![]() |
Accumulator replacement - tips and tricks?
Well, I finally narrowed my hot-start problem down to the accumulator (after replacing the fuel pump check valve). A new accumulator and fuel filter should be here today - are there any tips or tricks to use when installing them?
It seems to be pretty straightforward, but if anyone can give some advice, it would be most appreciated. |
It is pretty straightforward. The only thing to add would be to stuff a couple of rags under it to catch the gas that will leak out when the connections are broken. You may need to bleed the air out of the system by lifting the sensor beam with the key to switched to "on", but most likely cranking it will get the air out.
Good luck. Mike |
Do it with a "cold fuel system. That way you have less pressure, and it will not spray gas a much.
|
You probably already know this, pretty basic, but use two wrenches when you loosen the unions. I think one is a 19mm and the other is a 17mm. The two hex things that you put the wrenches on are right next to each other on the top, and right next to each other on the bottom. This allows you to configure the two open-end or flare nut wrenches so that they make a "V". In this configuration, all that is needed to loosen the union is to squeeze the two wrenches together with one hand.
Also, leave the mounting bracket on the FA until these unions are loosened. |
i would disconnect the battery just in case.
|
Yup, just be real careful not to strip the fittings, it's easier than it looks.
|
Hate to say it, but I had my mechanic replace the accumulator on my former car and have no idea where this part is. Need to replace the acc. on my new SC and would appreciate any photos or additional guidance on the job.
Thanks. |
I am going thru the same diagnostic (no sys pressure after 30 min after shut down) but I still need to rule out the cold start valve,i wish it were a bad accunmulator, much easier job to tackle.
|
Quote:
Sounds like you need the Bentley SC Repair Manual. Get it and read, read...............you'll love it! :) |
Quote:
After 30 minutes, the engine is still hot enough. Check valve on the pump, and a tired accumulator are suspect but vacuum leaks and a few other things, like leaking injectors, can be the problem. |
Gunther,
THANKS. Even when i read the Bosch and Bently manuals, it is great to hear your "voice and Experience" on the subject. So, In order of precedence is this the procedure/method i should follow: A.Vac leaks -check (with soap soln ? ) locate and correct.re check sys pressure If no vac leaks ...and still 0 sys press @30min, B . Check injectors. replace if leaky or bad spray pattern. Re test sys pressure for 1.1 bar @30 min. if still 0, C replace check valve @ fuel pump if still no press... D.replace Fuel acc and filter. Thanks Again |
Vacuum leaks show up as bad idling. Forget the soap suds.
With engine idling, use an unlit propane torch (Small tip) and point at the various suspects on the intake systems, especially the gaskets and boots on the runners. Also the breather hoses between case and oil filler stud. And the hoses for the brake-booster and cruise control. If the idle improves, you found the culprit. |
If you don't even know what it looks like, how do you know that it needs replacing? :confused:
Good one. I've been through this before and it's clearly symptomatic of the accumulator. I've got the manuals. Sounds like a pretty simple replacement having done some more poking around. I know the part. |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:39 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website