Anyone have access to cad?
 

I’m looking for someone to draw me up a simple tool and send me the file…anyone out there have access to a program? I plan on sending the file to a machine shop that can just waterjet it out.
Here is the part if anyone is interested in making a quick buck
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1678500084.jpg

Sure - PM me your e-mail address.

Do you want round/radiused corners?

Check out sendcutsend.com

I second what Cory M said: I've been experimenting with SendCutSend with good success.

If you have any computer skills, just get QCad pro for like $35 and go to town after watching some Youtube on how to do the basics, like rounding corners, and how to upload files to SendCutSend. I made some custom seat rails for my Recaros to enable the seats to go further back than stock. I ceramic coated them. Came out well:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1678546235.jpg

Some exhaust flanges:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1678546410.jpg

You can make flat parts very easily, and sendcutsend has a lot of material choices and thicknesses (Aluminum, Steel, Stainless, etc.)

Zuffenwerker - CAD file sent.

Cory - Thanks for tip on sendcutsend.com - I hadn't heard of them, looks promising for small projects.

Send cut send will accept illustrator files and pdfs so you don’t need cad software. They also now have an online app that lets you design parts.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Be careful with your required accuracy. Three digit call out (46.799) will dramatically raise your cost. Waterjet and even laser can't reliably hold that. High end CNC mill can but $$$.

46.8 +/- .010 would be a whole lot cheaper.

I've used Qcad- but for the effort required Onshape is a much more modern platform and is free for casual users. Where Qcad is only 2d Onshape is fully featured 3d and much easier to share. Both are about the same in terms of the learning curve but Onshape has much better tutorials and more users so there is much more support for beginners

Pete

Yes I wouldn’t expect perfection. As long as they can get me within a thou I can tune it up and remove the remaining tenths from whichever surfaces to get it real close. It’s got to be a pretty accurate depth because it is a setting gauge

I hope that you are aware that if your are talking about "tenths" (0.0001 inch) increments, you need some very good measurement equipment as many micrometers go to 0.0005 increments.

Also notable is that "tenths" measurements are difficult to reliably repeat unless the surface is quite smooth and dust free, and part is held at a reasonably constant temperature because the CTE of steel (for example) is 7.2 x 10EE-06 in/in °F.

IMHO, many people not familiar with machining are unfortunately unacquainted with just how challenging (and very often unnecessary) "tenths" are.

Even "within a thou" is very challenging and usually unnecessary unless this is intended to be a precision gauge. I have to ask: what is the repeatability of your measurements and the measurement tolerance of the gauge you used.

To get a feel for relatively tight tolerances, which are likely larger than you might think, check out the tolerance allowances on things like crankshaft journals and bearings.

For something that simple, the waterjet shop would likely draw it. Waterjet is usually ±.005" so you can program it to .001 and then it'll be within .005 of that.

If someone is sending you a drawing, I've found a 2013 version of a *.dxf file is most interchangeable with all programs.

If you're not that concerned about tolerance, precision flame cut is cheaper especially for something that large.

I've been using Freecad, which is ... free, works on Mac, Windows, Linux, they have some tutorials to follow to learn how to use it.
https://www.freecad.org

+1 on SendCutSend. Amazing prices for small parts compared to the other sites.

We speak the same language, I understand exactly what your saying. Most mechanics really haven’t had the training required to measure accurately..especially with a depth mike where it’s very easy to get a false reading. I’m familiar with how to use measuring equipment properly. I was trained by an old tool and die maker. I’m using a depth mike with a vernier scale. The part above must definitely be within a thou as it will be used as a setting gauge to zero an indicator which also uses “tenths” graduations. Most of the time when rebuilding engines and transmissions a vernier scale is not necessary but I like the accuracy. Also, something like this is really not going to grow or shrink much unless you put it in the oven or the freezer.

Given your requirements for this to be used as a standard to set a gage, it will need to be machined and with the tolerance you are requesting would be best ground to finish size.

Without getting deep into the mechanics of metrology you need to have this standard close to the absolute perfect size since using it to set a gage. You need to protect for error on either side of the standard's nominal size. Also, your note "something like this is not really going to grow" is not accurate. Given your tight size tolerance, holding it in your hand, that heat will move it out of spec. No freezer or oven needed. The shape is not a stable shape for temperature related accuracy either.
All of the above is stated as a bit of an overkill but nothing there is out of range to the numbers you want to hold.

Yes essexmetal the original tools were precision ground and super accurate. I imagine going from room temp to whatever temperature my hand is won’t be a critical factor here…haha I was just saying it won’t grow enough to matter. You think maybe 2 or 3 tenths..? I was surprised when a mechanic showed me once that if you hold a cis distributor piston in your hand for a minute it will no longer fit back in its bore! Of course a very tight clearance on that thing