[84 911] Pedal Cluster Removal + Clutch Adjustment Question

[GriffinPrice]

Hello Y'all,
84 3.2 Carrera Targa here. I started a clutch cable replacement job last weekend and have been having a bear of a time. I've heard in various places that replacing the clutch cable is pretty straightforward, as is adjustment, but I'm having a much more difficult time of it than I would normally expect.
While removing the old clutch cable, I saw that the bearing in my pedal cluster were completely gone. Absolutely no residue of the plastic bushings present. So I bought a brass bushing rebuild kit and decided to take the cluster out while doing the clutch job. I've run into two problems:

1. When I attached the clutch and adjusted it according to the procedure in Wayne's book and the Bentley manual, the clutch pedal initially sat too low to the floor. I pulled the clutch pedal up and adjusted another time, but I can't get the 1-1.2mm gap to close on the clutch end. Where should the clutch pedal sit when I do this? Against the floor? It's hard to tell because the pedal needs to be far back in order for the cable to be attached.
2. I can't get the brake linkage off of my brake pedal? I've removed the spring clip and it shifts back and forth, but there isn't enough room to pull it off the side of the shaft it is on. Does that make sense? Even when I push the brake pedal forward as much as I can, the linkage cannot slide off.

I've attached a photo below of my pedal cluster. I've gotten the four bolts mounting it to the floor off, but can't get it out without removing the brake linkage, which I can't get off of the brake pedal.

on another note, how do I access the bolt on the thin metal brace? It's either behind the clutch spring or behind the brake pedal. Either has terrible tool access.

[john walker's workshop]

It's not done that way. Up on the left side of the booster mount, in the front trunk, remove the 17mm wrench size bolt that attaches to that flat bar. Next, remove the upper clip and pin from that brake rod. With the 4 nuts off the pedal cluster and throttle and clutch cables removed from their levers, pull out the whole works. Scribe a line next to the flat bar for reference and align the flat bar back when you're done. Reinstall the complete assembly, just as it came out.

[GriffinPrice]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

It's not done that way. Up on the left side of the booster mount, in the front trunk, remove the 17mm wrench size bolt that attaches to that flat bar. Next, remove the upper clip and pin from that brake rod. With the 4 nuts off the pedal cluster and throttle and clutch cables removed from their levers, pull out the whole works. Scribe a line next to the flat bar for reference and align the flat bar back when you're done. Reinstall the complete assembly, just as it came out.

Thanks, John. That's very helpful. None of the manuals I have been reading have mentioned that approach. Thanks a ton!

[dgtlhybrd]

unrelated to the problem at hand but the roll pin on the clutch pedal can be a pain in the butt, some people have reported of it sliding out with ease - but if it doesn't wanna budge, id suggest taking it to a drill press and save yourself the trouble

[GriffinPrice]

Originally Posted by dgtlhybrd

unrelated to the problem at hand but the roll pin on the clutch pedal can be a pain in the butt, some people have reported of it sliding out with ease - but if it doesn't wanna budge, id suggest taking it to a drill press and save yourself the trouble

Thanks for the advice. I read that these were difficult, so I brought the entire pedal assembly into work and used a press to get that pin out. Fixturing was a huge pain in the butt:


The clutch pedal shaft was really frozen together; when I got it out I saw why. The shaft was cracked:

...so that's another weekend that I won't have the rubber back on the road while I wait for parts.

Disassembly was a bit of a pain but I got everything apart and took a few hours to sand off some rust and re-coat with epoxy:


When putting most things back together, I had to resort to the press to get stuff seated. Bearings, as well as the various concentric shafts. Is that normal? The technical article on this says that everything should just slide together nicely.

After getting it back together (with a new brake spring), the brake pedal does not return on its own. Is this something I should be concerned about now - should I ream out the bushing a bit - or is the master cylinder going to be providing most of the return force rather than the spring? I don't remember how this felt before I reinstalled it.

[john walker's workshop]

Should move freely. Never had to ream bushings. Use some long lasting grease on everything. Optimoly or the like.