Rear oil line replacement help

[911SCRVA]

In addition to the hard oil supply line problem I'm having (post below), I'm wondering if you have any advice on replacing the rear oil lines. Because of the cramped spaces, I'm wondering if it's possible to remove these oil lines. Any advice?

Some pics...

Crossover pipe line (seems like you need super human strength here. I've tried squeezing these together like a pair of scissors and no go. Plus there's very little room.)




Is there another way of positioning the wrench. Seems like this is the only position available.




Reservoir line (how can I get a wrench to move in such a cramped space?)





Reservoir line to thermostat (apply heat?)

[john walker's workshop]

A couple of 24 inchers helps a lot. You can heat the nuts a bit, or use an air hammer, gently against the nut points, in the loosening direction. just need to see them move a bit, then the wrench usually works.

[911SCRVA]

Thank you. I'll order a pair. Any recommendations? (I can't quite make out the name on yours). Also, do you not find the tight spaces hard to work in? Or is that just my inexperience talking?

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

A couple of 24 inchers helps a lot. You can heat the nuts a bit, or use an air hammer, gently against the nut points, in the loosening direction. just need to see them move a bit, then the wrench usually works.

[chrismorse]

I just removed the carrera cooler and the tank for cleaning/testing. I used a pair of wrenches from HF and two foot lengths of water pipe. This approach helps to counterhold the cooler and remove the nut, thus reducing the liklihood of damage.

The wrenches can be "extended" by using a 1 inch diameter cheater pipe. the wrenches come in 1/16th increments, 3/4 to 1-1/2. 1-1/4 is a nice fit on the cooler, while 1-7/16ths works on the oil line nuts, not snug, but works.

If the lines and nuts have been in service for a long while, I'd suggest a general cleaning of the area and carefull use of heat, perhaps guided by an infrared temp gauge.

The oil tank does not have a nut on the threaded fitting, (same as the thermostat), so heat might be advisable, before twisting the fitting out of the tank, or hosing the thermostat.

The beauty of the "service wrenches" is that the whole set is like 20-$30, so can be guiltlessly welded and ground on.
chris

[john walker's workshop]

Originally Posted by 911SCRVA

Thank you. I'll order a pair. Any recommendations? (I can't quite make out the name on yours). Also, do you not find the tight spaces hard to work in? Or is that just my inexperience talking?

Tractor Supply specials. Just saw them hanging there and life is good.
Tight areas, you just have to be creative. Leverage is king. Gentle use of an air hammer can be helpful at times. The nuts at the thermostat can be quite stuck, sometimes requiring a small disc cutter to slice through just enough to see the tips of the thermostat's aluminum threads, then split the nut.

[Jeff Alton]

Get correctlly sized wrenches.... Heat can be your friend. You can also use a cut-off disc or dremel to split the nut if the line is being replaced anyway....

[Jeff Alton]

Get correctlly sized wrenches.... they what John says.