Impossible to insert Shifter Rod in bushing!

[Dixie Sledge]

I give up...PORSCHE WINS.* I did the two-piece Shifter Bushing replacement*task on my 1987 G50 911 Coupe.* Now, it's time to reinstall the Shifter Bracket in the forward tunnel.* HOWEVER..with the Shifter ROD all the way to the rear most point of its travel (in 4th gear), the front end of the rod is still too far forward to allow it to enter the mouth of bushing...and, yes, the "cut-out" in the bushing is docked to the 6 o'clock position....not the 12 o'clock as shown in the drawings.* SO...no big deal I'll temporarily remove the rubber dampener pad back*at the Coupler...enough*to gain 1 cm of movement to the rear...enough to allow the rod to enter its bushing up front.* But NO said rubber pad is Factory RIVETED to the Coupler plate,* I GIVE UP.* Honestly, I see no way to ever accomplish this repair. (A shop told me the rear coupler arm would have to be disconnected back at the transmission (!) in order to gain any movement of the shifter rod!). This is the LOUSIEST design I've ever seen for something that should be so simple.* HELP...HELP

[aj88cab]

It's doable...here is the trick.

G-50 Shifter reinstall question

Good luck!

[megerian]

Also this - read it completely from beginning to end

Shifter bushing question

[Dixie Sledge]

IMPOSSIBLE to insert SHIFTER ROD into BUSHING. THANK YOU to both gentleman for your reply. I appreciate that very much. However, I found and studied both of your previous posts on this matter a week ago. I've tried all the tricks: lifting the rod with a string in hopes of a better angle; inserting the Shifter housing into the tunnel at an angle to better facilitate insertion; pushing the rod to the rear as hard as possible at the Coupler in an effort to squeeze out one last MM of travel; etc., etc. I'm a reasonably intelligent guy, but I see NO way to complete this repair. It will NOT FIT.

[porschyard]

It can and has been done 1000’s of times by everyone from people with zero mechanical experience to professional mechanics. All G50 and G50/50 cars experience this type of failure at some point, some multiple times over the span of ownership. I can not even remember how many I have done over the past 30+ plus years but it would number in the 100’s. Yes some can be a real challenge and can be very frustrating while others go together very easy and some somewhere in between the two extremes. Of all the G50 cars I have done I had only one that I had to remove the shift coupler to get enough clearance to get the rod back up in to the bushing, that was one out of many. Some went together very easy and some we’re a Beitch but it can be done. Dumb question are you disconnecting the shift rod from the coupler and moving trans into gear to get as much room as possible ? If you have tried that without success then remove the coupler and that will give you the maximum clearance to reinstall the shift rod.

[Dixie Sledge]

THANK YOU 'poschyard' for your reply. All jokes aside (This stopped being funny a week ago.), maybe my '87 is the one-of-one thousand cars you speak of. The answer to the first question is NO, I haven't removed the Rod from the Coupler, although it is in 4rd gear as far to the rear as it will physically move. What did dawn on me three days ago was to remove the thick rubber anti-vibration block from the coupler. BUT, it took only a second to realize that while only two bolts are involved, this rubber block is Factory RIVETED in place. A 'shop' told me the only alternative would be to somehow disconnect the Coupler arm from the transmission itself from under the car! If that's the case, it's way beyond my pay grade. BUT, this may in fact be the last resort you speak of, if I correctly understand your last statement.

[john walker's workshop]

Maybe take the bolt out of the coupler, and wiggle the coupler deeper past the bolt hole?

[sky1jord]

I feel your pain, having spent a full week trying to figure it out, even with all the previously posted tips at my disposal. My solution was to cut the notch open wider with an xActo knife (the bushing is pretty soft plastic). Looked to me like no mechanical integrity would be lost, as the flange doesn't touch or seem to support anything. It may be a little shade-tree, but after 10,000 miles, it's working fine and nicely hidden away.

[RobFrost]

Your mistake was to attempt any job at all on a 911, without first removing the engine.

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[Flojo]

haha (sorry)

[RSTarga]

I seem to recall heating it up with either a heat gun or boiling it before insertion and some silicone grease.

[Dixie Sledge]

A BIG THANKS to all of you that responded in an effort to help me resolve this problem...

[john walker's workshop]

What solved it?

[Dixie Sledge]

JOHN WALKER...I admire your optimism. HOWEVER...it ain't fixed. I closed the garage and just walked away. I've tried everything my skill-level will allow. I have no idea what Plan 'B' is. Thanks though for asking.