1977 911s Emissions Air Pump Delete

[jma0506]

Hi All,

I have a '77 911s Targa with all the emissions parts still on the car. I am planning on taking it all off this weekend and wanted to see if 1) anyone had any words of wisdom before doing so and 2) if anyone knows what the plugs for the air injectors should be torqued to.

Thanks!

[Flat6pac]

I believe the air injection holes are 10 mm, fine thread.
Just tight with lock tite and don’t worry
Bruce

[john walker's workshop]

I use 1/8" brass hex head pipe plugs. thread pitch is pretty much the same. Being a taper thread, they bind as designed and don't come out. The hex head lets you tighten them properly as opposed to an allen head.

[jma0506]

great, thanks Bruce and John!

[Tommy Z]

Please keep us updated. I’m curious about how difficult it will be for you to get the injectors out. I’d like to do this on my 79’ and I have the plugs all ready to go but hesitate out of fear of getting stuck unable to remove one.

[jma0506]

Will do Tommy Z. I'm currently soaking everything in PB, but it's looking pretty gnarly so fingers crossed it all comes off without issue!

[Mark Salvetti]

Originally Posted by Tommy Z

Please keep us updated. I’m curious about how difficult it will be for you to get the injectors out. I’d like to do this on my 79’ and I have the plugs all ready to go but hesitate out of fear of getting stuck unable to remove one.

I was shocked that the injectors in my 1979 just unscrewed with no drama. Very easy. They looked pretty bad too.

Mark

[jma0506]

@TommyZ - to echo Mark's comment after doing 2 rounds of PB and letting it sit for a few days it all came off surprisingly easy and shouldn't take you more than an hour or so to get it all off and plugged up. It's nice to free up some space around the engine as well.

One question for those who have done this - What have you done with the case studs? Can they be removed? Do you just throw a spacer on it to cover up most of the threads?

[jma0506]

So having removed the blower pump and plumbing, I went to restart the car and it was struggling to start / backfiring - the car did not start. I had some issues cold starting though never had any backfiring issues. Any chance the air/fuel mixture needs readjusting now that the emissions stuff has all been removed?

[Mark Salvetti]

Originally Posted by jma0506

So having removed the blower pump and plumbing, I went to restart the car and it was struggling to start / backfiring - the car did not start. I had some issues cold starting though never had any backfiring issues. Any chance the air/fuel mixture needs readjusting now that the emissions stuff has all been removed?

I don't think that should be necessary. Did you plug the vacuum line to the air pump valve? Also check for other loose wires or vacuum lines you may have accidentally disconnected.

Mark

[Mark Salvetti]

Originally Posted by jma0506

One question for those who have done this - What have you done with the case studs? Can they be removed? Do you just throw a spacer on it to cover up most of the threads?

I guess the correct way is to replace them with studs of the proper length. I think that is M8x42 (999-062-052-0Y-OEM). Might be tough to get a stud remover on the bottom one with the sheet metal in the way.

You also want to plug that hole so you don't short-circuit engine cooling air. I riveted an aluminum plate over the hole, you might also be able to find some kind of expandable plug to fit.

Mark

[jma0506]

Thanks Mark!

I am definitely going to pick up the proper length case studs - for now I'm using a bunch of M8 washers temporarily.

Also good to know about that hole as I was going to leave it open, but I will pick up some plating to cover it and rivnut or screw it in to close it up.

As for the vacuum line, I ended up pulling all the piping connected to the air injectors under the car and plugging the air injector ports as well. I'll double check that they're all sealed up but the only line I saw going from the smog pump was to the check valve above the exhaust.