idle Position Switch
 

Since engine was installed following clutch job and other items, I suspect the throttle linkage is slightly different from before and that the idle position switch clearance is JUST a TAD BIT too much. To isolate, I disconnected the cruise control cable, that was causing a hand up in the throttle plate returning to full idle. That helped, but I think that the gap is still just off, leading to idle sometimes spot on, and other times, maybe 100 rpm high. I can manually move the throttle and release and can only here the idle position micro switch click some of the times. When depressing the arm at the pivot point, it appears to exceed clearance specs.

QUESTION 1 - SO - what I cannot find in the manuals, is how to adjust the clearance. I see in Bentleys 240-21 E the set screw , but no info on making adjustments. Is this truly a set screw with a lock nut that moves the drag arm stop in or out to establish the 0.2mm drag arm to housing gap? To adjust, and decrease the gap, do I just loosen the lock nut, insert a .2mm gap tool and adjust the set screw to give light drag like a valve adjustment and lock the nut again? I think when I get this set I will be in good shape. They new clutch is soooo nice.

QUESTION 2 - I will never use the cruise control, it is currently disconnected and zip tied, but how do I just remove the cable from the controller without using a cable cutter? I would like to keep the cable in the event down the road I change my mind.

To remove the cable from the vac.unit unscrew 3 philips screws and slide out the cable with the plastic
end from the inside bracket of the vac.unit

here is the setting
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1679810205.jpg

I got in there this morning with better light. I adjust the microswitch, needed a skinny screw driver and an 8mm on a swivel - it is tight in there. Managed to loosen the lock nut, which like on valve adjustments can also move the adjustment screw. Ended up getting it really close, then placing a feeler gage at the stop and snugging the lock nut back down. After some fiddling, finally got the adjustment where pressing on the pivot point the microswitch is not engaged, but at full lift off, it is.

I think this is correct and will test drive later. Thankfully, so far post clutch everything else is good to go. Ended up popping the cruise ball socket off of the damaged cruise cable, then cut the cable and removed it entirely. It will not be missed and cleans up the engine bay just a little more.

Round 3 - not actually a screw, so had to readjust and added an 8mm locknut to keep it set correctly. Headed out for a quick test drive, fingers crossed.

Fast forward - ended up having to replace the set screw as the slotted screw driver side has sheared off. Took awhile with some clumsy use of various tools. Replaced with a McMaster car set screw and resent everything. So far so good.