Gordo's Euro Bumper Buffers (AKA Bumperette) & Crush Tube Install

[Gordo2]

Following through on my New Year's resolution to drop some lb's, offload some poundage, work off the spare tire, slenderize, loose the 6 pack flabs... The 911SC is along for the ride.

I'm replacing my OEM bumper shocks (front and rear) with Euro crush tubes (https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/RENS14002.htm?pn=REN-S-14002&SVSVSI=802&DID=29738)

I'm also replacing my US spec rear bumper buffers / bumperettes with Euro style buffers (https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/91150534100.htm?pn=911-505-341-00-OEM&SVSVSI=802&DID=58606).

Total weight reduction should be ~ 19 lbs.

The Euro bumper buffer install involves drilling holes in the rear bumper and leaves the OEM buffer mount holes exposed and in need of filling & painting. For me, it's one step closer to getting my car ready for a full up paint job.


Rear Bumper Work

Rear bumper came off pretty easy.



Not too complicated, but here's a thread describing removal: Rear bumper removal

Installed crush tubes in place of the OEM impact shocks for a total reduction of ~ 3.5 lbs.:



Found a loose wire behind the bumper - not sure, but assume it is for the Euro rear fog light? Whatever - zip tied it out of the way, and moved on.


Bumper Buffer / Bumperette Installation

Mounting the Euro bumper buffers / bumperettes seemed a little daunting (do I need precision drilling to ensure correct positioning & alignment - have I had too many beers for this tonight???). I suppressed my OCD (engineering) tendencies long enough to eyeball position the outer edge of the Euro buffer to align to where the OEM buffer mounts - overlaying the outline of the bumper impact strip:



You can rub the 2 mounting bolts of the Euro buffer on the bumper to scratch a position to drill, or dab some paint on the ends of the bolts to mark the center points. I drilled the 2 new holes with a 7/16" drill bit, which is very close to the OEM hole size - slightly oversized to provide ease of fitment.



Yea - my bumper is / was pretty corroded, which was hidden behind the huge, fat US spec bumper buffers...

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Break time - turning into a long post, will continue and update as time & energy allows.

Gordo

[Larmo63]

I just did this to my car.

[Ian Comerford]

You should go one step further and remove them altogether

[DaytonaCoupe66]

Very nice look; either the conversion or the delete. One of my fat units was slightly damaged many years ago and the metal under the padding is badly corroded so has started to swell. I took the heat shield and valence out to clean things up and while in this neighborhood decided to remove the bumperettes and now the bumper. I can now drill the hole for the tow hook from the back of the bumper through that plastic piece with the larger plug that you see on the driver's side of Ian's car. For some reason that plug isn't on mine. Ian, love the GT3 exhaust pipes - whose muffler and valence did you use?

Two new Euro units are on the way. I like the delete look, but the thought that an insurance company may find that excuse to adjust an accident claim is a contender in the decision.

I thought that the two holes in the Euros might line up with two of the original three in the fat version, but according to your post looks like no, new holes will be needed.

Be sure to add the finished photo!

[Gordo2]

Thanks for the comments & inspiration folks.

I looked at all the bumper threads & options when deciding where I wanted to go - lots of great looks like Ians' and many others - but decided I wanted to remain relatively stock looking overall.


Rear Bumper Work (continued)

Once the new holes were drilled, I sanded the bumper with 180 grit to prep for primer. The bumper may remain in this state for a while until I find a painter, so I thought it should at least look like its heading in that direction.



I found the license plate light assembly wouldn't fit into one of the Euro buffer's mounting hole / recess. A little shaving of the recess with a dremel tool quickly fixed that:




And the finished (short of paint shop) product - lighter / faster / better...



Next up - Front bumper crush tube installation:



Enjoy

[DaytonaCoupe66]

Right on! Are you going to bumper plug or put weld in the old holes?

[kimlangley7]

Very Nice.. I envy your uncluttered garage !! working in my garage is like doing brain surgery inside a telephone booth... as my 80 911SC is on one side and the 1973 BMW 2002Tii is on the other...

