The air injection system had been all but removed. The only trace of it was the spider pipe under the engine. After removing the exhaust manifolds, the piping connections all came out without a struggle which was a nice surprise.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652924902.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652924902.jpg

The air injectors also came out easily. I ran a thread chaser through all the holes and bolts from belmetric sealed up the holes.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652924902.jpg


The exhaust manifold studs were a different matter. I chose to replace them with titanium ones from Silverlake while the manifolds were off so that I wouldn’t have to deal with rusty bolts. Two studs came out while removing the nuts, two came out by double-nutting, 5 came out by welding the nut to the stud, and three snapped in half.

I had to drill out the one that snapped flush with the head.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652925030.jpg


The last two studs had enough meat left so I bought a stud extractor to try and remove them. Beginners luck let me get the first stud out without any drama but my luck ran out for the second stud.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652925030.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652925030.jpg

It snapped flush with the head. Back to the drill to carefully and slowly get the last stud out


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652925030.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652925030.jpg

Snapped stud

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1652925604.jpg

Nice work! Pretty much unavoidable to not snap a few exhaust studs. I had 3 / 12 snap on mine. Transmission sure looks clean as does the underside. Did I miss the info in your thread that the seller dry ice cleaned the underside when he listed on BaT? Saved you a lot of mess.

As a lifelong DIYer, I think that was the biggest car repair related bill I've ever had. But it's also a job that I want done right.

I did give the transmission a good clean before I sent it off. It wasn't too dirty to start though. It's not the original transmission either, the sales ad mentioned that it had a recent transmission replacement, I assumed that meant that they replaced the old transmission with a good one. Goes to show you should never assume....

I don't think the car was ever dry ice cleaned. It spent the first 27 years and 75k miles of it's life in California. Then 8 years and 10k miles in Massachusetts.

I had a sneaking suspicion that the turbo oil scavenger pump was leaking oil.

This was for two reasons, the first sign was that the shop who performed the post purchase inspection told me it was leaking oil, and the second was because it was covered in oil.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1653529547.JPG

A quick clean up and replaced all the seals

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1653529407.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1653529407.jpg

and then installed back on the engine for a nice straight-forward repair.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1653529407.jpg

As mentioned in the engine removal post, One of the big reasons for this last round of jobs was to fix all the oil leaks on the engine. Most of the oil leaks seems to be concentrated to the valve covers and cam boxes.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659319003.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659319003.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659319003.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659319003.jpg

The upper valve covers had received a very poor paint job with zero prep. The paint had started flaking off and most of it was gone after cleaning the engine. The biggest source of the oil leak seems to have been caused by this paint drip preventing the cover from sitting flat.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659319176.jpg

Wanting to cover all possible sources of leaks, I picked up some RSR rocker seals and the rocker locks from turbokraft to install while the valve covers were off. I was surprised to find that the engine already had the RSR seals and they didn’t appear to be leaking. I replaced the seals for good measure and installed the rocker locks.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659319176.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659319176.jpg

The cam boxes were covered in sealant and had epoxy at the bottom. Looking at all of the gaskets as I disassembled everything, It didn’t look like they were leaking . I suspect that the valve cover leaks were covering the cam boxes and the last attempt to seal everything was to cover any and all surfaces with liquid gasket of epoxy.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659319568.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659319568.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659319568.jpg


The last person to put the engine together really liked their liquid gasket.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659319568.jpg

Every mating surface was check for flatness and prepped for reassembly. This isn’t a job that I want to do twice.

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While I had the valve covers and cam boxes off I thought it would be a great time to get them vapor blasted and coated in a clear cerakote to keep them looking fresh. A quick google search and I found a place that advertised both processes, I gave them a call to confirm that they could do the job and then dropped off the parts. After a two and a half week wait they sent me a picture of my upper valve covers, which they had sand blasted! A quick call and I come to find out that the don’t do vapor blasting….. So I go and pick up may parts and decide that they’ll have to wait until the next valve adjustment. I’ve been tripping over the engine for the last 4 months and I’m ready to get it back in the car and driving, so the cam boxes go back on the engine and the cam gears guides are assembled.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659320576.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659320576.jpg


I checked all of the valve clearances and adjusted a couple and then it’s on to setting the cam timing.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659320742.jpg


Trying to limit the amount of money spent on tools that I’m likely to only use once, I went through the homemade tool thread on the forum to see what I could find. Fortunately, someone had posted some dimensions to use for a Z-Block. I modelled it up and printed it out. I was going to add in a threaded bushing to hold a dial indicator but the fit was snug enough that it held the dial nicely.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659320815.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659320815.jpg


The technical specification book calls out a cam timing of 0.65mm-0.85mm with ideal adjustment of 0.7mm.
I’ve watched as many youtube tutorials on adjusting cam timing as I could find. Feeling 49% confident and 51% terrified, I checked the left cam first and measured 0.4mm. Time to pull out the pin using the spark plug trick and I find this….

