australia with a young family as her new owners. We picked up a Farr 1104 as a sporty light wind So Cal day sailer as her replacement which also needed a lot of work but that's a story for another thread.

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But back to the Porsche. With sailing over for awhile and being employed again as a desk jockey work continued on the 911.

Started mocking up suspension. Out with the old and in with the also old but a bit more serious. Bilstein RSR struts raised 30mm with a 1.5 degree december (which will cause problems shortly) MODE strut tops and 993 Turbo brakes all wrapped with 500lb-in springs.

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Bilstein RSR rear shocks with Rebel Racing Hardware and some big springs. Going to try the 500lb-in front, 800lb-in rear to start but it might be a little stiff.... we will see. We ended up with 500lb-in rear springs on the 914 I autocross with a similar motion ratio and that car is significantly lighter with less weight on the rear and much smaller tires and no cage so the 800s might just work ok with really good tires. We will see.

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Because of the 8.5in wide front wheels and 245 Hoosier tires...... they need ALL the space in a stock front fender and when you decamber the strut, you loose clearance on the inside so I needed a 10mm spacer to have the tire clear the spring.

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This then obviously led to some clearance problems so out came the base ball bat for some massaging. Some day I will have a car that I am happy with the tires size that will fit in the stock fenders but that day has not come yet.

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It should have a decent stance. At this height I have 1.5in of up travel front and rear before the tires start running into things.... more on that later.

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With that mocked up I decided that fiberglass doors while a LOT lighter are going to be highly impractical (I had them on my 993 also) for anything other then just racing so I got an early door without a door beam and started fitting that around the driver door bars. Took a bit of tweaking but I think I can get there with this door.

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Almost looks like a car again but I will soon fix that with some major surgery to the Torque tube area.

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Super excited you're doing a build thread.
It's been 3 hours since your last post.
Quit messing around at work and share this story!

Glad to see the renewed interest and all the progress you've made Evan!

Work is the only thing that is going to pay for this thing!

Scope creep keeps setting in as now that I'm in this deep....... I am going to be unhappy if it comes out slower then my friend Aaron's 914 I've been driving...... and the 914 is getting pretty fast.

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but here is what I have been working on for WAY too long at this point. What a great project to learn to weld on...... it's only the rear suspension! It's been too many years putting off this project because it would mean towing it somewhere and writing a big check so I put on my big girl pants and cut in. What's the worst that could happen, I have to cut it out later and try again......... or the rear suspension rips off.

As with all great projects, it starts with tearing the car more apart and attacking it with an angle grinder.

These 275/35/18 do look pretty big off the car, maybe I should be a little concerned about the ripping off part.

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Step 1, cut a gaping big hole in the back seats.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/B69CD91E_6520_4C7B_8EF7_561B18FD9B83.jpeg?width=96 0&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="B69CD91E_6520_4C7B_8EF7_561B18FD9B83"/>

and look at how much work you are willing to go though for a couple more inches.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/0A8D4759-1E7F-4C7B-AD40-6A7367266F12.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="0A8D4759-1E7F-4C7B-AD40-6A7367266F12"/>

Step 2, CAD it up because no fabrication is professional grade without a little Cardboard Aided Design.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/410C5916_9E32_4293_BD52_C99896D5DD77.heic?width=96 0&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="410C5916_9E32_4293_BD52_C99896D5DD77"/>

Step 3, build a jig off the factory pickup points.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/CF2063C9_D517_4804_8F06_943E19D834D1.heic?width=96 0&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="CF2063C9_D517_4804_8F06_943E19D834D1"/>

Step 4, figure out the MIG welder has no gas flow and the welds look like bird dirt.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/8F9BD8D9-F6F9-4DED-BFC3-D04373FA539A_1_201_a.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit =bounds" border="0" alt="8F9BD8D9-F6F9-4DED-BFC3-D04373FA539A_1_201_a"/>

Step 5, Rebuild MIG welder gas flow system.

