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Eng-o-neer
 
Tremelune's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 3,108
Talking 3.0 into longhood - Engine prep, ITBs, and EFI?

I have a 1970 911T that I plan to put a '79 "big port" 3.0 in. I'm in no rush, as the 2.2L is currently running well with clean Webers, but this is my first time, and I can see that I'll need a lot of research and hand-holding. For the sake of minimizing down time, I was hoping to get the 3.0 completely ready to drop in, maybe even dyno'd and tuned, and then pickle it until I'm ready to put it in the car.

The swap doesn't intimidate me, but the little odds and ends that I just wouldn't know to think about do. I want to do everything I can to clean, replace, and upgrade everything without having to...do it several times, or wind up with a combination of components that just weren't designed to work well together...

3.0 History

I pieced together a bit of history for this engine...It had a crank-out "full" rebuild by Gennady Soykher in 2008ish for a guy who raced in a "stock" class. It has seen 4-6 days on the track since, and some street driving to keep it alive; maybe 6k miles total.

According to Gennady (relying on his memory of the distant past), it has 95mm stock pistons (might be Euro), 993 Turbo studs, new rockers, ARP rod bolts, uprated springs/retainers. I believe it's got a stock crank, stock cams, stock ports, with 10.5 compression ratio and a 6,900rpm redline.

The engine has good leakdown numbers, and I'm inclined to leave it wholly intact if I can. There are no big leaks, but definitely some evidence of grime and wetness in spots I'd like to attend to. If there's a prudent reason to open it up, I'm listening, but otherwise the plan is to put an intake and exhaust on the it and put it in the car.





3.0 prep

I've never bought a used engine for a swap. What are the wise things to do while you're in there? It's out of the car, and I'd like to keep it in the car for a decade or so...What should I do now?

My current plan was to:

- Clean it.
- Replace all triangle of death seals.
- Test thermostat.
- Ensure temp sensor works with my '70 dash gauge.
- Resurface oil breather cap with sandpaper and a flat surface.
- Replace main seal.
- Extra-clean the oil cooler and maybe replace those O-rings.
- Install ITB intake, SSI heat exchangers, and stock Bischoff muffler.
- Check cam timing and chain, replace gaskets.
- Adjust the valves, replace valve cover gaskets and hardware.
- Repair/replace whatever that bullet thing is in the fan housing...Mine's cracked.
- Check torque on all external fasteners.
- Pickle it with fogging oil, plastic intake/exhaust caps, and desiccant plugs.

I've been told that 964 cams would be a nice upgrade, but I would expect replacing the camshaft to be Rather Involved...They weren't used in the build due to class rules.

Anything else that would be wise to do to a used engine that you trust but have not verified...?

Fuel & Ignition

I wound up buying a bunch of slightly used ITB/EFI components, and now I'm trying to figure out what will be good to use and what I should replace (if anything). I know enough about this stuff to be dangerous and buy products, but not enough to be confident I've got the best system for tuning or efficiency. I'm not chasing the last bit of power; I'm mainly interested in quick revs, smoothness, predictability, and low maintenance...but I sure wouldn't hate a screamer for a mountain road if it wouldn't take too much to improve on what I have...

When people put engines together, do they usually test and tune them on a stand/bench first? Or is the only way to really dial them in to get the whole car on rollers? I'm just trying to find ways to save cash, and dyno/tuning runs aren't something I can do myself, so there's a cost there. I'd love to do all of this once, and I drive this car at sea level when it's hot as hell, and a mile up a mountain when it's below freezing.

So, here are my components. Are any of them junk or simply won't work with this engine? Anything that's worth replacing for something more modern or full of features?

- RHD ITBs with 42mm throttles, 40mm head face, and 45mm trumpets
- Raised fuel rails
- 6-26 lb/hr injectors
- Fuel pressure regulator
- '74-77 throttle linkage plate
- AMP'd Microsquirt injection/ignition controller
- GoingSuperFast 36-1 crank trigger wheel
- DIYAutotune IGN-6 tower coil pack (looks like EDIS)
- DIYAutotune Quadspark, 3-channel ignitor





Odds & Ends

Random outstanding questions that I'm listing here, mainly for myself:

1) What do I do about a fuel return line, pump, and tank? Can I do this with the carbs in there?

2) Do I have room in the front right fender for a battery box, AC condenser, Carrera cooler, and fan?

3) What I should I do about the clutch and flywheel? Replace? Lightweight?

4) The gearbox feels fine, but maybe I should open or reseal that while it's out? Maybe my synchros could be improved...I fear thousands disappearing if I send this out to be opened up...I'd like an LSD and a much taller 5th, but the short gearing of the 911/01 is nice in the twisties. Not sure I want to tackle this mid-swap...

Anyway, let the muddling begin...

Old 09-12-2022, 12:42 PM
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You sticking with 901 trans?
Old 09-12-2022, 12:47 PM
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Eng-o-neer
 
Tremelune's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 3,108
Quote:
Originally Posted by 76dno View Post
You sticking with 901 trans?
Yup. I'm not too worried about it. My understanding is that it's most likely to blow up in 1st, and, well...I don't have much reason to pin it in 1st, so I figure I'd just go easy until I was up to speed, never dump the clutch, etc.

If I take it apart, I would add some reinforcement, but I might leave it alone, as it shifts pretty well. Worst case, it explodes and I put in a 915...but I'd rather not do that if I can avoid it.

Old 09-12-2022, 12:51 PM
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