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Not having fun.. striped allen bolt on seat.. Little help..please
Hello all,
I am removing the interior pieces for dying and recarpeting BUT.I have a problem... The passanger seat came out just fine but the allen bolts that hold the drivers seat where put on by superman on steriods. One of them has already stripped, and will not move, even with a hammer a chiesel. Is there any advice or help to get these things out. They are deep in the groove of the seat channel and hard to get to. I would be willing to grind them off if I could get the seat to come off without removing the channel's They are power seats if that makes any difference. Thanks
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Richard 86 930 Turbo "Julie" K27-BB Intercooler, BB Muffler.. Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee http://www.pbase.com/rjgilliam |
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can you fit a drill in to drill out the head?
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Chuck Moreland - elephantracing.com - vonnen.com |
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The front right one yes,if I have a long drill bit, but not any of the rear ones, they are basically under the seat..
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Richard 86 930 Turbo "Julie" K27-BB Intercooler, BB Muffler.. Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee http://www.pbase.com/rjgilliam |
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If not a drill, sounds like job for a 90 degree grinder, or a Dremel.
Good luck.
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Nick '85 Carrera |
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Now that sounds like fun! So there is no way to get the seat off without removing those bolts?
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Richard 86 930 Turbo "Julie" K27-BB Intercooler, BB Muffler.. Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee http://www.pbase.com/rjgilliam |
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By stripped I will assume you mean the internal wrenching socket in the head has rounded. Some type of penetrating oil (Aero Kroil, PB Blaster, etc.) to the screw threads could help but I suspect you can't readily get the oil into the threads. I also suspect the limited access is preventing you from getting a good tangential blow from the hammer and chisel. A few other things to try: (1)if you can give the screw head a blow with hammer/chisel in the tightening direction first and then back in the loosening direction, (2) sacrifice a "torx" bit of the appropriate size and hammer it down into the stripped wrenching socket. Then while applying a lot of axial force into the screw head (as access permits), through the torx bit do the tightening/loosening moves. Then if there is room/access; there is the method of locking the 7R size (smaller size) vicegrips to the outside of the screw head and turning with the vicegrips. Good luck. Jim
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Perhaps a rotary tool like Dremel or something to cut the heads off. I'm sorry for putting them on so tight.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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lol@superman..
I needed that. Thanks for all the suggestions: I am off to the tool place.
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Richard 86 930 Turbo "Julie" K27-BB Intercooler, BB Muffler.. Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee http://www.pbase.com/rjgilliam |
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RJ:
Maybe you're already off to tool store... I had the same problem...solved by a set of Sears screw extractors for about $25. I didn't use the extractor sleeve, but just the grinder part of the bit. Goes through those hex heads like they were butter. Drill slow and it works. Also, a cheapie set of metric hex head sockets with 3/8 drive for replacing bolts under seat sure comes in handy with other 911 projects. When I put the L-shaped hex wrenches under torque, they are prone to strip, whereas the socket types have not in same circumstances. I remember Roland Kunz writing that those stock bolts are not exactly 5mm (head). I think that they are slightly larger than 5mm that 5mm end fits but strips under torque. Good Luck -------------------- Bob Sauerteig '87 Coupe |
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slot it with hacksaw blade
Before you grind the whole head away, might try to cut a slot with a hacksaw blade. Then use a thin blade screw driver as a lever arm. Otherwise, Dremel tools are wonderfully destructive and this is a good excuse to get one.
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I had the exact same problem with the front right hand nut on my passenger seat when I took it out before having 993 seats fitted. My father got it off for me as I was inside looking for an appropriate tool. Don't know exactly what he did though. I was just happy to get my seat out. If it's badly stripped you might be able to "force" a larger tool into the nut? At least that was what I was planning to do with mine.
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Mr. Sims made a great suggestion. I too went through the stripped-hex-seat-bolt ordeal. After stripping most of them with the allen/hex bit, I put a Torx T-40 bit on the ratchet, and all of the (now badly stripped) bolts "snapped" loose from the Gorilla torque, and backed right out. The bit fit snuggly into the stripped heads and I didn't need to force it, or hammer it in. It didn't even damage the bit.
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Just had similar problem with hex nut on window regulator. Used the hacksaw method to cut a groove (didn't work), cut another one to cross it (didn't work). Finally sprayed penetrating oil and used vise grips. That got it. Good luck.
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Rob Black 1983 911 SC Coupe |
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Go Dremmel Go! The only tool I turn to in a situation like this... With the special fiber-reinforced wheels, it would probably take about 2 minutes...
-Wayne
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Wayne R. Dempsey, Founder, Pelican Parts Inc., and Author of: 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 911 • How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 Engines • 101 Projects for Your Porsche Boxster & Cayman • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 996 / 997 • SPEED READ: Porsche 911 Check out our new site: Dempsey Motorsports |
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If you do go the Dremel route, just be careful of the sparks - I had to shave down a non-factory seat track bolt which was preventing my seat from moving all the way and the sparks from using the Dremel caused a burn in my carpet... which doesn't matter to you since you're replacing it.... but you might want to throw a rag over anything else nearby that you wish to protect.
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Same problem and it is no stinkin fun. Best $12 I ever spent was on a cheap air hammer. If you have a compressor those bolts will be out in seconds. Just use a sharp blade/chisel and be careful not to slip and beat snot out of the seat rail. Get on the outside edge and attempt to "bite" into the edge of the bolt head and walk it around in the counter-clockwise direction. If you don't have a compressor the dremel is the way to go but it will take time. I was amazed with the air hammer.
"If it wont budge get a bigger hammer"
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rj cilurso 87 911 targa 05 Vette Last edited by rcilurso; 05-10-2002 at 07:56 AM.. |
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It'll be legen-waitforit
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I'm reviving this thread because I just did in one set of the threads on the seat. T allen head bolt is fine but the threads came out of the seat base when I removed the bolt. Looking for suggestions...longer bolt, drill in new threads? It's the passenger seat so it's not too bad, but I want a safe seat for the wife.
Thanks
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Bob James 06 Cayman S - Money Penny 18 Macan GTS Gone: 79 911SC, 83 944, 05 Cayenne Turbo, 10 Panamera Turbo |
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RJ,
Did you get your seat out? I have some "Easy Outs" (made to remove stripped screws) if you need to use them.
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Jeff 1976 911 Coupe w/ Euro 3.0 - Sold 1987 Carrera Coupe - Sold 1999 Carrera Cabriolet - Current |
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It'll be legen-waitforit
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Jeff,
Yes the seats' out. and so are the bolts (I can't get them back in as they can't grad a thread) It's the bolts that mount the seat rails to the seat )Not the seat to the floor. Thanks
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Bob James 06 Cayman S - Money Penny 18 Macan GTS Gone: 79 911SC, 83 944, 05 Cayenne Turbo, 10 Panamera Turbo |
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Bob, I would re-tap the threads (in a larger size) and get a corresponding bolt if you have the room. Or... Use the rail from the driver's seat and get yourself a nice new seat
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Jeff 1976 911 Coupe w/ Euro 3.0 - Sold 1987 Carrera Coupe - Sold 1999 Carrera Cabriolet - Current |
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