a few 1971 911T questions

[Supergranule]

Hi, I'm new here. I've been lurking around this forum, but this is my first post.
I've got some questions about my 1971 911T that I'm restoring (my frist restoration, too). I've gotten the engine to run, but the fuel pump doesn't seem to be working (I've been filling up the carbs to get it to run...by the way, did 911Ts, or any 911 for that matter, come with Weber 40 TIPO carbs? 'cause thats what it has). Hardly any fuel is going from the tank to the pump. Is there anything I can do, or do I need to replace the fuel pump? The lines don't seem to be clogged, and I can blow bubbles in the gas tank through them (hehe).


By the way, where the the heck is the transmision number? The the only number I was able to find was 911 301 101 0R. How do I know what transmision my car has?

[Jeff]

Super welcome to the board. I will let the early car guys answer your fuel question, but the easy way to tell which transmission you have (71T came with the 901) is where 1st gear is. If it is left and down it is a 901, if it is left and up it is a 915.

[Cornpanzer]

Welcome to the board and congrats on having an early car =) Can you hear the fuel pump running? That is the most obvious sign. If you can hear it running you may want to disconnect the lines going to and from it and see if it will siphon fuel out of the can. Im not familiar exactly with the layout of the pump but basic troubleshooting rules say to isolate the systems to determine the problem. If you take your lines loose and can draw fuel out of another container then you may want to look for an obstruction in the tank.

[Supergranule]

ok, now I don't think the fuel pump is working at all. I put a hose from the pump to suck up gas from a bottle, and it doesn't do anything. I can't hear it either. The wiring is a mess, and I'm wondering if the pump is getting any power or if the pump is just dead.

I can't get the car to run for more than 10 seconds, and the front end is jacked up so I can't drive it to see where 1st gear is. I was wondering if I can find out what tranny it has by the trans number

[MFAFF]

A 71 with the 2.2l engine should have a 901 g-box with the dogleg first.
I think the 915 only came in with the 2.4l engine and it has a conventional pattern with fifth out on a limb.
But 72 MY (2.4l) came out in Sept 71....

The fuel pump should be quite loud when running. Certainly on my 2.4 you can hear it befor eth eengine catches....If its silent then its either dead or not getting power.

[thrown_hammer]

I am just glad to see another longhood coming back to life. Like they said the shift pattern is different. Just get in the car and go thru the gears. That should give a big clue.

[304065]

Granule,

Get yourself, if you don't already have, a good jack and a very good set of jack stands. Wayne sells 'em.

Raise the rear of your car and support it using jack stands under the torsion bar tubes. Don't jack on the bottom of the engine case-- use a jack plate tool in the square hole in the rocker.

With the car's tail in the air and well supported (push it gently to make sure it doesn't rock) slide under until you can see the center reinforcing rib on the gearbox. It will probably be grimy, so clean it off, and you will see the outline of some numbers-- at the forward end of the car, probably 911/01 and then a couple inches aft of there, something like 711XXXX-- if it is a "901" box. The 7 stands for 6 cyl, the 1 for five-speed, standard ratios, the 1 for 1971, and the last four are the serial number. If you have anything different, post it here and we can figure it out.

Now, with the car up in the air, check the fuel pump, which is mounted near the torsion tube on the port (driver's) side of the car. Check that the lines are not rotted, pulled off the pump, etc. With the ignition on the pump should run-- if it doesn't there's a two-pin white plastic connector located in the forward port corner of the engine compartment -- I think the wires are brown and red/brown (but check the wiring diagram on the pelican main board to be sure). If that's not connected this could be the problem.

Good luck! Let us know how it all works out. My race car is built on a '71T so I am particularly glad to see you rehabilitating one.

[West]

Welcome to the board Supergranule. I had a 71 Targa years ago. It had Zenith carbs on it, I believe that was the stock configuration. Disconnect the fuel pump from the stock wiring, and connect the positive lead to a hot wire on your fuse panel, then run a new ground to the other post on the pump. If the fuel pump doesn't run it's the pump, if it does, it's your wiring.

[kcope]

Nice to see another 71 T. Most of them had Zeniths, a few had Webbers. Mine also has Webbers But I'm sure their not original.
I had a starting problem a while ago and I remember that the fuel pump was loud enough to be heard when the ignition was on.
Remember, Use care when working on your fuel system.
I would listen for the pump first. Then make sure I had power to the pump next, check fuses etc. Lastly I would run the fuel line to a container and check for fuel flow.
Good luck

[DonDavis]

Supergranule,

Welcome!! You will love it here. However, you will soon find out that we are a visual bunch. Post pics when you can.

As far as the tranny, this may sound silly but is there a pattern on the shift knob? That does not mean it's correct, but.....
Go through the motions of shifting and feel for resistance indicating that you are going into reverse. Either left and up or right and down. You will be able to feel it.

And as mentioned above, use caution when checking for fuel flow. We want to see you here answering someone else's questions in few months.

[john70t]

For me personally, I would advise against jacking from the square jack-ports on the sides of the rockers. They are towards the center of a flat surface(bottom of rockers) and at least in my car had cracks in the welds next to them.
After vigerous exploring of the undercoating with a screwdriver, a portion of the bottom floor panel (also door sills and in front of the rear wheels) caved in and before a patch was welded/sealed. A pile of rust the size of half a softball piled on the floor and through the hole there was a bad section of the internal supporting brace/panel that connects the quarter-panel and the seat bucket that was missing.
Also the factory jack pad is smooth on the suface and seems like like the jack will slip off. Not something to joke with on a $6,000up frame.

I was jacking the car from the engine with a 2x6 but after reading the posts switched to the transmission cross-piece for the rear and the cross-piece forward of the tank for the front. Not sure if this is best but it is folded thick steel.

[Supergranule]

Tanks for all the help everyone. I have a feeling that I'm going to be asking lots of questions here.
I'm pretty sure its a 5 speed...I sure hope it is. I'll get some pics up of the car soon