[Ian Comerford]

Originally Posted by DaytonaCoupe66

Very nice look; either the conversion or the delete. One of my fat units was slightly damaged many years ago and the metal under the padding is badly corroded so has started to swell. I took the heat shield and valence out to clean things up and while in this neighborhood decided to remove the bumperettes and now the bumper. I can now drill the hole for the tow hook from the back of the bumper through that plastic piece with the larger plug that you see on the driver's side of Ian's car. For some reason that plug isn't on mine. Ian, love the GT3 exhaust pipes - whose muffler and valence did you use?

Two new Euro units are on the way. I like the delete look, but the thought that an insurance company may find that excuse to adjust an accident claim is a contender in the decision.

I thought that the two holes in the Euros might line up with two of the original three in the fat version, but according to your post looks like no, new holes will be needed.

Be sure to add the finished photo!

I’ve pm'd you so that we don’t hijack this thread.

[AlKidd]

I did the same as you. How did you get the rubber rub strips to lay flat on the bumper? The Euro bumperette held them down before and now with them gone there is noting to hold them flat.

Originally Posted by Ian Comerford

You should go one step further and remove them altogether

[Ian Comerford]

Originally Posted by AlKidd

I did the same as you. How did you get the rubber rub strips to lay flat on the bumper? The Euro bumperette held them down before and now with them gone there is noting to hold them flat.

I glued them using a flexible adhesive, Sikasil SG20. I held the rubber in place with tape for 24 hours to allow the adhesive to set. They have been on for four years this time and eight or nine years the last time I did it. The adhesive remains flexible once ‘set’ so copes with vibration and movement really well

[famoroso]

Originally Posted by AlKidd

I did the same as you. How did you get the rubber rub strips to lay flat on the bumper? The Euro bumperette held them down before and now with them gone there is noting to hold them flat.

There is a thread here that details drilling a hole in the bumper, drilling & tapping a hole in the end of the rubber strip, then using a bolt from the backside to fasten / snug the end of the strip down to the bumper.

It may be in here: The official modified bumpers thread!!!

[Fratog]

This is the solution I came up with to rid myself of the awful bumper blocks. I plug welded the holes so they can be easily drilled out and restored to original if required. These license plate lights meet the legal requirement and are also kind of a tribute to the original installation.

[Fratog]

Still have to bond the ends of the mid rubber strip. (And find a replacement reflector

[Gordo2]

Originally Posted by kimlangley7

...I envy your uncluttered garage...

Comment made me laugh. Don't let the photos fool you - it took a week of clearing crap (lawn / summer stuff...) out of the garage to make it reasonably roomy enough to start this project. Meanwhile, I still have to clear a gap on my workbench if I need to do some countertop work:

Originally Posted by DaytonaCoupe66

Right on! Are you going to bumper plug or put weld in the old holes?

I plan to have the holes welded.


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Front Crush Tube Installation

Very helpful post / thread on front bumper removal: '88 911 Bumper Removal

Pretty much followed this process - but I removed my turn & marker light assemblies (from the back - 2 nuts each) before I detached the bumper.

I'm throwing the passenger side aluminum reinforcement / support bracket in the trash...

Passenger side bumper shock removal was a little challenging - the shock body spun as I tried to remove the main retaining nut. The forward mount was tight, but the body still spun - so I improvised.


Box end wrench on the main retaining nut, removed the forward mount and spun the shock body with a pipe wrench to loosen it off of the nut:


Front passenger side crush tube installed:


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Both tubes and bumper are installed - that's it for the day. Have a few small parts (bumper strip clips...) to order before I wrap it up.

Good sidebar posts on bumper modification stuff. A wealth of info on The official modified bumpers thread!!! - but details such as bumper strip fastening can be difficult to locate in the 19+ pages...

- Gordo

[DaytonaCoupe66]

"....Comment made me laugh. Don't let the photos fool you - it took a week of clearing crap (lawn / summer stuff...) out of the garage to make it reasonably roomy enough to start this project. Meanwhile, I still have to clear a gap on my workbench if I need to do some countertop work..."

That end wall looks more like my space. Doesn't matter how often I organize it, whenever diving into a project it quickly gets undone.