Garage Flooring question

[autobonrun]

I just received two estimates to have an Epoxy coating placed on my floor. The price was outrageous so I'm looking at other options. I don't want to use the one square foot squares because of the time and seams. I'm trying to find if any of you have specifically used this product or one like it. I would be using three large sections to cover the entire floor, so I'd only have two seams to worry about.

http://www.bltllc.com/default.htm

It comes in the coin pattern or the ridged pattern. The total would be less than 1/3rd the cost of the epoxy coating. Supposedly, adhesive is not required. I'm trying to get the floor done this fall so I can order a lift next year.

[Emission]

The "seams" on VCT (vinyl composite tile) are nearly invisible. They are manufactured with an amazingly clean (and straight) tolerance. In fact, after a polishing seams are darn near gone. At <$200/bay, you can't beat it.

(Just defending my VCT).

Pic is of a black and white tile "seam" with my aluminum threshold.

[3.2 CAB]

Hi, I coated my previous floor with a 3 part coating, you could roll a car on dollies, engine hoist, jacks, etc. it never effected the finish. I think it was put out by PPG or BASF, can't remember. The biggest problem I have with the products in the link are, the coin pattern would be a pain trying to roll heavy small wheeled items around, need as smooth of surface, for creepers jacks, etc. I did not see anything about how much pressure they would take, they might not tear or put a hole in it, but it would probably be a problem trying to roll something around after weight was on it due to compression of the flooring. I had some of the heavy rubber/ or compossion flooring, that had diamond plate pattern, everytime the jack or dollie would hit one of the raised bumps, it was a pain to get it started again, too much work. I am just trying to relate some of my previous problems, with raised pattern floors, and also any that would compress under weight. If the concrete guys had not done such a good job on my new garage floor, what they called a hard float finish. It actually has a shine to it, liquids don't soak in. I would probably go back with the self applied epoxy. Good luck on your quest.

[Pat S]

I followed Emission's lead and did VCT as well.
I really like it a lot so far. The wife and I layed it in a weeked and total cost for adhesive and materials was right around $500


Pat

[john70t]

It makes sense considering the alternatives: peeling with the Behr and a second morgage with the U-coat-it.
Strong enough for light-duty floor jacks/stands sounds sufficient.

[david914]

I don't have my garage built yet, but I have used VCT. Think about it: It's relatively inexpensive. If you damage it, you can easily replace the damaged piece. It comes in several colors, and it's easy to install. Look in any public school building, hospital, etc. They all use it, and for good reason. Good stuff.

[tsuter]

Don't like one foot squares? Put in two foot squares.

One thing I've noticed is people like what they got if they got a nice floor at all... and poo poo everthing else.
And if they got no floor, then they poo poo everything.

"Racedeck" tile floors

[widebody911]

I've been hemming and hawing myself over this, and I'm leaning heavily towards VCT.

[autobonrun]

The quotes I got for the professionally installed 5 step quartz epoxy floor range from $3400 to $6000. They'll produce any color combination I want. I was looking at this tan and red option, then I was going to get a red Rotary 4 post lift. This price is for a three bay area that totals 34 ft wide by 24 ft deep. No way I'd pay that much. It's nice, but besides the price, everything must be off of the garage floor 4-5 days with no cars on it for another 2 or 3 days.





The VCT looks like an option that I will consider again. I did do a search of past discussions on this topic and recall the VCT option. I also talked to Armstrong Customer Service today and they said they don't sell a product they recommend for garages although many use their products successfully for that application. This is primarily due to the weight of the car and heat associated with the tires.

Going with larger VCT squares like 2' by 2' is an option but if this BLT marterial will roll out in three 10' by 24' sections, then lay flat without adhesive, I may give it a try. I'll try to find out more details from the company next week. I'm considering the Black flooring so stains won't show as much. With good lighting, the garage should still be bright enough. By the way, the information about the difficulty rolling items over the raised design flooring is good feedback. If I do buy this product, I'll go with the coin design rather than the ribbed type, although the ribbed would be great for catching water and draining it toward the door.


