Bilstien inserts for boge front struts
 

Ok, thanks to a previous thread, I got the front inserts out of my boge front struts.

I have the bilstien sport replacement inserts ready to go, but something is wrong... the insert has brass colored threaded things on it that can be removed. it appears that i am supposed to only use the one with the threads on the inside since the strut is threaded on the outside.

i emptied the strut housing of all oil and parts, inserted the strut ok, but the brass tightening piece only goes a couple of turns before tightening up?!?!? doesnt appear to be cross threaded...

the strut appears to be in all the way, i removed the strut to try to screw it down and it still wouldnt tighten more than a few threads down.

any thoughts?

-bernie

*&%*% the left and right two replacement struts appear to have different size locking nuts. WTF? one is too small (see above) the other is too big (it threads on but is way loose).

ok,im talking to myself here, but for the record...

The thread's that were way too tight on the right fit ok on the left hand side. the loose threads were loose on the right, but I tightened them down on the assembled strut and it seems to be ok.

I'll contact blistieieien tomorrow to inquire about the differences in the two threaded nuts. quite odd, much different sizes, different finishes et cetera. (different supplier?)

out come
 

Let's heard the final out come.
I'm thinking of doing the same job on mine.

called blistien today... somewhat helpfull... they want me to go through the distributor (pelican) to request the replacement part. the two threaded nuts should be exactly the same. they are clearly different.

As for the installation... if I had to do it again, it would take 30 minutes per side.

You need BIG channel locks.

• Loosen the top strut nut with the car on the ground.... seems to be easier to loosen but it was still a biatch. I used the channel locks on the washer and a socket on the nut to just get it loose.
  
  Jack up the car, remove the wheel. Jack up the wheel assembly to remove pressure... then completely unbolt the top bolt, slowly lower the strut down.
  
  Use those BIG channel locks to remove the strut top.
  
  Cover the calipers and rotor to avoid oiling them up.
  
  rotate the wheel to allow the strut to barely make it out of the wheel well (this is the short cut way to do it and it took several attempts) watch out for your brake line and the brake pad sensor wire.
  
  put a tarp down for the coming mess and get a bag ready to dump the oily assembly into. remove the guts.
  
  I used a turkey baster and some rubber tubing to suck out the rest of the oil. clean it out good before you put it back in with the silverware ;)
  
  throw away the rubber ring that holds the shield during shipping
  
  Insert new insert (ha)
  
  My insert actually came with two nuts one with internal threads and one external... you just use one.
  
  when you order the strut, ask for the tool... i didnt get it so i used channel locks to tighten down the insert.
  
  jack the wheel assembly up to get the insert threads through
  
  on goes the washer and nut and tighten.

then undo it/redo it 50 times like i did just for kicks

no clue if this is the right way to do it, but its done... makes me want to get an impact wrench. thanks to those (JW especially) that answered my previous thread.

-bernie