Barn find 1978 911SC

[jameshurst71t]

Hey guys,
I’ve owned and maintained a 1971 911T for 25 years and finally got my 2nd Porsche ever. It’s a barn find 1978 911SC Targa, found in Denmark but from Hollywood and Malibu. It’s still got blue plates (like my 71 had). She’s got 200k miles and is rough in spots. Bones are good though. All she needs is a rebuild, interior, paint, brakes, suspension and wiring. 🙂. I was told no paperwork and show up to find window sticker and all paperwork. No sign of a rebuild though. She ended up in a Danish barn via a family friend. Motor is correct year. She is a 1 of 1 factory color for her make, model and year. Best I can tell is 10 Porsches were painted this unknown paint color : paint to sample: 358-9-3. She was repainted horribly to Hellblau metallic at the end. Brakes are not frozen! We are stoked!! Already changed all fluids and replaced perforated tank. Next up is swapping all fuel lines, new fuel pump, fuel filter, adjusting valves, replacing valve covers and getting her running for a quick inspection. Then the real fun begins. Please share your experience.

[GeorgeK]

Congratulations. Rebuliding it will be the best time ever, especially when it starts and drives.

[snbush67]

Good thing you got your dad there to help you. Don't sit on the car.

[Winter]

Score!

[REVerend]

Very nice… any idea when it ran last?

[jameshurst71t]

Curious what order I should go in order to start this old girl?

[Mark Salvetti]

Congrats on the new car! I see you already found the 358-9-3 paint code thread.

Even after replacing the fuel lines, you've still got to worry about the fuel distributor. I think once you get some fuel in the tank, pull the red fuel pump relay and jumper terminals 30 and 87a. With the ignition on, this will run the fuel pump. It should circulate fuel from the tank to the fuel distributor, and then back to the tank. Hopefully this will clean out any sticky deposits. Then pull the six injectors, put them in jars, and with the fuel pump running, slowly lift up on the sensor plate inside the air box. That should let fuel to the injectors, and you can see if they are all flowing and hopefully nicely atomized.

If the distributor is messed up, you may find the sensor plate is not moving freely and/or all the injectors are not flowing. Maybe let things sit with the fresh fuel for a couple days and try again. If that doesn't work, you'll have to rebuild the fuel distributor.

Mark

[kmcteer]

I just did this on my 1978 that had been sitting since 2014. As Mark mentions, the fuel distributor will be a problem, the needle on mine wasn't moving. When you replaced the tank did you verify the lines are clear, my return line was plugged up.

To remove variables I removed my CIS components and sent them out for rebuild with Tony. Replaced the ignition components and rebuilt the distributor while I waited. Plenty of jobs to tackle on these.

-Kelly

[PeteKz]

In addition to Mark's and Kelly's comments, when you put fresh fuel in the tank, add a bottle of Chevron Techron Concentrate, or similar fuel system cleaner. You already changed the oil right? Save the old filter and cut it open to see if any metal is inside. There's a reason it was parked in a barn for years--it might have engine problems. Definitely replace all the rubber fuel lines, but the black plastic fuel injector lines on the engine should be okay.

If no metal in the filter, then remove the spark plugs and unplug the CDI. Crank the engine until you get oil pressure for 5 seconds or more. Then reconnect the CDI and check for spark. Then reinstall the spark plugs.

At this point, you can try to start it. It will probably take a squirt of starting spray to get it going.

Once you get it running, drive it! That will not only keep you motivated, it will circulate the fresh fuel and cleaner, and as you exercise the engine it will gradually run better. You will also find out what else needs work, such as: transmission shifter bushings, pedal cluster bushings, clutch adjustment, steering wheel bearings, alignment, suspension, etc.

I look forward to seeing your progress. It will be a fun father-son project. As Shane said, it's good to have adult supervision!

[jameshurst71t]

Originally Posted by snbush67

Good thing you got your dad there to help you. Don't sit on the car.

I told him to, he pushed back and I said go ahead son, it's ok.

REVerend Very nice… any idea when it ran last?

I think my father in law's best friend brough it over around 2000. He would start it and run it around a few times but not since 2005 or so.

Rather than test the injectors, I'm just going to replace them. There are 2 rebuild kits for FD and WUR that I'm sure I will have to tackle. The return line looked full of goo so no attempt at starting until I replace all the lines.

Thankfully the engine spins freely. I am quite sure it will need a rebuild though. My goal is to get it running and see why it was parked.


My turbo valve covers showed up so I can swap those in with new gaskets (should have done that during the oil change). They will replace the old likely warped valve covers on their now
Then do a valve adjustment.
Then swap the wires and plugs. (already replaced air filter, cap and rotor)
I have a fuel filter to replace
Remove all the old AC equpment. Try to sell.
Sell the BBS wheels
R&R Fuel Lines
Install new gas tank
install new injectors
take the advice above on start up process.

Which spark plugs do you recommend?
The factory suggests 10w60 for oil so may go with that.
should I rehab the old injectors or just replace, it is like the same cost?

while i wait for stuff I can adjust & pack the wheel bearings with new grease. I can also swap discs, soft lines and pads.

A lot of work was done on the 915 back in the day so that is a plus. LIkely needs new clutch, machined fly wheel.

[Winter]

Originally Posted by jameshurst71t

My turbo valve covers showed up so I can swap those in with new gaskets (should have done that during the oil change).

I have not done this, so I am not speaking from personal experience, but it has been reported on this forum that one can jack up one side of the car to change out (respectively) the L or R valve cover.

Or you can do what I have done, just drain the oil from the engine alone (sump plug only) into a clean container and then reuse the oil.

Good luck with the car, looks like a fun project.

[A930Rocket]

At first, I thought it looked like my Iris blue 911.

[BenDreamin]

Amazing project, good luck and great that you are restoring it up instead of it rotting away!

[nospiners]

Long , exciting road ahead to get it where you need it to be. Lots of luck , we are watching and pulling for you !!

[H-viken]

Awesome James, what a cool project!

Johan

[buster73]

Originally Posted by jameshurst71t

The factory suggests 10w60 for oil so may go with that.

Hi James,

For a street car I would go with 20W-50 and safe the money for an extra tank of gas. What is you engine code 930/04 or 930/06 ? . Hopefully we will have plenty of time to discuss your project when we meet for "Eurotreffen" in September