Ran Into Trouble With Shifter Bushing Replacement

[LucaScali]

A couple days ago I felt something snap beneath the gear lever and it became super loose. I figured it was just a bushing, which needed to be replaced anyway.

Got home to discover I'd lost reverse. No worries, tightened the little screw that was a bit loose in the coupler and I was again able to engage reverse--delicately. No problems with any gear, but the lever was still flopping around everywhere with not much spring action going into reverse.

So I went to install the two plastic bushings in the front and got stuck removing the shifter. The three large socket screws came out without a problem. the smaller ones were seriously over tightened. I've already rounded one of the sockets and the other one isn't budging.

Is there a way to remove the shifter with the bracket attached or would there not be enough access? If not, is there a way to get at the ball cap bushing without pulling the whole thing off? At least I'd be able to replace that one and leave the rod bushing for another day. Right now in no mood to contend with the frozen screws in such a tight space.

Thanks very much

[Flojo]

get a set of "drill-outs" to remove the 2 smaller bolts.
You have to.
Otherwise you cannot remove the unit

[LucaScali]

That's what I thought, but it was worth asking. Earlier ordered these guys:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PH39ZFD/

If they don't work, drill-outs will be next.

[Jeff Burger]

If the easy outs you ordered dont work, I have had good luck using a cold chisel and heavy hammer- hit down and counter clockwise into the outside edge. sometimes it takes multiple points of attack but usually only one . Bonus points if you don't destroy the ability to use the allen key to spin it the rest of the way out.

[PeteKz]

A variation on Jeff's suggestion is to use a hand impact driver with the easy-out bit in it. Hitting the impact driver with a hammer both drives the bit in, loosening the threads of the fastener a little, and twists it at the same time. I can't count how many Phillips or JIS screws I've taken out with an impact driver over the years. And, of course, use some penetrating oil too.

[LucaScali]

thanks for the suggestions, guys. so I was able to get one off with the extractor, but it made the other one worse. tomorrow it's on to one of the other methods. it wouldn't be such a drag if there were something to grab on to.

[EC900]

Interesting the bolts were so tight, I’m awaiting warmer weather to replace my shift bushings and I just now used some PB Blaster on those bolts just in case mine are overly tight or threads rusted up.

Another suggestion would be Dremmel cutting a slot into and across the entire head and then use a hand type impact driver with a flat bit than spans across the whole bolt head. I wouldn’t hammer or muscle down the impacts so not to deform the tunnel sheet metal.

Also most of the hand held impact hammer kits don’t have wide flat bits, but one can be fashioned from an old square shank flat blade screwdriver and use on a standard cordless impact driver.

You can also try to tap (chisel) the bolts out by hand with a screwdriver too if you cut those slots. Using a cold chisel will likely cut thru the bolts, where a softer screwdriver wouldn’t.

[LucaScali]

The smaller screws aren't original, unlike the larger ones. The PO was a very good engineer who did a fantastic job rebuilding the transmission himself, but evidently got the torque wrong on these. The others came out normally. There's no rust anywhere, thankfully. Everything looks pristine.

I thought about cutting a slot with a dremel, but the screw is too recessed to do it without damaging the shifter. I also gave it a shot with a tiny saw, but didn't get anywhere--not enough clearance.

I found some Ryobi extractors, so I then tried to drill a pilot hole, but the bit snapped. It didn't' look promising anyway. The Ryobi extractors are almost useless.

On a whim I decided to try to reshape the hole itself to see if i could give the hex extractors a little more bite. I applied a drop of Permatex Metal Filler, inserted a hex key, let it set for a couple minutes, then removed the key. I could have just sacrificed the hex key, but I worried it would make things worse if that plan failed. Not sure the Permatex Metal Filler will be strong enough, but it's what I had on hand.

We'll see what happens once it cures.

[EC900]

Never used permatex.

One thing I’ve found is that high speed drilling and drivers work against the process.
When I tried the extractor bits on rusty deck screws in wood. The screw heads snapped and the harder deck screw heads still stripped.

