My powder coated tin and suspension parts have held up well.
Relatively cheap and effective

Had my Targa cap powder coated many years ago. Forgot how long it lasted but was longer than I expected. Not sure this is accurate but have heard PC does not do heat well. Perhaps there's "new" formula I'm unaware of or I'm dead wrong. (I've got cylinder head air baffles to deal with.)
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Been playing with my 6-year old Cerakote wondering if their claims of “1-year shelf life” is genuine or a sales maneuver. After a few tests, am dealing with uncertainty about this. Calling Cerakote Monday to see what they say about “shelf life.” In the meantime, I fiddle with my vintage stuff…

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665862028.jpg

Wood? It works. But then this coated bit has not yet seen life on an engine. So confirmation pends. (Putting 3 of these on top of shroud to move ig wires off fan housing.) Did 2 coats applied with a small brush a few minutes apart. 1 coat with a brush doesn't work well. Is "Black Velvet." Tried a rattle can paint here and paint reacted to the wood’s grain. On tighter grain, the paint had significantly more gloss. Cerakote has NO similar reaction.

Am on Tom’s trail considering his concoction of industrial Rust-Oleum. Also after Richard as he’s applied satin black powder coat to the “tin” and liked it. If he says he likes it… I’d 2nd it. Question asked him is if he has used powder on the cylinder’s baffling metal. Going PC route fails to feed my DIY addiction (so not thrilled with that path. Still, am practicing open mind.) Trick here is the heat on the baffles is surely more than what the engine tin experiences.

If anyone knows what exterior cylinder temp is on exhaust side… please say.
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Why not use the factory rubber bits for the plug wires?

Not sure which ones you mean RS. Tried some VW ones made of plastic...they cracked.
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Like these, they go into your shroud at different spots
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/90160959100.htm?pn=901-609-591-00-OEM&SVSVSI=4245&DID=16963

Thanks for that RS :)
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1667140953.jpg

Stove coatings. All finishes are very near matte. Both brands require heat curing.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1667140998.jpg

To rid metal of WD40, everything was submerged in Acetone for a few hours, agitated on occasion. Parts looked clean when removed from the bath. Regardless, parts were then baked at 300 dF for 30 minutes. Can see result above. Some parts took 3 baths + bakes till there was no sign of oil. This was usually where metal has seams.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1667141145.jpg

Decision to go with Cerakote came down to heat resistance = 1200 dF. Cylinder air baffles being the drivers of this choice. Don’t believe the baffles are subject to that temp level… but rather overkill it now and NOT find regret later. For the rest of the parts, 1200 dF is obviously way over-the-top. Thought about using Cera only for the baffles, and a different coating for the remaining parts. Would have been interesting but with all else on my plate, I simplified.

Chris, Tom, Richard, and RS… product input you provided is much appreciated. Is valued for future use.

Shot single, wet coat. Believe 2 coats---2nd right after first---would have resulted in a bit more sheen.


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I PM’d Tom asking if he could show me the look he achieves with Industrial “2k” Rust-Oleum with his recipe applied. Here's vid he linked me to. Compared to Cerakote’s Black Velvet, this Rust-Oleum appears a genuine black-BLACK. As I know it from Tom, the gloss level can be adjusted by altering his recipe. Fine body of work Tom! Appreciate the ref… or maybe not—I’m second guessing my choice now! :) Wait… Come to think of it, temp for this stuff was not discussed. Am not familiar with 912 parts so can’t tell if there's anything amidst your mass of parts that's subject to cylinder-area heat. ??? Beyond the coating, I can appreciate the amount of time & effort you dedicated to cleaning... impressive by itself!


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