Step 6, Weld some more...... still bird dirt but at least we are getting some penetration.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/E15B7B66-62DE-4C0E-9C31-A6DA4C85FA84.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="E15B7B66-62DE-4C0E-9C31-A6DA4C85FA84"/>

Step 7, do a lot of measuring, say a little prayer and start cutting.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/8952BAA5-5006-463E-892A-6F53145C6D86.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="8952BAA5-5006-463E-892A-6F53145C6D86"/>

Step 8, get some tubing to sleeve the inside of the joint with.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/B7C7E0CC-E70D-4C05-93ED-596E4EA72681.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="B7C7E0CC-E70D-4C05-93ED-596E4EA72681"/>

Step 9, cut the new tube to fit the hole...... preferably centered.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/4FBB9924-7830-4E83-85A3-58CB0B96C655.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="4FBB9924-7830-4E83-85A3-58CB0B96C655"/>

Looking great so far Evan.

This looks fun.

Awesome build. I remember that 993 when it used to reside in San Diego, cool car.

Glad to see builds like this still happening. Backyard shed. Home made jigs.

I am sure you had loads of fun climbing around the cage to cut rear seat pans out.
Next you will be slotting the heel panel to fully circumference weld that torsion tube. Fun part is laying upside down for the underside.

Don't forget to tie the tunnel and torsion tube for bonus points.

It’s almost like you have done this before!

I don’t have high confidence in my welding……. so I went a bit overboard on the reinforcement. Fitting with the rest of the car at this point I guess.

100% Awesome! I'm excited to follow along with your progress.
Best,
Tom

After welding in the G50 torque tube with plug welds to my inner sleeves and a butt weld to the stub of the old tube in the car it was time to mock up the wheel again and see if things still fit.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/D1B69711-9A1B-449C-A3A6-9DAD88F0ABA7.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="D1B69711-9A1B-449C-A3A6-9DAD88F0ABA7"/>

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/9BC0F4FE-01AD-428F-B8D2-154264D5B6A7.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="9BC0F4FE-01AD-428F-B8D2-154264D5B6A7"/>

With the wheel fitting about how it did before and feeling confident, I figured that meant I needed another chance to screw it up!

Step 10, enter fixture number 2!

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/36BE0982-DCFF-42CA-B2F3-368A4B669F2A.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="36BE0982-DCFF-42CA-B2F3-368A4B669F2A"/>

Step 11, mocking up my rough cuts. I kinda guesstimated on the angles but I laid the slider back slightly so that as the pivot point moves up, it moves back a little to maintain the same wheel base.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/3562A987-F997-4142-911D-FC4BE2DDDF88.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="3562A987-F997-4142-911D-FC4BE2DDDF88"/>

and cutting off some perfectly good mounting points. No going back now!

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/816B4ECB-6500-4D5D-ADB1-E53632E1AADB.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="816B4ECB-6500-4D5D-ADB1-E53632E1AADB"/>

One down!

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/BC3265EB-B52A-4B5D-A133-09CBDAB2FC73.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="BC3265EB-B52A-4B5D-A133-09CBDAB2FC73"/>

And the other side!

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/9A17BE8C-CBFD-4791-B25E-0342625FF4CF.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="9A17BE8C-CBFD-4791-B25E-0342625FF4CF"/>

Are we on step 12 now? If some reinforcement is good, more is better! That seems to be the theme here. Call it PTSD from all the cracks I had to have welded up in my 914 auto crossing it on Hoosiers for a few years. I made these closing plates to reinforce the bottom of the box section of the camber box roll center correction thing. I should never need to bring the trailing arm down to the bottom of the range unless I put on Safari suspension some day but I made sure the arms would clear at full droop.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/BC60524D-A42B-4381-9041-403D04ABF604.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="BC60524D-A42B-4381-9041-403D04ABF604"/>

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/DFCED834-9611-4B7D-ABCC-647EB96E27BC.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="DFCED834-9611-4B7D-ABCC-647EB96E27BC"/>

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/21AB9E98-AB83-46CE-BCD3-4205B4D4E0B0.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="21AB9E98-AB83-46CE-BCD3-4205B4D4E0B0"/>

Same here!!!

I recently sold off one of my cars - it was "too nice" to play with and sorta ceased to be any fun for me. Builds like this one and cars that are a little less precious are still out there if you are willing to put in a little work, and WAY more fun than the numbers matching, COA touting, paint meter crowd.

Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing!!!

Whoa whoa whoa.
My car is [mostly] numbers matching and I have a COA...and a thick coat of "paint". :D

Evan, I know the thread is close to real-time. The weekend is upon us! Let's see some progress.

Not quite up to real time Chris but I am getting there.

