DRIVEN GP-1 pros and cons
 

Wondering if some of you have experience using the Driven GP-1 15W-40 in aircooled 911’s.

It is said to have high enough viscosity when warm even though it’s a 40 grade.

Also wondering if som had experience with the Driven DT50.


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I use Driven XP6 in my race car…phenomenal stuff!

Driven oil has been highly recommended to me by a well respected engine builder. I’m currently running the Driven HR1 15-50, which I have been told is top notch for air cooled 911’s. I can’t comment on the specifics of the GP1 though.

I’m running the Driven DT50 in the 964 also on recommendation from the shop I use. I honestly can’t tell the difference in the Air Cooled but in my Spyder there’s a definite difference in startup and initial idle sound with the the Driven vs other oils I’ve used (Motul/Mobil).

I've used Driven BR for both break ins and it's been fantastic. I have a box of HR1 for the second phase at the recommendation of my go to shop.

I still don't get why people use conventional oils these days......especially with an air-cooled engine.

DRIVEN GP-1 pros and cons
 

Switched from Brad Penn to GP-1, instantly leaks a lot from the cooler! Been using Brad Penn for years with little to no leaks. Very annoying because it’s a lot of oil leaking that I have to clean off every few weeks. I hate the fact that I had to stop using Brad Penn.

If you are getting leaks at the cooler you have a problem with a seal or fitting at the cooler....it's certainly not the oil's fault.

Why did you have to stop using Brad Penn?

Any leaks , anywhere , not the oils fault !!!!

They changed the formulation apparently in a big way, and I seem to recall that they got bought out.

DRIVEN GP-1 pros and cons
 

My estimation is that GP-1 has harsh cleaning agents. I’m on my second full rebuild with a little over 7k on the engine and associated cooling bits. Every darn seal and every weak link was replaced with new. Not a drop of oil before my 2nd rebuild, or after, until GP-1. And the leaks started within an hour of oil swap!

A decade ago I tried several oils, none of them performed (in my opinion, with my car) as great as the original formulation of Brad Penn. I had high hopes with GP-1. I will try something else soon. Not sure what. I accept high zddp suggestions :) The only synth I’ve used is v-twin but I don’t want to go back to full synth because of, well, possibility of leaks again. I need 20w-50 cuz it’s hot where I live. I’m pretty bummed with GP-1

DRIVEN GP-1 pros and cons
 

I wholly agree. That was one of the first zones I inspected post-leak. Again, my guess is that there was some sorta crud or blockage that GP-1 removed via detergents? Who knows, it drives me nuts. The timing of it all seems so peculiar.

Either way, I’ll be looking at some other oil to try soon.

Cheers all!

Most of the Driven GP-1 oils are synthetic blends it appears, didn't check all of them.

I haven't yet found a tech spec sheet on them.

Anyone ?

All the GP-1 oils are blends using Pennsylvania crude oil....

DRIVEN GP-1 pros and cons
 

My reasoning in using it is that it is of lineage of sorts to Brad Penn oil. Penn crude blend. GP-1 20w-50 seems to run a bit warmer than the old 20w-50 Brad Penn aka Penngrade in my car. I, too, would I like to see a spec sheet

I use the DT50. I called their tech support line to discuss choosing either the 40 or 50. They recommend the DT50 because air cooled engines run hotter than liquid cooled, however, If you have a tight clearance engine (my mains and rods are .002, 5000 miles on a recent rebuild), you could go with the DT40. Look at their online catalog, because it makes oil recommendations based on temperature and bearing clearances. BTW, the DT50 says right on the label “for air cooled engines.”

Our olde engines need high levels of ZDDP. Phosphorus and zinc are in the 1400-1500 range, which is the sweet spot.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1682595894.jpg

currently using Swepco 306 15W-40 but as it is harder to find (thus getting more expensive), I checked alternatives (yes yes, read practically all oil threads here, it's enormous).

So therefor I'm a bit surprised that the 'end' suggestion is not:

use Valvoline VR1 conventional 20W-50

that oil, that was the consensus I understood, after all these hours of reading...
I will change over to that oil, because it has rock solid reviews, can be found locally even here in Belgium, and is way cheaper than the rest of these super oils (half price)...

just my 2 cents

I still say it is crazy that people with air-cooled 911 engines are not using a high quality full synthetic oil exclusively in those engines. If ever engine characteristics demanded a full synthetic, it is a Porsche air-cooled (mostly oil-cooled in reality) engine.