Attaching engine yoke - minimum component removal?
 

Hi Pelicans! Happy Holidays.

I've got my engine on a lift table. I am ready to attach my 5-arm yoke, just so I can easily get the engine loaded into my van and drive to my mechanic. I removed the engine tin on the 1-2-3 side of the engine, and so the base of the yoke does contact with the engine case at the top, but it seems like the oil cross-over line is blocking the base of the yoke from mounting flush to the engine case at the bottom. I have SSIs on my engine.

Can I use some spacers on both of the studs to mount the yoke to give clearance from the oil line, or does the mount need to be flush to the case? Like I said, I only need the engine on the yoke long enough to get in the van, but not looking to bugger up the studs in the process. Do I have to therefore remove the cross-over line? Looking to remove only the minimum of components.

Thanks, Pelicans!

i just put my 3.2 with SSI's on the yoke a few days ago and didn't have any issues with the crossover line. it's tight, but clears just fine. previously had a 2.7 on there, also with SSI's, and it fit similarly.

got any pic's of what you're up against?...

Maybe it’s my yoke - it’s not a tight fit, but a “no-fit”.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1640122215.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1640122215.jpg

remove the pressure plate and the flywheel..

Ivan

I’m clearing the PP and ring gear, but catching the oil line…

Can I put some spacers on the studs, enough to clear the oil line, and then put on the yoke?

don't worry about the oil line and remove the press plate and the flywheel as well...do not use any spacers for safety reasons..!!If the line is in the way loosen the 36mm nut ,it will be taken off anyway..
ivan

ok the way the yoke should be put on the engine is..start on the left side with the starter stud.Not the way you have it..
Ivan

^^ this...

Correct Orientation........
 

Michael,

Are you sure you installed the 911 engine yoke at the correct location? The pictures show they were installed by cylinders 1-2-3. That is not the conventional way to install the engine yoke. I do use the cylinders 1-2-3 side for my engine test stand to hold the motor and have the starter at cylinder 4-5-6. Keep us posted.

Tony

[IMG]https://zupimages.net/up/21/51/ih84.jpg[/IMG]

this way

Tony/Proporche - yes, would have loved to install on the 456 side, but the crossover line stands even more proud from the case than on the 123 side. I think I’m going to have to find a way to remove the oil line and not looking forward to it as the engine is sitting on a lift table, making the oil line nut very hard to access. I’ll have a think on it. I do have an ATV lift as well, maybe I can use that in conjunction with the lift table.

Rethinking MaxJax right now!!

And by the way - thanks for the responses, really love this board and community.

Michael,

There is something wrong with your engine yoke. I had that motor of yours for a while and installed the SSI and cross-over line with no problem using my engine yoke. Maybe you got the cheapy version and not the SIR tool type engine yoke. Having good quality tools make a lot of difference in your work.

Tony

Sounds like a shop crane engine hoist is what you need or a few neighborhood toughs.

as a side, what size are the bolts to mount the yoke?

the studs are part of the engine ,the yoke just slides on them

Ivan

The transmission studs are 10 mm in diameter. Only two (2) studs are used by the engine yoke to hold the motor in place with some spacers required.

Tony