Suspension panel replacement:

rickeolis · 05-21-2003, 12:32 PM

This has been a long time coming. From the time I cut the rusty panels out until now has been over a year, so I am very happy to have it done!

I got the new panels from Wayne and the boys, and had a guy from my shop (John Deere) come out to weld them in. Then I used fiberglass (kitty hair) to fill in the gaps and shape things back in. Then primer and paint (the finished pic looks purple, but it's jet black.)

Now just to clean the gas tank up and paint it, and put it back in. I am still in the works of converting to a carb'd 2.7, so I won't be on the road for a while yet, but at least one big project is done...
I used the fiberglass to nurse some rusty spots around the car as well.

rickeolis · 05-22-2003, 12:07 PM

Is there someone else who has done this that I can ask a couple quick questions to?

Rot 911 · 05-22-2003, 12:22 PM

I have and there are several threads on here about replacing the front suspension pan.

jpnovak · 05-22-2003, 12:25 PM

I have done 4 of them now. Fire away with the questions.

Jamie

Tim Walsh · Tim Walsh's Garage

As one of jamie's gopher's for one of them I have to say he knows what he's doing.

rickeolis · 05-22-2003, 12:46 PM

I used two points of reference to align the new panels; one was the curve on both sides of the inner fenderwell, and the other was the front mount for the a-arm. It seems to fit fine, but other than a good alignment job A.S.A.P. what should I be concerned with?
Also, as you can see, I used fiberglass to fill in the gaps where the rust had eaten away at the fenderwell, after you had put some miles on the car after the job, did you find some refixes needed?
I used new hard bushings that I got from Pelican too.

jpnovak · 05-22-2003, 12:54 PM

I don't think that I would have filled the corners with fiberglass but the fit should be OK. The pan will naturally want to rest in the correct location. I usually check the Front/back measurements and cross measurements to make sure it is square with the rear susp. pickups.

I have done combinations of fabrication and cut outs to repair the corners under the battery box. The impact bumper cars section will weld right in place provided you trim correctly. You have to be careful with that section. The lateral gas tank support forms a box section along the side of the car up front. It then ties into the gas tank support that you replaced. All of these parts work together to make sure the front suspension acts correctly and the front of the A-arms don't move. you may want to consider removing the fiberglass and reforming that section.

Other than that, nothing to worry about. Welds look good and show good heat penetration.

REmember to rust proof everything. I recommend POR 15. don't forget to spray down inside the box sections.

Jamie

rickeolis · 05-22-2003, 02:15 PM

Thanks Jamie,
I see from your posted pics what you are talking about with the box forming a continuous seam along the gas tank support, especially on the driver's side. If I had seen that earlier, I would have done the same, but I was generous with the fiberglass in those areas, so after I get it out on the road for a while, I'll see if there is a need to redo that.
The same goes for the two spots that you told me about in the corners. Those do not take stress, but I will need to keep my eyes on them just in case, thanks-

nick-moss · nick-moss's Garage

I have done this recently. Click on the image for more