changing 911E steel rear trailing arms to G series aluminium type

[graham c]

are there any dramas to remove steel trailing arms, and replace with G series aluminium type

[Rodney Nelson]

Yes, read this article....

I have a pair that I will be installing at some point.

[H-viken]

Originally Posted by graham c

are there any dramas to remove steel trailing arms, and replace with G series aluminium type

What year is your car? For ex on the 1970 the hole in the crossmember is pretty narrow and creates a space issue since the angle of the strut is changed. I could not fit them on my car without rubbing

[graham c]

Originally Posted by H-viken

What year is your car? For ex on the 1970 the hole in the crossmember is pretty narrow and creates a space issue since the angle of the strut is changed. I could not fit them on my car without rubbing

its a 1970 911E,,i am referring to the rear of the coupe, are you referring to the front ?

[graham c]

thanks Rodney, interesting reading

[H-viken]

Originally Posted by graham c

its a 1970 911E,,i am referring to the rear of the coupe, are you referring to the front ?

I’m referring to the rear. I have the same model as you and couldn’t make it work in a good way

[70SATMan]

Originally Posted by H-viken

I’m referring to the rear. I have the same model as you and couldn’t make it work in a good way

Yeah, usually you need a BFH to make them work pre '71. I'm trying to work it out on my '70 as well.

[Tom Elder]

See page 13 of my thread. 1970T. If I remember correctly Koni rear dampers are a little smaller in diameter than the Bilsteins and might help. Pendulum Outlaw, Build, Adventures and Misadventures

[Tremelune]

More info in this thread:

1971 911 Suspension help

'69-71s have narrow rear shock towers that make the swap painful.

[jluetjen]

I did it on my '69 years ago, but there were a bunch of little details that the Excellence article didn't cover.

I needed to replace the following...

* Trailing arms (duh!). I had to grind some material off of the lower shock mount so that the shocks wouldn't interfere with the chassis.
* CV's (to match the trailing arms. mine interfered on the outside CV's)
* Half shafts (to match the CV's)
* Output flanges on the transaxle (to match the inner CV's. I used 915 axle flanges and had a local machine shop mill 1 mm off of the diameter of the bearing surface. They've worked perfectly.)
* Shocks, to fit the larger bolt of the later trailing arm.

[graham c]

has anyone removed the ball head bolt on the aluminium control arm. This is the bolt that accepts the push on bush that supports the end of the rear stabilizer bar. It does not want to undo.

[mepstein]

Originally Posted by graham c

has anyone removed the ball head bolt on the aluminium control arm. This is the bolt that accepts the push on bush that supports the end of the rear stabilizer bar. It does not want to undo.

Heat the surrounding aluminum with a torch for a minute or two and give a try.

[kent olsen]

They also have a larger wheel bearing. Did that to my 72T a thousand years ago.

[deemsriddle]

I also have a 1971 T coupe and will be changing mine out in a few weeks. Thanks for the info.

[wjdunham]

Originally Posted by jluetjen

I did it on my '69 years ago, but there were a bunch of little details that the Excellence article didn't cover.

I needed to replace the following...

* Trailing arms (duh!). I had to grind some material off of the lower shock mount so that the shocks wouldn't interfere with the chassis.
* CV's (to match the trailing arms. mine interfered on the outside CV's)
* Half shafts (to match the CV's)
* Output flanges on the transaxle (to match the inner CV's. I used 915 axle flanges and had a local machine shop mill 1 mm off of the diameter of the bearing surface. They've worked perfectly.)
* Shocks, to fit the larger bolt of the later trailing arm.

Not sure I understand why the CV's, half shats and output flanges need to be changed. I'm about to do this exact swap on a 69 and my plan was to re-use the half shafts and the outboard piece that mates to the hub that is pressed into the trailing arm bearings since this has the correct 4x 10mm holes and the two pins to mate to my trailing arms. I already have the correct 4x10mm flanges on my 915 that is also getting swapped in.

Am I missing something?

[safe]

Originally Posted by wjdunham

Not sure I understand why the CV's, half shats and output flanges need to be changed. I'm about to do this exact swap on a 69 and my plan was to re-use the half shafts and the outboard piece that mates to the hub that is pressed into the trailing arm bearings since this has the correct 4x 10mm holes and the two pins to mate to my trailing arms. I already have the correct 4x10mm flanges on my 915 that is also getting swapped in.

Am I missing something?

I used the original CVs on my 69 when I changed to aluminum arms.
BFHed the cross member for clearance...