I am pretty jealous of you guys with garages. Building this thing in a shed with no lights and needing to run a 50ft extension cord every time I need a power tool that isn't cordless relegates me to being a daylight hours weekend warrior...... well that and an at time demanding work schedule.

This unscheduled optional build step to have exploratory surgery to remove a metal splinter that needed 20 stitches also slowed me down for a few weeks. Note to all those watching, sweep up the wire wheel bits off the ground before rolling around under the car again. After all these years one of those finally disappeared in deep enough I couldn't get it out.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/3849128D-F5EA-4F9E-8524-08E1B4EABD6B.jpeg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="3849128D-F5EA-4F9E-8524-08E1B4EABD6B"/>

Back at project overkill, I needed a radius for the back seat sheet metal to make the turn from the vertical to sloped up to the firewall, why not use some 1 1/4" .065 tube. I also added a partial torque tube sleeve to the outside...... because I had some tubing the right size. It will make a nice jack stand pad.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/12819CE1-A8AE-42A0-973B-50C57AFE47E9.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="12819CE1-A8AE-42A0-973B-50C57AFE47E9"/>

.....and I added some landing pads to the camber boxes/roll center correction for tubes to drop down from the shock towers.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/50FFAC54-3CDC-4FDB-B3DB-B8CA6B169849.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="50FFAC54-3CDC-4FDB-B3DB-B8CA6B169849"/>

.....and of course the tubes I wanted to add fouled the heater ducts so those had to go.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/A82142B0-4AE7-4155-AB32-E38114CEB774.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="A82142B0-4AE7-4155-AB32-E38114CEB774"/>

So this bar could go in.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/CFE1F5D4-A6E6-4669-B213-A84FC5135CA5.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="CFE1F5D4-A6E6-4669-B213-A84FC5135CA5"/>

Lots of fun coping tubes with an angle grinder.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/71CEF2F5-DA41-48BD-8F2F-7F03ED32C165.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="71CEF2F5-DA41-48BD-8F2F-7F03ED32C165"/>

And....... for the complete overkill factor maximum triangle creation achieved. The welding could be better but I'm pretty confident nothing is going to fall off now. I'm still blaming PTSD of my 914 and e36 BMW both of which I cracked all the rear suspension mounting points on.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/1486362F-5026-4D5B-8180-073182488D11.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="1486362F-5026-4D5B-8180-073182488D11"/>

I like the n+1 approach to chassis rigidity overkill.

With the trailing arm mounts sorta done, it was time to turn my attention to fitting the ERP 935 spring plates to match.

I should know by now that "bolt on" parts on cars does not imply that they fit, only the attachment method....... and so I now have 30 more hours of grinding, cutting, welding, and stripping under my belt.

Yea for no hidden chassis cracks I guess.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/A2BB8BEB-6718-4EAD-A165-0DBE7FFFA537.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="A2BB8BEB-6718-4EAD-A165-0DBE7FFFA537"/>

but the round part of the torque tube sticks out too far for the bracket to sit flat on the threaded studs. So several hours of grinding got me here to where it would fit.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/7DC7A5F7-7DD0-400A-AE17-56D16BBB50CE.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="7DC7A5F7-7DD0-400A-AE17-56D16BBB50CE"/>

But the weld to the central tube had been ground through so I need to grind that back more and weld the end of the tube back to the car.... and the "while you are in there's" set in.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/8438D5F0-40FD-48C2-B530-9716537D78D9.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="8438D5F0-40FD-48C2-B530-9716537D78D9"/>

It got ugly........ things got warped, lessons were learned, not the least of which is I need to start wearing a real breather when welding on weld thru primer.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/AB53A4D2-A5C0-442F-85B8-6A2073CEF057.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="AB53A4D2-A5C0-442F-85B8-6A2073CEF057"/>

But lots more grinding and a little paint later..... it's not looking soooo bad and things fit!

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/729740B7-DE59-483A-9AC5-B8E0FF43F5E5.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="729740B7-DE59-483A-9AC5-B8E0FF43F5E5"/>

A little undercoating back on there will hide the ugly. Now just repeat on the other side!

