![]() |
Engine lid latch tips?
Hi guys, I swapped my engine lid and am in the process of trying to install the latch without getting locked out of the engine bay. I tried a search and found a lot of horror stories associated with a bad installation, but not really anything responsive to the right way to make sure the latch is aligned before closing. Is it just a matter of making sure the post is centered in the hole before closing? What about the depth of the post - I'm assuming too much post is worse than not enough insofar as test fitting is concerned?
Thanks for the help and sorry if I missed a thread in searching. |
what i do is this.
once you have all installed put on the latch..the receiving part is fixed ,so loosen the 10mm head bolts on the lid and close it but not all the way just before the click, lift it a little and tighten those 2 bolts.This way you know it is aligned against the receiving female part latch..and of course lube it all. make sure your rubber on each end of the lid are there,they serve as back pressure for the opening the lid.. I hope this helps Ivan |
I used some silicone putty at the receiver portion [lower] of the latch. Spread it around so you can ascertain where the top plunger is mating with the lower portion. Make necessary adjustments for best fit.
kgl |
Best tip I've heard is to remove the grill first. That way if you get it stuck, locked, you can reach in and adjust
|
Remove the grill .
Put masking tape over latch , and a little blob of nail-polish on spike . Lower down slowly until you fell you’ve hit the masking tape . Repeat until you are central . |
i do not think you have to remove the grill at all ..at least i have never had to in 38 years;-)working on these beasts...remove the upper piece adjust your lid so it is where is supposed to be,attach the upper male part and as i said above...
Ivan |
Thanks, guys!
I think I’ve got it lined up correctly as it will close and latch, and when I pull the lever it will pop open. The issue I’m having (thats somewhat terrifying) is getting the lid open after it pops back up. It just doesn’t want to come out of the lower latch. I eventually got it open after putting a pair of vice grips on the door jamb pull, but any thoughts? Is it a fine adjustment issue for the upper latch? Front to back or depth of pin? Does it just need extra grease? There are also adjustable depth rubber bumpers at either side - I had assumed these were just for setting body lines correctly but any interplay with lid opening? Thanks! |
yes it is an adjustment on top. The 27mm nut you have to loosen it and the pin has a slat for screwdriver. But you also have to adjust the 2 rubber stops on each end, these will help the hood to pup up...
Ivan |
well..? if you do some search even here and have the hood aligned properly there will be no drama ;-) quite simple adjustments
Ivan maybe i`ll do a video about the adjustments.... |
Thanks, Ivan - I would subscribe!
I think I'm thinking about this correctly, but the rubber stops should maybe be extended more (to provide more back pressure/spring) and the pin on the top latch should be recessed more/screwed in (so it fully clears when the latch is released)? |
ye something like that the rubber works like back press. the pin play with the adjustments 1st make it longer so you will see how it works..by now you have most likely everything centered so no worries about getting stuck.
Ivan Just remember the bottom latch should be adjusted not to tight not too loose it works like this if the cable for some reason breaks it will open and release the upper pin... |
Make sure there's some lithium grease on the plunger and the latch. That was the fix for me when dealing with the failure to fully release.
|
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:47 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website