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Valve Adjuster problem
Doing a valve adjustment and whoever worked on the car previously overtorqued everything, complete mess, used different nuts, and seems 1 of the nuts is totally wrong and they had stripped the valve adjuster screw and seized the nut.
I backed out the adjuster a little too far not realizing how far I backed it out as the nut was basically glued on there. I didn't think i went that far. It wasn't the normal thinner nut but some real thick one. The screw came out because the elephant foot fell off which i retreived. This was the last cylinder being done. How do I replace the adjusting screw on cylinder 5 now. https://cdn10.bigcommerce.com/s-lifi...0.1280.jpg?c=2 |
You will need to loosen the rocker shaft and tap it out enough to remove the rocker. Loosen the 5mm end and figure out how to move it sideways, preferably out therough the thinner boss.
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Cool, i just looked in the bentley manual. So basically 2 5mm or so on each side and crack it open, tap rock shaft out remove the hammer(technical term :) and replace it all with new screw.
Now Whose got a valve screw in NJ? |
To John Walker's expert advice, let me add that you should consider putting the RS O-rings on the rocker shafts "while you're in there." Several folks here recently have had rocker arm oil leaks, including me. At least inspect for any oil at the ends of the rocker shafts, and consider putting the O-rings on that rocker shaft you remove, because now you have upset the seal between the rocker shaft and its bore. If the others aren't leaking, then you can leave those alone. It is a PITA to remove the rocker shafts and install the O-rings working in that constrained area. Buy the whole set of O-rings (24), and save the ones you don't use for later. You'll probably need 'em someday.
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Thanks, I'll look it up.
Parts adding up. Sounds like a pelican order on Monday. I guess its replace the Ace with the Griffiths AC system this weekend instead of finishing the valves. Im 5 1/2 done :). I really do think some wrenches don't know the difference between NM and Lbs. I had a lot of issues with lots of things too tight. I'm only going to do the 1 valve shaft for now, and thankfully its intake so little easier to work on for me as the intake is currently off as I replaced fuel lines and such. I guess I'll get the wightwoods racing ones, or are the CSS ones ok? Big difference in price and dont want to cheap out, wightwood valve cover gasket set is going on when i'm done. is this the o ring : https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/91109910352.htm?pn=911-099-103-52-INT&bc=c&SVSVSI=0581 What is best way to tap out the rocker. I always see people with the engines out. I loosen the 5mm bolt while holding the 8 and remove the rocker end expanders, then need to push out the rocker. If i put a socket there tough to tap on it . |
Just loosen it and tap/lever/pry it out with whatever tool you can find to move it. Don't fully remove it or take it all apart, just slide it out enough to get the rocker out. Retorque to 18ish ft lb, which is more than new spec for a reason.
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Thanks John Walker. If I don't remove the rocker arm fully can I still get the o rings on? I see some people put oil on the shaft and slide in and others leave dry. Any recommendation?
I also watched some videos and some folks using cheater bars on the 5mm is it really that tight? |
Probably be ok without the rsr seals. It would need to be in your hand in order to install them. Note the position of the shaft, almost flush with the thin boss, like the others. 18ft lbs dry.
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here is apick what John W. is talking about..http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1677914697.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1677914697.jpg |
John, question for you: How do you torque the rocker bolts? Do you have, or did you make some kind of Allen adapter for a 3/8" torque wrench that would fit into the space? I've done it by feel because I didn't have a good way to measure the torque.
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Im thinking since I can't order until Monday, just getting new rocker shaft, bushing, but and bolt, and the adjuster. Just pop in all new.
Or as John Walker said, just tap it until i can replace rocker with new adjusting screw and call it a day. |
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I think you torque from the bolt side (turn that and hold the nut) but check it. Ivan does it by feel. I do not think my 3/8" would fit the space with any adapter. |
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Having just done this recently, I found that four of the rocker shaft bushings were seized in the rocker shafts...could be rust or over-torqueing in the past or both and they would not come out. In any case, I then replaced these four bushings plus four new rocker shafts and twelve new bolts. I replace all the bolts no matter what.
I also reinstalled each rocker and shaft completely back into the same intake or exhaust cylinder location that it originally came from. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1677948247.jpg The ones seized are in red below. Bad idea to just put them back in as they will not correctly expand on torqueing in and likely leak even with the new seals. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1677948288.jpg |
good job Tsuter...
Also boys remember to inspect the shafts when you have it out ..they do brake-not too often thou On pic you can see the hairline crackhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1677951396.jpg |
Rocker out. My bicycle 1/4 inch metric tools work nicely on 911s.
It is definitely leaking a little. I have new shaft coming and hardware. It’s really tight with others installed as it’s #5 to remove the shaft. Walker said if just replacing screw leave it in but just want ti check if I get it out I can squeeze the new one in. ? Thanks everyone. I was a little freaking out when that screw crapped out. Basically the top of the old adjuster screw is thinner. I knew something was up when the nut moved and stopped. Looked at threads and saw they were already buggered up. |
Gorillas out there.
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I loosened things up, reseated and all is good. nut is slightly protruding from the side of the case.
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