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/EE72FE7D-AD13-40F8-9143-58EA06C4548F.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="EE72FE7D-AD13-40F8-9143-58EA06C4548F"/>

And then I started in welding the seat pan back together.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/70C6BC67-BFE5-46CD-8A8A-6571EE3877E9.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="70C6BC67-BFE5-46CD-8A8A-6571EE3877E9"/>

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/BA4224AA-52F8-4DCA-AE3B-783BA544D5EE.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="BA4224AA-52F8-4DCA-AE3B-783BA544D5EE"/>

And that's how things will stay for a few weeks as I'm flying to Germany on Saturday to propose to my Girlfriend. Covid over the last year and a half really hasn't made the long distance thing easier but if we survived that..... I'm taking it as a sign.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/EC0F8513-30D8-4281-9A8C-99B346AF04EB.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="EC0F8513-30D8-4281-9A8C-99B346AF04EB"/>

Congrats on your upcoming proposal. German sports cars & German girls — probably a great combination. Safe travels.

Seeing as I'm off to Germany again for the Holidays, seems like a good time to update what slow progress I managed this fall.

The last trip was a success, she said yes! And now the race is on to get the car at least close to done before we get married.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/C0FE367C-7DA5-44A3-A8E9-13DAABF8C094.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="C0FE367C-7DA5-44A3-A8E9-13DAABF8C094"/>

but back to the car....

I must have 4 solid weekends getting these ERP spring plates fitted. Once finally getting everything to bolt on, I had to dent the chassis quite to bit to get clearance for the toe adjuster nuts to spin freely...... what a pain. I sure hope the raised roll centers help noticeably with squat and roll oversteer because they have added a TON of work.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/649770F4-F166-4DE5-9292-9E8B3652BAB7.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="649770F4-F166-4DE5-9292-9E8B3652BAB7"/>

Now that they fit, off they came again for drilling the old toe adjuster hole for the JWE swaybar.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/5E576AFF-301A-4ECE-B678-0FF4E40AF425.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="5E576AFF-301A-4ECE-B678-0FF4E40AF425"/>

and just like that it is a roller again!!!......... if but temporarily. Bonus news, the wheels are pointing the right direction with the ability to get some toe in still! LOTS of sweeping of the shed and vacuuming out of the car after nearly a year's worth of grinding, cutting, and welding dust.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/96F07FBD-693F-4B31-9AB4-1C41B21C38E3.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="96F07FBD-693F-4B31-9AB4-1C41B21C38E3"/>

In order to fit the new swaybar mounts, I mocked up the gearbox and after all this work, I am happy the G50/01 also fits! Knowing what I know now, I don't know as I would do a torque tube swap again. There is a reason SBH G50s are a thing but I wanted to be able to use all GT3 clutch and flywheel parts and I think I have achieved that other then come to find out modifications to the bell housing will be required to fit the late model starter..... more on that to come.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/334842B5-BC97-4B08-A34B-E8FAB8EF6AD6.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="334842B5-BC97-4B08-A34B-E8FAB8EF6AD6"/>

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/4D518625-570C-4797-9599-8A0AB49B4025.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="4D518625-570C-4797-9599-8A0AB49B4025"/>

Using the JWE high clearance swaybar mounts I tucked everything up as high as I could with the 20mm bar. If I end up going bigger later, I can shim up the gearbox or down the swaybar. Clearance is tight but it is tucked up behind the trans crossmember.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/6FBFFD35-AF0A-4FBA-BBD4-7FEBF2DA9284.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="6FBFFD35-AF0A-4FBA-BBD4-7FEBF2DA9284"/>

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/6600CA6C-F9F6-4D79-BED5-547A075476A6.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="6600CA6C-F9F6-4D79-BED5-547A075476A6"/>

With that job done...... the trans will go off to Tyson of ProMotorsports for a checkover and LSD instal. I don't think I want that aggressive of a lockup as I would like the car to still work at Autocross. We will have to see what option Matt at Guard has, maybe some 993 ramp angles?

And now onto my next daft plan because I seem to like to make everything difficult. My headers like to occupy the same space as the factory S oil line and I need to do what I can to offset the beastly weight of the G50 so enter the 993 oil tank.... or rather 2 of them. One for me to play with and one that is out with a local fabricator to braze on AN-16 bungs on as many outlets as he can. A bit of an experiment to see how that goes.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/E109F06D-8489-4927-A642-23B4A859ADD4.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="E109F06D-8489-4927-A642-23B4A859ADD4"/>

The 993 tank fits in an early car well...... the pipe routing just becomes an issue. I think I have a good plan that involves a 993 tank with a 964 oil filter console, a 911 thermostat, custom hardline on the passenger floor, and modifying the oil tank to fill though the passenger door jam... but we will see. LOT more fabrication to come I am sure.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/ED5035E6-7713-4511-A3F1-90B0E4CE015A.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="ED5035E6-7713-4511-A3F1-90B0E4CE015A"/>

Awesome stuff, can't wait to see more!!!

