OXY Sensor Still Lit Despite New Oxygen Sensor
 

So the oxygen sensor light came on and figured why not change it out with a new OEM sensor from Pelican. Replacement went well and actually corrected some starting and idling issues I was having. Engine fires on first turn of the key and idles higher then kicks down, did not do that prior. Would start on second or third attempt then rev up and down many times before settling into smooth idle. Took for a test drive and ran excellent. Figured that was the fix buy oxygen light remained lit. Disconnected battery and touch positive and negative cables together to clear out the code. It remains lit. What else might be causing the oxygen light to remain lit? Car runs great but annoying.

Pop out the speedo and about 10" in is a black box with a white button. Long screwdriver and push the button.

Does that clear out the code? I assumed pulling the pos/neg cables and completing the circuit by connecting the terminals would achieve the same result much easier.

I assume it's an SC or earlier. There ain't no code. Just a mechanical box that turns the light on every 15k miles.

Maybe add the year and model to your signature for future reference.

Please review; you ask for advice, a person whose handle is their workshop name gives you the correct procedure, and you reject it with a process of your own and which isn't applicable to your car? SMH

What code?? You know you are in the 911 Tech forum that deals with air-cooled cars, yes? If water-cooled, look here, but you need to state year and model no matter where you post, "911" is a tad vague..

Thank you, my mistake for sure. It is a 1983 SC. I will follow your recommended procedure.

Just demonstrating my ignorance, best if I stick with basic mechanical projects and leave issues like this to the pros.

We all need to start somewhere, every wrench has that one job they hate. Mine is removing interior trim panels, door, trunk, pillar etc… They never seem to go back the same.

Removing the speedometer is fairly straightforward. A little less room for the non electronic models because of the speedometer cable. The ‘83 SC was electronic (if my memory serves me right) so you will have a little more room than if you had the speedometer cable.

John Walker is a great resource here, he has forgotten more than most will ever know.

If you haven’t already done so check out the technical articles. Always a great reference point.

I can appreciate your challenge with interior panels, I have experienced that as well on a previous 68 912. I am adding tools to the toolbox with each new project, which is not saying much since my toolbox started with a cell phone and a credit card. I will give the speedo removal a try. I will take your advice and look that up in the technical forum first. Thanks for the reminder.

In hindsight, I think due to my lack of knowledge with these cars I used the wrong terminology. I was thinking of a simple electrical circuit being opened by the failure of the sensor, not a code as with more modern cars. I heard of a tip to connect battery terminals to close that circuit again after replacing the part but apparently that was bad advice. Thanks again for the correct advice!