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Issue With Engine Trunk Pop Open
I am the original owner of a special order 1984 Carrera Coupe with Whale Tail. When I pull open the engine trunk it will unlock, but not spring open enough without using a second hand to lift the trunk, or it will relock.
I do need new rear struts (replaced many times) and am considering the "forever" mechanical Rennline locking struts, but, Do the original hydraulic struts give any lifting or springing force that helps the trunk pin spring to lift the trunk from the latch, or is the spring in the trunk latch plunger the issue, as that appears to be the logical part that lifts the plunger from the bottom lock? If the spring has lost its ability to lift, is it possible to only find a spring replacement? |
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Runnin on empty
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Adjust the spring. It should have a slot on the end and lock nut.
Hinge struts act to keep the lid raised. Some dry grease or accepted lubricant applied to the latch will help as well. Also make sure your release cable is moving freely ![]()
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'74 911, Steel Wide Body Hotrod, 3.0, Jenvey ITB’s, AEM Infinity, KW V3's, Eibach Sways, JWest shifter and other stuff. https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1006126-midi-modded-bumpers-led-headlight-manifold.html |
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You can adjust the spring "tightness" with a screwdriver to tighten the rebound..first make sure you have the latch centered (visual test or place tape over hole and lipstick on the latch point).
I have mechanical struts and after adjusting all is good (resolved same issue as you describe) |
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Thanks for your response! I have already adjusted the spring and centered the plunger, but the trunk will not rebound. If the plunger is adjusted to the point where the spring gets compressed, the plunger will not go deep enough to latch. If the plunger goes to the point where I cannot feel the screw end (as far as it will go without the danger of it falling out, it seems to make no difference, as there is no automatic rebound.
I'll next try to recenter the plunger with screw slot to see if its shaft impedes the action of the rebound spring. |
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If I remember correctly the spring tension adjustment is separate from the stem. I have an early whale tail. But, it has been a few years since needed to adjust. Just take it slowly it is possible to not be able to unlatch your lid. Some users go as far as to remove the grill before adjusting in case of this.
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'74 911, Steel Wide Body Hotrod, 3.0, Jenvey ITB’s, AEM Infinity, KW V3's, Eibach Sways, JWest shifter and other stuff. https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1006126-midi-modded-bumpers-led-headlight-manifold.html |
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I forgot to mention i installed a new stronger spring (home depot McGyver) so have length to adjust and get higher tension
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adjust as well the the 2 rubber stops on each corner..very important...
Ivan these https://cdn.rosepassion.com/99970303650-p70692-rubber-stop-photo-70692-0-webP70692.jpg?w=600&h=400&format=jpg-90
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1985 911 with original 501 761 miles...807 506 km "The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein. |
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Ivan is bang on, seen several times where rubber stops were too extended and affected closure
good catch Ivan |
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Another quick tip when fiddling with the rear latch: tape a piece of aluminum foil (right from the kitchen!) over the latch receiver. Then, when you gently lower the deck lid to check alignment, the slightest touch will "mark" the foil precisely. I found this way to be much more precise than using tape. Use a fresh piece of foil each alignment test.
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Maverick Region PCA, Fort Worth/Dallas area 1987 911 Coupe, Black M491 3.4 // Turbo-Look Registry # 1249 1977 911 Coupe, Metallic Sienna (I think!)/Lobster SOLD 1982 924 White, SOLD long ago 1966 912 Red, SOLD, totaled a week later by its new owner |
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My engine lid would pop open regularly when going around a corner at anything more than low intensity. I tried all of the above to no avail. The above suggestions might work…however, what fixed it for me was an adjustment of the release cable tension. The release mechanism is designed to automatically release if the cable snaps. If the tension is not correct and you hit a curve or corner intensively the mechanism “thinks” the cable has snapped and releases the catch. You may be able to achieve a solution by releasing the locknut on the cable then pulling the cable to take up any slack. Retighten the locknut and test. The key is to have minimal play in the cable tension setting.
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1978 Targa - 1980 3.0; Carrera intake; Megasquirt 2; EDIS ignition; 22/28 mm torsion bars and late Carrera sway bars; Carrera front brakes. Targa top rebuild in 2017. Suspension rebuild in 2019. Needs new paint and interior carpets. |
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Lithium grease solved my issues with the front and rear latches...
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Thanks everyone!!!!! I sprayed Teflon dry lubricant on the latch, after making sure it was centered properly, and it allows me one handed opening! I also think that replacing the spring will give the lift needed to make the release reliable, as 37+ years may have weakened it. NOW, to find a replacement spring!!!
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no need to replace the spring..it is fine just align it lube it wit proper lubrication and you will be fine..do not waste time looking for spring...i have never seen them going bad.......
Ivan
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1985 911 with original 501 761 miles...807 506 km "The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein. |
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trunk , trunk latch , trunk lock |