Removing an oil line

[Synchromesh]

I have an '87 coupe with a 3.6 conversion. Trying to remove the oil line to put back an original 3.2 exhaust with a cat on it as it won't pass SMOG otherwise.

I removed the oil line on the thermostat part (man, that was a pain!) but I'm stuck on the engine side. There's 2 nuts, a 36mm and a 32mm. I can get to the big one but the small one is stuck between an oil tube and the drain plug. After making some attempts at it I think I bent the oil pickup tube a bit (pic below).

So questions are:
1. is that oil tube toast and will I need to install the collapsible one instead? I doesn't seem to be badly damaged, just bent
2. any suggestions on how to remove the rest of the oil line? Only thing I can think of is to cut the line at nut, remove the entire assembly and loosen it separate from the car but I hate cutting a perfectly good line like that

Thanks in advance.

[Classic 911]

You can use a crowfoot:

[Tea Tray]

Try a 12 point crows foot wrench. At least that’s what we called them. Maybe consider buying 2 so you can customize/grind them to suit.
In addition, I’ve cut up box end wrenches and welded a socket to it for odd situations.

[ian c2]

The way that nut is rounded off it looks like you are tightening it .

[john walker's workshop]

I generally use an air hammer and bip the nut a few times in the off direction.

[Synchromesh]

I have a 36mm crowfoot for the big nut. It worked just fine on the remaining oil line parts. The issue is the small nut because it's jammed between things, it's very hard to get to and hold steadily. So is the oil pickup tube ok still?

[john walker's workshop]

You don't need to hold the inner nut with the air hammer method. Pointed bit, just below one of the points on the nut, bip, bip.

[Synchromesh]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

You don't need to hold the inner nut with the air hammer method. Pointed bit, just below one of the points on the nut, bip, bip.

Can you please elaborate about this method a bit? Also, I don't have such a hammer so is there a substitute?

[safe]

There isn't big issue if the adaptor (small nut) backs out with the line, I think it has happened to me. Clean it carefully and loctite in in place, red loctite.

[mike sampsel]

Originally Posted by Synchromesh

Can you please elaborate about this method a bit? Also, I don't have such a hammer so is there a substitute?

With an air hammer on your compressor you can start the nut to move. The chisel on the air hammer jumps out at the nut striking it loose. Dremel could be used with care to cut the nut too, (maybe just a tad, to give your hammer a trench)
The crows foot above and a 2 ft breaker bar would probably get it. Then red loctite on the inner nut if it comes off. Not clear to me the crows foot will fit between the nut and the oil return tube? So there is that too.

I did same (air chisel) on my oil line to get it off at my crossover pipe. Was not worried about saving the nut as new lines were going on. I’m not as experienced as John so my nut got a bit buggered with my hammer and skill.

If you are going to a new line, you can carefully dremel the nut (90 degree cut to the threads) it’ll come off easy then. I’ve cut the nuts to my oil cooler this way, then they come off easy (you can squirt lube in the cut).

Again depends on saving the line. Your tools etc. suspect air chisel is pretty cheap if you have a compressor. If not ….

[Flat6pac]

I wouldn’t use the air hammer on magnesium because the metal is too brittle and will break with impact.
Bruce

[proporsche]

as Bruce said be careful with air hammer...the tube is fine so far you can always replace it if you slip again.One thing is there a alu washer on the 32 fitting at all?Plus on the 32 use 32mm socket and a bar ....
Ivan

[john walker's workshop]

The nut ain't magnesium and you don't need to wail on it. Whatever....

[Synchromesh]

Originally Posted by safe

There isn't big issue if the adaptor (small nut) backs out with the line, I think it has happened to me. Clean it carefully and loctite in in place, red loctite.

If it was that easy I wouldn't have posted a thread. The line attached to it is bent (by design) and there's no way to spin it 360 degrees because it will hit the engine block. Hence the option of cutting it off near the big nut.

[proporsche]

can wee see the 36 wrench you are using?
ivan

[mike sampsel]

You really do not need to get at the small nut though right? If you use air hammer, just the big nut comes loose. If you use 36 mm and both move, you can use red loctite on the one on the engine.

[proporsche]

well.sometimes there is a problem..trying the move the nut the 32 fitting will move -that is PITA..hopefully not OP problem..
Using an air hammer is ok if you know the tool if you do not you might ended up in the oil return tube or higher.I think the OP said he does not have it.

Ivan

[mike sampsel]

Originally Posted by proporsche

well.sometimes there is a problem..trying the move the nut the 32 fitting will move -that is PITA..hopefully not OP problem..
Using an air hammer is ok if you know the tool if you do not you might ended up in the oil return tube or higher.I think the OP said he does not have it.

Ivan

Ivan, Right, he does not, but if he has a compressor, I bet an air hammer is available for not too much. Cheaper than taking it to a pro . Air chisel run 22$ and up.

[Synchromesh]

Sadly I *am* at the point where both nuts are spinning together. Also, I do not have an air compressor. I live in the city and work in my own garage so while I do have some tools the storage space is very limited.

The 36MM I'm using is just a basic crowfoot open box 6 point I bought on Amazon, nothing special. It worked very well on the other nuts of this oil line but that 32MM nut is making things complicated.

[proporsche]

synchr..that is what i `ve expected..unfortunately..that the 32 is spinning... are you going to install the regular oil line which goes to the front of the engine and ends under the no.4 cylinder?You have 964 engine in it right? Just do not know your set up.i do have a used oil line from the pump to the tank ..you can have it for free..but i do not know if it will fit?

Ivan

to remove the 36 ..at this point remove the oil return tube-get one collapsible-then you can use 32 open wrench ...just an idea before you cut the oil line at the 36 nut