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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 8
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G50 Clutch Hard Line Replacement (in tunnel)
Any insight to replacing the clutch hardline that runs through the bulkhead and body tunnel?
I believe it's part number 91142319902 Backing out of my garage the other day, the pedal went to the floor. It took me a second of confusion before I figured out why I was still rolling backward into the street while in gear. Got the car stalled only to find a trail of brake fluid down the driveway. There is a pin hole in the hardline. It's not a connection or the soft line dripping. Had a friend pump the clutch and was treated to a fine mist of brake fluid in the eyes coming from a clear pin hole in the hardline. How that heck does that even happen? It's buried up there pretty good.  I can't find much in the service manuals. Any pics or tips to get that thing out? Anything ideas what would cause a pin hole in the line? Thanks! |
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01-18-2024, 12:25 PM
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PCA Member since 1988
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Pin hole in the line: Probably internal or external corrosion penetrating the line. It doesn't look like it was caused by external corrosion, so probably internal. Most people know that you are supposed to flush and replace the brake fluid every 2 years (even if they don't do it religiously). Guess what? The clutch system uses brake fluid and needs to be flushed regularly too, and for the same reason. I'll take a guess that this was greatly delayed in the case of your car.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! Last edited by PeteKz; 01-18-2024 at 04:26 PM.. |
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01-18-2024, 04:22 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 8
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Thats a good insight. The car sat for several years before I acquired it.
Anyone have any diagrams or photos on how this line is routed through the car? Can't be as easy as disconnecting both ends and pulling. . . |
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01-19-2024, 01:15 PM
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PCA Member since 1988
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I would assume that there's more corrosion in that line that hasn't busted through yet, so you should replace it. I don't have a hydraulic clutch car, so I can't help you much on the routing. It "should" be straight through. However, pull up your center carpet and the rear access panel. and you should be able to see most of the routing. One caution: Do not pull it out before you have figured out how to fish the new line in. I would try to tape the new line to the old line, or a strong wire, so that when you pull it out, you will have something to help pull the new line back in the same way.
One other thing to consider: Rather than using the OE steel lines, use the copper-nickel lines instead. They are easy to flare and bend, and wont' corrode.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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01-19-2024, 02:02 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,500
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I might have one of those lines.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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01-19-2024, 02:13 PM
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Registered
Join Date: May 2004
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 6,156
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 You might want a Threaded Coupler to pull the replacement through when the time comes. Rigid lines are harder to pull through the tunnel than the Polyamide Fuel Lines. Len
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01-20-2024, 06:07 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2022
Posts: 8
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Quote:
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01-20-2024, 09:32 AM
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