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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 14
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Door stop replacement question
My driver's door is making the dreaded clicking sound. I've already swapped pins from the passenger side which doesn't make the clicking sound and the problem still exists...which makes me think the pin isn't the problem.
So if I replace the door stop, do I have to take the door off? What are the basic steps involved in this repair assuming no welding is necessary. It's an 88 911 with 73k miles on it. Thanks in advance |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,414
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replace the pin with a 6mm bolt and nylock nut. tighten until it binds the joint enough to stop the popping. retighten later as needed.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 14
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Update
Tried this recommendation. While it didn't totally make it go away it definitely helped. Not bad for a 5 minute job.
I bought a few different screws and here's what worked best. Menards Part# 81673 6mm x 25mm metric socket head cap screw. Allen wrench made it easier to tighten than the other bolts. The black was much more stock looking than the silver too…if that matters to you. I probably could have gone down to 20mm or so for a perfect fit but they didn't have it. Neither Home Depot nor Menards had any 6mm nylon bolts….so I just put some Loctite thread locker blue 242 on a standard 6mm nut. Cranked it down tight and that's it. It's better but not fixed. So now what...how do I replace the door stop? |
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Registered
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The nylock nut is used so that it will remain under the desired tension to the point of reducing or eliminating the clicking. If you used blue loctite, you will have to reapply each time you retension the nut, but it is still not as desireable as using a nylock nut.
You might try using the search function. The door stop issue has been recirculated many times over, with various remedies and recommendations. Personally, John's fix is one of the best and quickest to accomplish. P.S. Lowes has a much better selection of fasteners, with mom n pop hardware stores usually stocking an even greater selection. If you cant find what you need, you can always google McMaster-Carr. Their selection is almost endless. HTH
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If it flows, it goes. If its smooth, it moves. Any questions? 96 993 C2 (Current) 87 911 Factory Turbo-Look Cab (Sold) 85 911 Factory Turbo-Look Targa (Gone) Last edited by Nine9six; 12-03-2011 at 04:31 PM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Dullsville
Posts: 1,266
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For an early car - Remove the door panel. You can get the two bolts that hold the stop from the outside after you take the pin loose, but the doorstop has to be inserted from inside the door.
I don't think a later car is different, but don't know for sure.
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David G PCA '72 S/T '74 Euro Carrera '95 RS --SOLD '77 930 Steel Slantnose "Wedgie" '57 Speedster planter Breeding family of Volvo/ BMW Wife + kid mobiles 'Rib-Breaker' '01 CRG 125 shifter kart Aprilia RS50-weedeater with fairing |
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Registered
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Time to update with my issue…..early stop with springs
Ready to install rebuilt stop but the arm is in a position not allowing installation? The arm is very rigid and doesn’t want to change position….how to move arm ? Thanks for assistance
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Gold71 |
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