Targa Top Latch Repair/Rebuild

[mycastle]

PICS ADDED IN POST BELOW:

I suffered the same challenge with my Targa Latch as many of you have when I errantly thought extra force was all that was needed to get my top to seat

After doing some research on the price of a replacement latch, apparently made out of unobtanium or some other precious metal, I decided that if I broke it, then I needed to fix it. Searched this forum and found the fix using epoxy and a small hose clamp and was ready to do that, but then I found the replacement pin made by Rennline. A quick trip to the Rennline page and they showed the job as a 1/5 wrenches, right up my alley

But then I searched further in this forum and found that many said in order to replace the pin, you needed to grind off the 5 tabs and disassemble the latch and then do some tack welding to reassemble. This seemed in stark contrast to a 1/5 wrench rating.

Well, fellow pelicans, it is not a 1/5 - I tried for two hours in an attempt to coax that pin into the press-fit opening in the cam that the pin sits in. No amount of silicon spray was going to help. I finally came to the conclusion that disassembly was needed. Below are the key steps I took to complete the task.

NOTE: SEE PICTURES IN POST #4 BELOW

1. Placed pin over a large socket in a vice and used a punch to tap the pin out (2 lb maul used as a tapper)




Offending Latch pin removed


2. Used a dremel tool and ground the tabs that went through the upper plate. Used a scribe to cut through what looked like epoxy on the underside of the upper plate around the tabs and gently pried the top plate off gaining access to the inner workings.

3. With access to the back side of the cam, I removed the cam and the linkage attached and then used a 1/4" drive deep socket to tap the cam down over the new pin. (make sure you put the upper plate in the stacking sequence between the pin shoulder and the CAM)


Cam/upper plate, and new pin installed.

NOTE: the pin has two flats, and it matters on the orientation. The replacement pin slots are two different sizes to accommodate the handle. I would like to say I noticed this before I inserted the pin into the CAM, but I didn't, just got lucky.



3. After cleaning any oils off of it, I then mixed up some JB weld, coated the five tabs, and reassembled the latch.



Looking forward to using it after I rebuild the frame cover I took off to get access to the latch. And yes, because the five plastic clips broke upon removal I had to remove the old covering to install new clips and then re-upholster the folding arm with new vinyl. And if you are going to do that to one, you might as well do both.

Hope this thread is helpful to anyone considering the repair. All in all, it was not THAT challenging once I realized there was no way I was going to be able to press that pin into the cam without disassembly.

Cheers,

Mike

[rwest]

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the write up, I have those parts waiting for the day I want to tackle it!

I’m unable to see your pictures though.

Best,
Rutager

[mycastle]

Can't figure out how to post them! I go to edit the post and it shows all the images installed, just not coming through. It seemed easy enough when I was creating the thread. apparently it is a 3/5 wrenches which is above my skill set

[mycastle]

1. Placed pin over a large socket in a vice and used a punch to tap the pin out (2 lb maul used as a tapper)


Offending Latch pin removed



2. Used a dremel tool and ground the tabs that went through the upper plate. Used a scribe to cut through what looked like epoxy on the underside of the upper plate around the tabs and gently pried the top plate off gaining access to the inner workings.

3. With access to the back side of the cam, I removed the cam and the linkage attached and then used a 1/4" drive deep socket to tap the cam down over the new pin. (make sure you put the upper plate in the stacking sequence between the pin shoulder and the CAM)


Cam/upper plate, and new pin installed.

NOTE: the pin has two flats, and it matters on the orientation. The replacement pin slots are two different sizes to accommodate the handle. I would like to say I noticed this before I inserted the pin into the CAM, but I didn't, just got lucky.

3. After cleaning any oils off of it, I then mixed up some JB weld, coated the five tabs, and reassembled the latch.




Looking forward to using it after I rebuild the frame cover I took off to get access to the latch. And yes, because the five plastic clips broke upon removal I had to remove the old covering to install new clips and then re-upholster the folding arm with new vinyl. And if you are going to do that to one, you might as well do both.

Hope this thread is helpful to anyone considering the repair. All in all, it was not THAT challenging once I realized there was no way I was going to be able to press that pin into the cam without disassembly.

Cheers,

Mike

[rwest]

Hi Mike,

I can see these pictures!

Thanks for posting, I’ll be tackling this soon.

One question, do you think that the tabs could be bent straight and reused?

Best,
Rutager

[mycastle]

WRT the tabs, not sure if you are asking if they could be bent straight instead of grinding or if they should be bent straight after grinding.

If question is before grinding, I don't think you can. The tabs don't stick up much so getting any purchase on them would be a challenge. And I also think there is some sort of epoxy or bonding on them that needs to be removed, hence the grinding approach.

If question is after grinding, that is a possibility, but I think it would create another challenge in getting them back into the top plate. The slots are a perfect fit for the tab that was removed. If you bend the tabs straight, then the slot would have to be worked to accommodate the straight tab as the slot is in the shape that the tab was upon removal (hope that makes sense).

I did not bend them straight. My rational was that after the grinding there was less tab than what I started with leaving less purchase opportunity. By leaving them slightly twisted they provided an "interference fit" so that the top portion kind of snapped on to the bottom portion (remember that I gently pried the top off implying that the tabs did not want to freely let go after the surface grinding). By painting some JB weld on them before I snapped the top back on, I figured it would create a better bond. If you note on the final picture the JB weld oozed out a bit, but the tabs are flush with the top section. No clue if my logic would pass a Mechanical Engineers peer review, but for now, it is a tight bond and I have no play between the two pieces.,

[realem]

I realize this was an old post but it came in very handy. Just finished repairing one latch. Replace the locking pin and corrected what I think was a design flaw..
The Dremel tool did the trick on taking the latch apart. The design change is replacing the connecting pin that connects the locking pin to the cam mechanism. The existing on is to short and sort of crimped on. I found a correct diameter clevis pin. Cut is longer than the current connecting pin so it would reach the locking pin cam.
I only used the vice to knock out the locking pin. Depending on the issue the locking pin might be fine most of the time.
I was able to snap the top back on the tabs but will have to use JB weld to secure