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Join Date: Oct 2022
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Driver's side washer is blocked!

On my 1987 911 Porsche Cab the driver's side window sprayer is blocked. The left side sprays water over the window. Mechanic took a little time trying to unblock it by using a long pin to clear it, and put hand over left side so more pressure was created for the right window sprayer. He could not unclog it.

Any ideas on why this is happening, and how to get it to work.

Thanks

Old 10-25-2022, 01:11 PM
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Slow old car
 
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When my washer nozzles were gummed up I pulled the tube off the back side of the pump and hooked up my air compressor (rubber tipped blower gun) with the pressure turned WAY down, then slowly increased pressure until both sides were squirting washer fluid. Shouldn't take much. In the older cars there are a host of check valves and connectors, so be careful not to over-do it and blow everything to pieces.
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1980 911 SC 3.1 Coupe // 1986 VW Vanagon Syncro EJ22 // 2015 Macan Turbo // 2017 i3 REX
Old 10-25-2022, 01:41 PM
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I’m in the same boat. My washer pump was dead and after replacing that I just get passenger side squirting.

I’m pretty sure it’s the check valve which attaches to the nozzle, but I haven’t had the time to fix it. Also, access there seems like a bit of a PITA. Maybe I’ll try the air compressor route?


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Old 10-26-2022, 05:40 PM
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Behind the Sun
 
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Remove and put in the ultrasonic

Or just buy a new one

It's really not a big deal
Old 10-27-2022, 07:01 AM
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check valve starts to dissolve over many years and it completely plugs up , probably just easier to replace. Not sure if our host stocks them.

found this :

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_washer/911_washer.htm

https://blog.*******.com/how-to-replace-windshield-washer-nozzles-wiper-blades-air-cooled-porsche-911

yeah wont let me post a link from that place that has lifetime warranties on parts ... big surprise.. .even if its just an article to help someone.
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Last edited by theiceman; 10-27-2022 at 07:40 AM..
Old 10-27-2022, 07:33 AM
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When I replaced my old washer lines, using a heat gun really helps when removing the old and new tubing. Getting your hands under the cowl is a beast trying to get the nozzle barb depressed to pop out. The check valves are bit easier since they pull right off once warmed up. Also there’s a black rubber sleeve that was on the old connection as sort of a clamp, I used a heat shrink tubing to replace these which would keep the lines a bit more snug to the check valves and connections. See pic.



As stated in this duplicate post, I cleaned my check valves and disassembled the pump, but bought spares here at PP just in case.

Old 10-27-2022, 08:21 AM
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Yep, I also used the heat gun to remove the old washer lines. I couldn't get them off without it. It worked like a charm.
Old 10-27-2022, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theiceman View Post
check valve starts to dissolve over many years and it completely plugs up , probably just easier to replace. Not sure if our host stocks them.
^^^ Yeh, this.

Our host certainly used to supply them - literally first job I did on my 911 after purchase was to replace the hood shocks (replacements still working great 15 years on), and then replace the old washer lines, Tees and check valves and fit a new pump (original removed). All the valves, jets etc were completely plugged, and the lines were stiff & inflexible. I just cut them off, warmed ends of the new lines in a mug of freshly-boiled water for 15 seconds - easy to work with.

Deal with the sediment in 40 year old check valves or washer jets - when new ones are relatively so cheap? "Pick your battles"

Yeh, I know the later (heated) ones aren't that cheap, so I would maybe have a go with ultrasonic cleaning or backflushing those. Kind of a no-brainer for the early, non-heated ones though...

I spent longer aiming the new washer jets (with a pin) than any other part of the job- including replacing the hood shock clips, which are kind of awkward...

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Old 10-27-2022, 10:49 AM
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