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Shift rod seal
I tried replacing my leaking shift rod seal today. It has not gone well. Based on existing DIYs it looked like I would be able to puncture and lever the seal out from underneath the car. Instead it seems like I've managed to just absolutely mangle the existing seal without it coming out clean. At this point, I think most of the seal is out, but visibility is challenging (to say the least). There doesn't seem like there's anything left to "hook". Any suggestions are welcome.
Berndt ![]() ![]() |
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I’m sure you’ve tried everything sensible but when I replaced mine I made a small thin hook tool to push past the seal, twist and to then pull the seal out. The twist was to align the hook part behind the seal. It took a while and a lot of faffing but came out eventually. My gearbox was out of the car though, so was probably a lot easier than yours. Not much help but there are only so many ways to achieve this job.
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We’ll I can honestly say that was the most frustrating job I’ve ever done.
I ended up creating a tool that finally got a hook on it. Then had to use a wrench as a lever against the end of the shift rod to finally pull it out. I hope I didn’t damage the surrounding surfaces too much. ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Well done!
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
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Some come right out and others seem like they never will. Toss-up.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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patience is a virtue;-) good job
Ivan
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1985 911 with original 501 708 miles...807 421 km "The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein. |
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I'm getting ready to do this on my '88, but thankfully(?) I've dropped the engine to deal with a failed clutch. Clever idea for a tool - I may give that a shot.
Lawrence |
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Slow old car
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: SE PDX
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If you’ve dropped the engine and plan to separate the transaxle anyway, might I suggest you just remove the nose cone- makes the job much easier imo
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Mike 1980 911 SC 3.1 Coupe // 1986 VW Vanagon Syncro EJ22 // 2015 Macan Turbo // 2017 i3 REX |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
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G50s are easy with their flange.
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Also, since you’ve dropped the engine/trans you can actually see what you’re doing. Won’t be a hard job for you
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Michael
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Quote:
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I managed to do it from inside the car, with the car on the ground. I used the trick of drilling a hole in the metal outer collar of the seal, screwed in a tiny sheet metal screw, and levered it out. IIRC, I put two screws on opposite sides of the shaft.
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1973.5 911T with RoW 1980 SC CIS stroked to 3.2, 10:1 Mahle Sport p/c's, TBC exhaust ports, M1 cams, SSI's. RSR bushings & adj spring plates, Koni Sports, 21/26mm T-bars, stock swaybars, 16x7 Fuchs w Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, 205/55-16 at all 4 corners. Cars are for driving. If you want art, get something you can hang on the wall! |
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