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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 211
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FD Pressure Regulator Parts
I know that Pelican offers a full kit to replace pressure regulator - but for those who simply want to replace the offending parts (o-rings, etc.), what parts are suggested to be replaced?
For example, on my 1981 engine, and thanks to Tony and other CIS gurus, it seems like there are 2-3 o-rings that need replacing. But, for the life of me, I cannot find anywhere that provides the specific size of the o-rings or what type to use. And do only the o-rings need replacing? Thanks all. Last edited by tito911s; 03-04-2017 at 07:46 AM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,481
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If they're not torn, they're probably ok. Just blow out the valve and reassemble and recheck pressures.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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O-rings.......
Eric,
PM me your address and will mail a few o-rings for your primary pressure regulator. There are two (2) different tiny o-rings you need for the PPR. Tony |
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Severe Automotive Issues
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I used the precision machinery kit they sell on ebay. Bought the alignment tools tool. Has every single oring the distributor uses.
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 211
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Thank you
John, Tony, et al --
Thank you for response. Based on all my testing, I believe this will solve my problem! Cheers. |
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Fd-077.........
Eric,
Your primrary pressure regulator for FD-077 needs only one (1) o-ring not 2 as I mentioned earlier. I will send it as priority mail by tomorrow morning. ![]() Hope this would correct your warm starting problem. Keep us posted. Tony |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,481
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There's one on the piston too. That one tends to trap debris and cause leak down.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Another saved by JW...........
Quote:
John, You just saved me from another blunder. I knew there were two (2) o-rings needed for the primary valve but when I pulled the PPV, I inadvertently left the piston inside the FD and was baffled to see only one (1). A senior moment.......knew there were 2. ![]() Glad you mentioned the piston. Otherwise, I would be sending the the envelope with just one instead of two different o-rings. Well, this was not first time you have rescued me from my predicaments. Thank you. Tony |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 211
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Update: Fuel Distributor Primary Pressure Regulator
Thank you gentlemen. Pulled regulator today and, while I'm no expert, things look okay. The o-ring closer to the bolt head was a little loose . . but the other one felt tight.
![]() ![]() ![]() Here's a review of what I have attempted to do to fix my warm-start issue. Conducted Control pressure, cold pressure, warm pressure and residual pressure. Car: 1976 911 with 1981 SC engine. WUR: 090 FD: 0 438 100 077 Ambient temperature is 65-70F/~18C: Control pressure jumped to 4 bar and settled at 1.5 bar. Cold pressure settled at 2 bar. Warm pressures as follows: 2.5 bar @ 45 seconds 3 bar @ 90 seconds 3.5 bar @ 3 min 3.6 bar at ~ 4 minutes Residual pressures as follows: Shut off FP and gauge fell immediately to 2.7 bar 1 minute after FP shut off @ 2.5 bar 5 minutes @ 1.9 bar 10 minutes @ 1.8 bar 30 minutes @ 1.7 bar 60 minutes @ 1.3 bar 90 minutes @ .8 bar Checked accumulator and fuel pump check valve, with Tony's help and they checked ok. Next, I'm going to get some techron and drive the car as much as I can this week (weather allowing here). Last thing I can think of is injectors leaking... |
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Registered
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Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 211
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Update: Fuel Distributor Primary Pressure Regulator
double post - delete post.
Last edited by tito911s; 03-06-2017 at 12:43 PM.. Reason: double uploaded. |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 211
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Update: Fuel Distributor Primary Pressure Regulator
...
Last edited by tito911s; 03-06-2017 at 01:41 PM.. Reason: triplicate post... |
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Registered
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Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 211
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Warm start issue persists
First, thanks to Tony for o-rings for primary pressure regulator. Carb cleaned the bits and used some compressed air to blow out hole in fuel distributor.
Starts cold great (always has). Let it run for 15-20 minutes. Shut off. Restart immediately. Fires and holds idle great. Turn off and wait 5-10 minutes. Try to start, and it immediately fires/dies. Crank for 3-5 seconds and fires. Stumbles. My warm start problem persists. The only thing I have not checked are the injectors. Before I pull and flow/leak test, I'm thinking drive the car to 1/4 tank. Put techron (or similar, any suggestions?) drive it till close to empty. Repeat. |
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Not to hijack but a suggestion, an old story, and a question.....
First the suggestion: double check for vacuum leaks. After several tests I found a smoke test to be most successful. Story.... when I bought my SC Turbo I found the PO had removed the piston from the Pressure regulator and stretched the spring to compensate (along with a few other blunders). I ordered the new regulator and was disappointed that it did not come with a new spring. I wanted to replace the spring but couldn't find a source. Question.....any ideas on the source of a new spring? Its only been 8 years.....
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Steve 1981 SC Steel Widebody Outlaw in Pacific Blue and Artic White, 930/51 to 3.2l, K27 7006 Turbo, P&P Twin Plug heads, Twinfire Ignition, BLwur, Ruf Intercooler, Powerhaus headers, Zork, CIS Euro FD, 009 injectors, DOD, DP Lid, 044 pump, 930 4 sp LSD, Mocal 44 w/fan, LM2, Brembo, Retroair, Euromeisters. |
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