By the way Emission, what did you use to fasten down your aluminum threshold?

[Crachian]

By the way Emission, what did you use to fasten down your aluminum threshold?

Yeah, I also would like to know this as a solution to the edge problem has escaped me. That looks clean.

And what did you do at the walls for a cove base?


Let me get this right, Sam's Club sells the big rubber mat for $170 and Griot's sells the same thing for $300 + $30 shipping. Perceived value is amazing. Well, in fairness Griot's does sell a rubber cleaner.

[thomasalva]

Has anyone tried one of the "big rubber mats" from Sam's? It looks good from their description:

http://www.samsclub.com/eclub/main_shopping.jsp?n=0&oidPath=0%3a-23542%3a-32122%3a-32123%3a-32137%3a-32153%3a691445&coe=0

Shawn
89 Coupe

[Joeaksa]

Was also looking at using the epoxy paint on my garage but am now looking at the industrial VCT from HD or Lowes. The roll on mat looks interesting as well but not real excited about the texture.

JoeA

[Plavan]

I'm getting ready to VCT my new garage. I have used the grey epoxy in my last house with great results. Now I just have to much stuff to move around so the VCT tile will be a better choice for me this go around.
FYI- they make the VCT tile with the self adhesive backing now... I have 4 "test" squares in my garage right now. They hold up very well. Best of all they are full colors (not spackled with different colors in the tile) Of course I will be going with the black/white tile mix . They are 89 cents a sq. foot. A little more than the other VCT tile, but you do not need to worry about spreading adhesive. It also looks better than the "color mix" in the other VCT tile.

[Joeaksa]

Chad,

I looked at this as well but the self sticking VCT is thinner than the "industrial" tiles which you have to lay down glue. I would rather have the thicker tiles considering that the car will be sitting in it.

The glue is not fun but I just did a whole room of ceramic tiles last week and anything after that is a breeze!

Joe

[JP911]

What type of prep do you need to do before laying the VCT tiles? My 25 year old garage floor has seen many, many stains from oil, grease, paint, etc. Do I need to clean really well, use chemical treatments, acid etch, other?

[TerryH]

I did the Rustoleum Epoxy for $100. It's only a few months old so I can't say much except I really like it so far. I have drug floor jacks and metal chairs across it without any evidence of scuff or damage. It was very easy to apply to my new garage floor. If I have to add a coat every 4-5 yrs. I can live with that too. Just hope it lasts THAT long.

[Joeaksa]

JP....

A lot less prep than if the floor was going to be painted! That is another reason why I am not wanting to do the paint.

As well I just cannot move everything out of the garage and leave it out somewhere for 3-5 days as required for the paint...

JoeA

[cantdrv55]

I've never laid tile before so i'm wondering how to prep my garage floor too. The concrete has cracks and uneven in some places. I can fill the cracks but what about the uneveness?

[jester911]

For the floor that is uneven you need to get some floor leveler.
It isn't expensive and you can get it at your local hardware or depot. It mixes with water and it pours out and almost levels it self. It sets up fairly quickly and you trowel it smooth.

Let it dry at least 24 hours before you tile over it. If you don't get the floor smooth, the tile will show it and it will also probably crack

[lateapex911]

After painiting the 100 year old garage the day I moved into m 100 yr old house......I can report that 4 years later, I am ready to do something else.

I killed myself with the cleaners and acids, dryed with fans, towels airconditioning for days, tehn painted, and moisture continues to lift the paint years later. No surprise as there was no vapor barrier 100 yrs ago.

Not to mention chemical spills and jack damage.

I like the idea of a mechanical system that has local replacement possibilities.

But bumps will make sweeping impossible, and the larger sheets make repairs difficult.

What are the best square tiles for the application?