I’d hate to think the PO used hardened bolts for the retrofit which will make drilling into them that much more difficult, using an appropriate drill bit for the metal of course. Try some quality drill bits like colbalt, designed for hardened metals, the shorter the shank the better, again no need to muscle down as slow as possible.

If there’s any meat left in those bolts heads, drill a slightly larger hole - SLOWLY - with a drop of some oil may help. Same with extractor, if you can tap the extractor bit to set it into the bolt, but try doing this by hand rather than drill/driver. Again I think a small hammer and repeated tapping in chiseling-like fashion, this will take some time, tedious no doubt.

Btw, I don’t use anything Ryobi anymore, never been more dissatisfied with the economy brand. Milwaukee and Dewalt are better. The Dremmel type rotary tool is a good tool to have, assorted bits to attack and grind (slowly) those stubborn bolt heads entirely off may be the last ditch effort. As for damage to the shifter housing, it can be limited and besides, its covered by the boot/console or carpet.

Also, If there’s any rust in the tunnel (?) or on the bracket… I’d continue use a bit more PB Blaster on those two bolts but from the underside of the shifter thru the access hole … if not already thoroughly soaked.

I’m not sure about the base of the shifter if it’s solid enough to just to shave any material off it to get better access to the two aftermarket bolts to slot them. So eventually you may have to resort to drilling off the entire screw/bolt head using a progression of drill sizes until it lifts out if you want to save the condition and appearance of the shifter base housing

Can you post a picture of how the shifter bolts/screws?

[2svnhvn]

If you have access to a MIG welder, you can weld the allen wrench into the bolt. The heat and energy from welding should make the bolt come out easily
Pete

[LucaScali]

So that was an epic fail. The stuff just crumbled. I don't have access to a welder, but thought about JB Welding a nut to the head of the screw and getting off with a socket. Do you guys think JB Weld can take it? Can any glue? I'd rather not damage the shifter housing if I can avoid it. I'll know it's there. I'm sure you can relate.

Other options include a "drill-out" product as suggested. With which ones have you guys had success? As EC said more diplomatically, Ryobi is junk.

[PeteKz]

No glue can take the same forces of metal to metal. Not even anywhere close. either drill it out or weld something to it that will give you more grip. It would only take a couple spot welds to do the trick.

[NY65912]

Perhaps try a left hand drill bit. I have had some success with these on broken bolts, a little heat as well?

[Ian Comerford]

Have you thought about using the drill to just remove the head of the bolt? This should then allow you to remove the shifter and you may find that the remains of the bolt are easy to remove as there is no clamping force being applied any more. Hope this makes sense

[EC900]

JB Weld is good stuff as an adhesive or gap filler, but won’t hold up to that much torque either.

If I had this situation, the only thing left would be Dremel those two bolt heads off…have a few Dremel Carbibe deburring bits on hand. Drilling out the heads as much as possible will make short work for the Dremel to finish up if needed.

[Mike Andrew]

^^^^^
I have used carbide deburring bits to remove many fasteners. This includes lots of frozen & corroded exhaust nuts and bolts.

Grind the head off, get hold of the remnants and twist them out. Pretty easy.

[john walker's workshop]

https://www.amazon.com/Amartisan-Lmpact-Extractor-Pieces-Remover/dp/B07X7FYZB7/ref=asc_df_B07X7FYZB7/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385124930314&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10181593518180197680&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033318&hvtargid=pla-834228194839&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=80210700684&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385124930314&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10181593518180197680&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033318&hvtargid=pla-834228194839

[LucaScali]

Thanks for all the great suggestions, guys. As EC predicted, the JB Weld did not hold up. First tried gluing a nut to the top of the screw, and when that failed miserably tried gluing in an allen key. The JB Weld had no chance.

I was finally able to get it off by hammering a 2" torx bit into the mangled hole. Popped it right off with a 3/4" socket wrench.

The ball cap bushing was badly worn and the rod bushing had actually broken apart. I cleaned everything up and got the new bushings on. Will reassemble everything tonight. Thanks again for helping me work through it.

[LucaScali]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09H57V7CD?psc=1

These are the ones I used in case anyone runs into a similar problem.

[LucaScali]

The old bushings weren't pretty. You may want to check yours before one of them fails.