Post Winter Hibernation Restart

[jma0506]

So I just wrapped up a bunch of jobs on the car over the winter and now that spring is finally here it's ready to get back on the road.

I was curious for those of you who live in 4 season areas and take your car off the road for winter hibernation if you have a spring restart ritual. Do you disconnect the coil and fuel pump relay and build up oil pressure a bit before starting? Do you just turn the key and fire it up? Anything else? Figured I'd ask before I go and turn the key.

Thanks!

[ADDvanced]

I just turn the key. I'm in a climate controlled garage, and it always smokes like a ***** after sitting.

[EC900]

For me, it’s pretty much disconnect the battery tender and go. Fuel level is usually kept +3/4th’s so I try to drive and use about 1/4 tank or so and top off with fresh gas and some injector cleaner and stabilizer type additive such as Lucas and Sta-Bil 360

Though my Chicago hibernation period varies, it’s road salts that keeps it garaged. Any decent dry winter weather driving is done only after any snow melt salt puddles are gone. I like to exercise the engine on any good days during winter even at 20° F.

Any storage more than 8 weeks and I’ll have the worn-guide smoke and 5 minute burn off, so in that situation, I roll her out of the (attached) garage before starting or all that smoke could find it’s way inside the house.

[jma0506]

Thank you both and good to know. The car has been in a temperature controlled garage so sounds like bringing it outside and firing it up is going to be the plan

[Otter74]

Same - I take the cover off, put the key in and start it. Don’t even need a battery tender. Per above, smokes like a chimney for a bit if its been sitting for months. I will drive it occasionally in winter if the roads are dry and salt free, but only above maybe the high 20s because I have 20W50 in it.

[DaytonaCoupe66]

Mine sits from the beginning of December until early April in an insulated garage. It's a great time to proactively tackle maintenance, fluid/filter changes, and enhancements. I think the ritual for pre-storage is very relevant to how well your spring start will go, and there is lots of info on this process. For spring start up check the tire pressure, ensure the battery is fully charged, you already know how much oil is in it from the recent change, you know the fuel tank is full, and turn the key. I don't go out until after a few good post-snow-melt rains have washed the road salt away.

[Mike Andrew]

Uncover, pull rubber ball from exhaust, disconnect Tender and turn key. Let it idle for a bit & either shut it off or take a short drive. \With the amount of salt on our roads right now, it got shut off. Probably mid April before a drive tho we are supposed to get home big rain today and tonight.

[shoooo32]

I pull the CDI and FP relay and crank for pressure. I've had the engine out five of the last seven winters, but that's another story lol. With a heated garage, there's limited concern with condensation so I leave very little fuel in it. You can tell within a few blocks after filling it up in spring that fresh gas makes all the difference. After a 30 min shakedown run it's ready for the season.

[911 Rod]

Just turn the key.
It always amazes me how quickly it starts.

[jma0506]

Thanks everyone, appreciate all the responses!

[Schulisco]

I use a battery breaker switch to disconnect the battery during winter. Before start I recharge the battery. Then pull the fuel pump relay only before cranking 2-3 times until it builds oil pressure. Then I fire it up and let it idlie some minutes before I start for a first quick drive. Take care of tire pressure.

Before winter hibernation I fill up the gas tank. I always carry a can of fuel stabilizer and use it before filling up the gas. So any unplanned and planned hibernation won't worry me any more.

Those modern fuels are imho the culprit for that extending smoke those cars making because of the ethanol. This and the fact that they're not so stable in their composition as they used to be 30years ago are the reason why these cars smoke so much after a long rest. Bevause of the long metal fuel lines the gas detoriates and desintegrates much quicker. To add some fuel stabilizer reduces this dramatically.
Also using gas without ethanol reduces the smoke extreemely. Also I use engine oils Porsche recommended by that time. So I prefer a pretty old fashioned 20W50 non synthetic mineral oil of good quality with comparable API spec (Liqui Moly touring High tech). Car has way more than 250.000mls. The old mineral oils contain more elastomer sweller than modern synthetic oils. That's why the seals tend to leak more with synthetic oils. It's not the viscosity that causes oil leaks! Mineral oils naturally come with more elastomer sweller than synthetic or part-synthetic ones. So this refuces smoke and oil leaks as well
You can use 20W50 down to 10°F / -10°C if you're not riding daily. See the oil recommendations in the Porsche manual.


The car parks in an uninsulated garage next the house. On dry and sunny days I open the side door Humidity mostly at 50-65%.

Thomas