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Fwiw, those temp sensors, if VDO, have quite a large margin of error, something like +/- 15%. I know as mine was way off and I had to reset the calibration table in my Megasquirt. Obviously you can’t do that but you should be able to test it to determine if/how much it’s off
Here’s the calibration chart. Test your out before you start playing with the gauge. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2610aca1cc.jpg |
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I'd happily have given you credit, but couldn't remember your handle/what thread... |
Some updates...boiling temp sensor test came out to 250. I also measured the ohm resistance at ambient and it was pretty accurate with the chart. I'm willing to bet that initial jump on the needle I'm getting is the difference from it being accurate. Can someone please take a close picture with the resting position of the needle so I can compare? Another interesting thing, if I remove both the sender and oil pressure wires it only bounces to 120 from resting.
Also, sender p/n I had was 90164163200. https://i.ibb.co/y8XrXST/20221013-172827.jpg |
This is where I set mine at power off based on where others I know have their's set. I then confirmed the 212° measurement and it was accurate.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665705342.jpg This is an example from a different car (famoroso). http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665705478.jpg |
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https://i.ibb.co/p0hZQPv/20221013-202702.jpg |
Your sender is for a 76 and lower. Your gauge is inaccurate, but matches the sender, at least for the scale. Good news is that running at 250 means your running at 210 which is fine.
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The temp gauge is a single module that fits into the larger assembly. You can remove that and see if the original face is below the white dial. If it is, then you can confirm if it is the same type - not a 340° gauge, and not an unnumbered scale gauge. The fact that there is a 40° difference suggests that the sender and the gauge maybe are not matched.
The other thing you can do is set the needle to 212 when the sender is at boiling, then reset the water to cold and track it as it comes up to boil and see if they rise in unison. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665710128.jpg |
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The above is a really inspired approach as it A) doesn't require R&Ring the gauge AND the sender like the below method. Also, it keeps the factory sender wiring in the test loop, unlike the conventional method below. Bravo Richard! Conventional testing method... Quote:
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I like your method too, but didnt have access to such a fancy device such as your wife's.... Yours also reminds me a bit of this http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1665773974.jpg which is cool. |
Just an update if anyone else has the problem. Ended it being the wrong sensor, I had the brass one, needed the later chrome one ( 911-606-112-00)
https://i.ibb.co/dMQ1Lvv/20221114-163812.jpg |
Hey thanks for bringing closure to this.
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Excellent result and I also appreciate the closure. :)
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