Progress has been slow but it has been happening!

Vertical part of the rear seats are back together

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/597BDFC8-B0E4-49C0-8199-73E4D4C348EF.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="597BDFC8-B0E4-49C0-8199-73E4D4C348EF"/>

Bought a tubing bender for hard the oil line fabrication and reinforcing the front inner fender area similar to 964/993 and 911 Targa reinforcements

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/0E150577-6D5C-4212-AC19-E9CAD8DDDDF4.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="0E150577-6D5C-4212-AC19-E9CAD8DDDDF4"/>

Still thinking I will weld some sheet metal between the reinforcement with some dimple die holes

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/7958DF04-47DC-41ED-9C1C-154F746D6640.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="7958DF04-47DC-41ED-9C1C-154F746D6640"/>

Started mocking up the oil system for AN16.... I think the oil filter will stay here but the thermostat I think will end up in the smugglers box. Not a lot of room once all the giant AN16 lines are in there. I went with a 911 thermostat and a 964 oil filter console as there isn't much aftermarket setup for AN16 fittings and I like the pressure release circuit in the stock thermostat.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/1A2AFEBD-4F0E-48E3-A3A4-B1E062327FC3.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="1A2AFEBD-4F0E-48E3-A3A4-B1E062327FC3"/>

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/AF2A42AB-1AE7-4BE4-BBE2-DBAD0B623863.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="AF2A42AB-1AE7-4BE4-BBE2-DBAD0B623863"/>

Not that I have been particularly productive the last few months but I got some motivation today with getting my heads back from Bill at Xtreme after their extended Florida vacation.

Not cheap and a long wait but this is some mechanical art.

930 RR350 castings

42mm intake ports
39mm exhaust
53mm, 8mm stem Stainless intake valves
42.5mm, 8mm stem Inconel exhaust valves
AASCO springs and Titanium retainers
And of course twin plug

These aught to help make some decent power.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1654223323.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1654223387.jpg

Things of beauty those heads.

Working on this thing, I sure am tempted to buy a lot of tools. One day I will have a lathe, mill, and bandsaw at home but until then, it's hand tools.

Got one of the closing plates for my fender well reinforcements made. Dimple dies make everything look better!

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/F7E51EC6-2977-4785-9B36-F5916D12B1E8.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="F7E51EC6-2977-4785-9B36-F5916D12B1E8"/>

Rear swaybar "nuts" for the JWE high clearance mounts

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/A95032BF-049A-4935-92DF-0A6E51477B16.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="A95032BF-049A-4935-92DF-0A6E51477B16"/>

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/E08D8839-7C07-414A-8951-C878B2BD8F11.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="E08D8839-7C07-414A-8951-C878B2BD8F11"/>

Got those knocked out so I could mount up the rear swaybar again to check for clearance with the proposed oil filter location/bracket. Anyone have a good reason why this is a bad place to put the oil filter? It clears all the suspension in full bump and droop, comes off fairly easily, should be reasonably well protected there, it's low, and running a 993 oil tank, space is somewhat limited without mounting it like a 964 which seems like running oil 3 sides of a square for no good reason.

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/0BA5C225-3BA6-4CC2-A7D1-97986CA3E813.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="0BA5C225-3BA6-4CC2-A7D1-97986CA3E813"/>

<img src="https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/u385/EvanFullerton/96B4C959-BD62-4016-94F4-A5E4854B65F5.jpeg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds" border="0" alt="96B4C959-BD62-4016-94F4-A5E4854B65F5"/>

Evan,
That's where my fuel filter is.
The only caveat I have to share is that it gets dirtier there than you'd expect.
You have to clean up the area before you pull the filter. Otherwise, you encourage detritus to fall into the fresh filter as you install it.

That’s, good feedback Chris. Hadn’t considered that aspect of it.

Really tempted to buy that GT3 Cup Motor on BAT today…….. that would solve my where to mount the oil filter and thermostat dilemma real quick. Haha.