How to remove rear SC torsion bar?
 

Hi there!

Mattias is having slight problems with removing rear suspension on our project-car so he asked me to ask for advice.

Part 35 on picture is removed together with it's bolts (36, 37):
http://www.pelicanparts.com/911/911_Parts/1974-75/5-1.JPG

Part 26 is not moving anywhere. My guess is that he needs to knock out torsion-bar trough hole in rear fender, and 26 will follow out? Right?

How can we remove torsion bar and swing-plate? Is there a hole in torsion-bar tube so he can access rear of torsion-bar to punch it out?

Car is -79 SC.

Thanx!

If 36/37 are out, 33 and 27 are removed from the trailing arm, bang on the back side of the spring plate (26) and it will most likely take the torsion bar with it. After you have it all out, clamp the t-bar in a vice, protecting it from the jaws, and pound the spring plate off the bar.

Sometimes you can get a little pry bar behind the spring plate. Just be careful not to mess-up the wheel well. Once it starts to move just wiggle the plate back and forth untill it's totally out. Also, make sure all the tension is off the t-bar. Have all the bolts out of the spring plate and remove lower shock and sway-bar bolts if you have them.

JG

This is a great idea, allows the trailing arm to wiggle with the spring plate.

You shouldn't have to remove the lower shock mount or the sway bar since they're connected to the control arm (not the spring plate). However, the spring plate must be disconnected from the control arm (Toe, camber and two sets of bolts/nuts)

Before you get too far, after removing the torsion bar cover bolts and single spacer, measure the angle of the free-hanging spring plate with an inexpensive inclinometer as this will be your reference point for further adjustments up or down.

You cannot remove the torsion bar and the torsion bar cover (#35) as a unit due to space limitations. You only have the space between the inner fender and wheel well to separate these two parts. And these must be separated for any fine ride height adjustments. I have used vise grips on the torsion bar (wrap the bar to avoid gouges) close to the torsion bar cover. Then use a pry bar or two between the two parts to persuade separation. Hopefully they're not rusted together.

Follow the adjustment procedure in PP's tech article.

Sherwood Lee
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars

Thank you all very much!

P.S. To make things more interesting, one of bolts on the driver side holding torsion bar cover (#35) is broken (actually the one shown on diagram).

We plan to remove torsion bar cover, then welding a nut to it to try to extract it. It's a nightmare bolts to extract as there is not much place there.

or as an option, grind the broken end flat, center punch, then drill through the exact center with a left hand drill bit. Start with a small dia. drill than work your way up until you can pick out the remaining bolt. The left-hand drilling will sometimes dislodge what's left, but if not, chase with a thread tap or to the point where you can insert the largest ezy-out you can use.

Sherwood