Just updating as I work through my issues. This is the first of the cold start issues I have. A rough initial 10 seconds. I have solved this part today. Video of rough initial below.

https://youtube.com/shorts/F9COYRa_hIc?feature=share

My AFM wiper arm was adjusted incorrectly. The voltage being sent to the DME was roughly 0.02V with barn door completely shut. From Salcellers post I noticed it should be 0.25V completely shut. So I adjusted the wiper arm to get it to this figure.

Well now she starts, and doesn't hunt, just straight up to about 1100 rpm, then lowers slowly.

Now I need to keep tackling the 600 rpm issue.

Right, I hate threads where the issue is never solved and you read 5 pages and you are left with a cliff hanger. So, I seem to have solved my issue.

What did I do? Bought an AFR gauge and reset the AFM fuelling. When warm my AFRs were perfect! Also good piece of mind, knowing the live reading. Let me be clear though, I had already Rebuilt the entire intake system and made sure I had zero air leaks.

Then I continued to pull my hair out for another 6 months. The issue I then had was that the car would cold start and Idle would fluctuate massively for the first 40 seconds of the warm-up sequence where its supposed to sit at 1100rpm. The rpm then sits nicely around 800rpm and stays there till fully warm. I was chasing my tail again contemplating a new CHT sensor, even though I knew it wasn't that.

I then watched greasyfingers YouTube channel when he tried to sort a hard cold start issue. He solved this by buying a new ICV. Well actually by buying two new ICVs. He tried his friends one and he had the exact same starting issues. He then tried a third one and it all of a sudden worked perfectly.

https://youtu.be/kcTkFjOt8Kc?si=djxhLXoGmvouCcnK

So, I had already replaced my ICV with a new unit. So never looked at this again. I was trying and changing so many things that I never thought that maybe the new ICV wasn't functioning correctly. I then found a thread on Pelican where a fellow Aussie ran into the same issue. Bought a brand new ICV valve from FVD, and it was faulty.

Luckily for me, the company I bought my ICV valve from, sent me two by mistake. So I looked in my parts bin, and pulled my second brand new ICV valve out and plugged it in.

My car was already warm so I started it just to see if there was any difference in rpm and there was. It was running very low, so I turned the air screw up and adjusted the idle AFR. I had to turn the air screw out about 2 full turns. This made me feel positive that perhaps I had found my fix.

Fast forward to today and I cold started her. She sat at 1100 rpm perfectly then slowly dropped to 800rpm. Full warm she was sitting at 800rpm with afr of 14.3.

After 1.5 years of fixing random small issues and going down dead ends, she is finally running 100% I am beyond happy!

From my experience, I would say,

-Fix all air leaks, in my case, intake runners off and rebuild everything.
- If your AFM has been messed with, just buy a AFR Gauge. Set fuelling correctly
- ICV buy the best one you can from a good seller. No eBay Volvo ones, you might end up buying more than one.

Thanks to everyone on Pelican for helping me with this.