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659320815.jpg


I’d put the pin in backwards and there was no thread to pull it out. Time to disassemble the cam gears and get the pin out. Second attempt and I measured 0.68mm, close enough to the target of 0.7mm for me.

I moved on to the right side and measured 0.67mm on the first attempt. Time to torque everything up. The one tool I did spring for was the cam holder. After torqueing both bolts it was then placed my toolbox with the myriad of other specialty tools that will likely not get used again.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659320942.jpg


Then the valve covers and cam box covers can go on.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659321082.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659321082.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659321082.jpg

One of the final “while you’re in there” gaskets was the breather cover. I removed the old one and all of the liquid gasket, cleaned up both mating surfaces and then spent the next hour searching for the new gasket. I can only guess that it was accidentally thrown out with all the packaging from the cam box and valve cover gaskets. Determined to get the engine back in the car this weekend, I called all the local Porsche dealerships and no one had one in stock. Plan B was to make my own, time will tell if I come to regret this.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659321473.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659321473.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659321473.jpg


All of the remaining engine tin and the turbo were then assembled and it was ready to go back in the car.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659321473.jpg


The engine installation was fairly straight-forward

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659321918.jpg

.....except that I’d forgotten to repairs the reverse switch wires. One of the crimps got caught when pulling the engine and pulled a wire out. I found a 90 degree battery terminal for an r/c car that was a tidy fit and set underneath the rubber boot. So the extra length of wire was removed and these were soldered on.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659321918.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659321918.jpg


I went with Nord-lock washers and blue Loctite on the new CV bolts to ensure they don't have the option of backing out.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659321918.jpg

Not to be Captain obvious, but have you replaced this rather bad hack patch?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1659346973.jpg

Yes, I replaced this when I first got the car hoping it was the main source of the leaks. Unfortunately it seems like it wasn’t leaking and most of the oil on it was dripping down from above.
I used this old photo as it showed how much oil was leaking.

With the car finally back together it presented me one last challenge. The drivers rear hub had seized up. When the engine was out I took the opportunity to clean the engine bay and may have got a little carried away with the pressure washer. After pushing the car back in the garage the brake pads had rusted to the rotors. I used a pad spreader to free them but the drivers side hub still wouldn’t spin. I then removed the newly rebuilt axel on the drivers side and the hub still wouldn’t turn. Next, I removed the rotor and it still wouldn’t turn. Finally, I removed the hub nut and then it finally turn, but not smoothly.
Back to the forum to find the rear wheel bearing DIY, then off to autozone to rent their slide hammer and hub puller and this is what I found.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665282719.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665282719.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665282719.jpg

When I was cleaning the engine bay, I had noticed a lot of grease around the stub axle and in my quest to clean it all off I think I got some water in the bearings which proceeded to rust while sitting for the couple of months while I worked on the engine. The split seal was the reason for all the grease on the trailing arm.

I picked up a seal removal kit that was recommended in the DIY. The only part that I deviated was in removing the outer bearing race. I found that the 72mm tool was just slightly larger than the ID of the race. I filed off a section that allowed me to insert the tool sideways, then turn it once it was inside the trailing arm and then butt it up against the rear surface of the race. I used a bushing puller from another kit and removed the outer race.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665282864.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665282864.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665282864.jpg

For the outer wheel bearing, I only purchased the large bearing separator from Harbor Freight then used some bolts and a scrap piece of metal to pull the bearing off. The mistake I made was assuming that tightening the bolts on the bearing separator would pull the tool together and drive the wedge of the tool between the bearing and the hub and start to pull it off. All it did was mar the sealing surface of the hub. The bolts don’t need to be tight, just enough to hold the bearing separator behind the bearing while you pull if off with the bolts that screw in to the side of it. After cleaning up those dings, it was ready to be reassembled.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665282898.jpg


Unfortunately, I didn’t take too many additional pictures. My hands were covered in bearing grease so I didn’t pick up my phone. I did take on of the outer race reinstalled.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665282930.jpg

Reassembly went fairly well, I followed the forum DIY and got all bearings and seals installed as well as the rear hub. I then sat back to admire my handy work when I realized that I forgot to install the brake backing plate!!!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665282950.jpg

The hub came back out quite easily. I installed the backing plate and reinstalled the hub, then assembled the handbrake, rotor and caliper. Tightening the rear hub nut was challenging, but with the help of my reluctant wife standing on the brake pedal I managed to tightened the nut to spec.
5 months after pulling the engine the car was finally ready to drive!!!!

Or so I thought….

After the engine had been sitting for so long, I thought it would be a good idea to get the oil pressure up before starting the car. So I disconnected the coil HT lead and turned the engine over until I saw oil pressure building. I then reconnected the car and turned the key and it turned over and over and over and then loudly backfired….. Not what I was expecting.

During the previous work, I had moved the distributer to access one of the engine tin bolts. I had set it back to where I thought it had been but planned to check timing once everything was running. So I turned the distributer one direction, tried again, and was met with the same problem. Okay, so I turn it back the other way and try again. This time it turned over but no backfire. I go back and check that my wires are going to the correct plugs… They are. I check that the rotor is facing plug one when the engine is at TDC, It is. I turn the key and it turns over and then backfires again!!!
Now I’m starting wonder if I messed up the cam timing procedure. Thoughts of pulling the engine and tearing it down, replacing all the gaskets that I so carefully cleaned and torqued, and all the time wasted!

It was time to search to forum to see what I need to check next. Most of the posts focus on making sure your installed the distributer correctly and not 180 degrees out. Since I was pretty sure I never fully removed the distributer I was confident that this wasn’t my problem but after a few days of not finding any fixes, I tried it.

And, of course, it fired right up!

So after a quick check of timing at idle, I finally went for a drive.

Nice! Congrats.

A week after finally getting the car running it cut out while waiting at a red light. I started right back up and I carried on to work. Then on my way home, it cut out in the car park but started right back up. It’s starting to get annoying but at least it always restarts……Until it doesn’t

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665537055.jpg

The fuel pumps run constantly when the key is on. There’s a mess of wires and some additional relays in the front fuse panel that I’ve yet to investigate, but I am assuming it was a work-around for some issue that’s just waiting for me to discover. When the car would cut out, the fuel pumps remained running so I believe it is the ignition that’s failing. Back to the forum to find the solution. In my searching, I finally find out what the random connector in the engine bay with a fuse stuck in it is for, the delayed action relay. The fuse is still intact so it’s not the issue but I order a new relay and continue my search. Next I find that I missed the ground wire when I bolted in the engine bay relay panel and I read that this can damage the CDI.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665537087.jpg

Most posts seem to disapprove of the Permatune CDI box that my car came with, and state that if it hasn’t failed it will soon. I check the manufacturers website and it lists several checks that can be performed and lists the likely cause of the failure if it doesn’t pass them. One of the checks is if the CDI is run without the ground strap attached. Mine passes that test and all the others. I check the coil resistance, and everything is in spec.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665537133.jpg

I check the distributer green wire and it passes the test. I order a replacement just to be on the safe side. I find that the HT lead for the coil is not the proper one and the ends have been bodged to fit so I order the correct one. I replace each part individually and check to see if the car will start. It doesn’t.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665537156.jpg

I’m trying to avoid replacing the CDI box without definitively knowing that it is the cause but it’s looking more and more likely. The car funds are low after the last round of repairs so I’m trying to avoid unnecessary expenses.
Then, late one night scrolling through various posts, I found one stating that if the tachometer goes bad, it can interfere with the CDI signal and cause it not to fire. Instead of heading to bed like I should, I go out to the garage and pull the tachometer. The car fire right up for the first time in a week! Basking in my glory, I go for a late-night drive to reward all my hard work. I made it a half mile from my house and the car died and wouldn’t restart!
It's now 1AM and I’m trying to decide if I should wait for a tow truck not knowing how long that would take; leave the car on the side of the road till the morning; or push it home. Considering all my bad decisions this evening, I went all-in and started pushing the car home. It was going well at the start. Florida is flat, the car is light and there’s no-one else around. but right before my street is a slight incline and a bend. Progressed decreased and perspiration increased considerably. After inching up the incline for about 10 minutes a car came down the road. I pulled the handbrake and stepped off the road to be safe. They stopped and offered help, but I declined as I didn’t want to burden them with my poor decisions. Fortunately, they weren’t dissuaded, and the final stretch went much more easily with three people pushing. We got the car in to the driveway, I thanked them profusely and went inside and ordered a new CDI and coil.

I bought an MSD 8222 high vibration coil and the street fire CDI. The coil was a quick installation.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665537244.jpg

I laid the CDI on the engine relay plate and found a couple of existing holes lined up with the bottom mounting points. The bolt holes in the CDI were too small for the M5 bolts so I made some square nuts to replace the existing ones.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665537281.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665537281.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665537281.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665537281.jpg

I needed to cut a new hole for the top mounting points then I attached the cdi and mounted it back in the car. I planned to attach the constant power wire to the unused fuse in the engine bay. The fuse panel connecter was twisted so I tried to gently align it but it broke off. So for now the constant power is attached with an inline fuse.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665537329.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665537329.jpg

I found the part number for the female connecter and terminals for the CDI from the forum. Once it was wired in, the final part was a resistor-less rotor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665537355.jpg

The car started right up and the intermittent stalling hasn’t come back.

I chuckled at this. Extreme excitement at thinking you figured out the issue and then immediately being slapped in the face, at 1am. Happens to the best of us! Glad some people drove by and were willing to help you move it back to your garage.

This is an enjoyable thread and thanks for keeping us updated. I’m definitely learning some engine electronics here as well as you motor thru all the challenges tossed at you. Good stuff!

I was very thankful to get help. I felt rather guilty too, they'd just got home from a 10 hour drive from Alabama