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911 g body tow locations
I have to have my 89 Carrera on a flatbed to take it to the shop. Can somebody show me the exact place it should be hooked up to to put it on the flatbed. My car is a bit lower and does have a front lower spoiler thank you
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Front of torsion bars ( covers)
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does the front of your torsion bars, i.e. the covers have hooks on them, maybe that is just the older ones.
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Are the two torsion bar tow loops are still there? Rearward, should be an opening in the bumper for the j-hook. Soft loops on the front torsion bars will work but be sure there’s no restriction or resistance.
![]() Things to consider as I have found using Flat bed tow truck or flat bed open u-haul type car carrier trailer with my lowered 911 - Have a couple of 2x10 8’ planks handy to raise the height a bit to clear the trailer or flatbeds approach angle. The lowered stance could clip the point where spoiler meets the trailer/truck bed due to the angle these points meet. The longer the ramp, the angle lowers. Having blocks of 2x10” lumber closer to the top of the ramp or on the bed will also provide some height to avoid clipping the spoiler/dam. This is an example of approach angle hitting a low point, applies to both front spoiler and if steep, the center… ![]() |
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I'm going to ask the follow-on question for a good tow location if you don't have the factory tow hooks on the torsion bar covers. My car has Elephant polybronze bushings and the factory tow hooks don't fit. I've only had to have my car towed once, but I had to figure something out on the spot. In the future, should it ever need a tow again, I'm either going to get an aftermarket tow hook or remember whatever is suggested. Can't remember what I used. Might have been the bash bar for the AC.
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In all cases is a car to be pulled forward first or can it be pulled backwards onto a truck. Currently it is in my garage nose in. I can pull it out or push it out of the garage and probably with the help of the driver position it if it needs to go front first
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My car has these
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vdub: The picture you posted… those are jack lift points for a garage hoist. Pic circled for example.
![]() You should have the two hooks (circled), tow from either if these. If hooks are not there - worse case scenario is to use a Soft Strap looped around the control arm (arrow) and winched up onto a flat bed. Care must be taken tying to the control arm, the angle height and tension on the arm should be minimal. But the further you hook anything up behind the bumper/spoiler/dam the more likely the damage. You would need to use wood blocking to keep straps away from touching spoiler as it goes up the flatbed/trailer bed. Even as Otter recommended, the bully bar that protects the AC condenser, but I’m not sure if that’s a solid cross member or hollow which would likely bend. ![]() Lastly - even looping a soft tie nylon tow rope through the Fuchs and essentially ‘dragging’ the front end up onto the flat bed, wet the surface with some dish soap makes it slide easily. Again, this is way beyond the plane of the bumper and could interfere and make damaging contact with spoiler/dam. I use Fuchs holes as tie-downs for trailering. A good tow truck operator will know what to do and avoid, including low profile winching and perhaps a wheel dolly to ease the car up the flatbed. |
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I've contended with similar. Some ideas here...
Tow strap recommendations for front of 911? Also, we used Rhino Inc. tie down straps for the recent 2,500 mile trailer roundtrip to / from the Hill Country Rallye. I don't have a picture of it, but this "double width" hook locked into the front a-arm torsion bar receptacle openings in such a way that the strap angle was as low as possible. An unexpected feature as a result of the opening being oblong as opposed to circular. ![]()
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I agree famoroso, my original tow points are flattened due to PO and their low driveway or speed bumps so they’re useless and might break weld if I try to straighten them out. So having a set of those soft tow loops that can extend beyond the bumper/spoiler/dam would help, even if put thru the control arm, but also helps to “air up”the front tires and having some 2x6 planks to get more clearance (1-1/2”) of those critical few feet to get over the apex of either the flatbed or tow ramp.
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Quote:
1) re-bend your existing tie down / tow hooks to the vertical position. In addition to them being the best front tie down option when I towed to / from HCR, the handful of times I actually bottomed out on the rallye they were the first / only body part to hit. Sounded PAINFUL, but ultimately it just ground off a couple millimeters of steel. They're sacrificial, so... sacrifice them to the Porsche gods. 2) install new factory front tie down / tow hooks (assuming they're still available). 3) install Rennline front tie down / tow hooks. https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/RENE0304.htm?pn=REN-E03-04&SVSVSI=911M
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Frank Amoroso 911 M491 / M470 coupes: 1987 GP Wht / Blk "Apollo" 1987 Gemini Blue / Blk "Gemini" 1989 GP Wht / Blk "Vents" |
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Towing or getting it on the ramp…..remove the lower spoiler, add the tow hooks (stock or rennline)
Strapping in to trailer, I always put my straps looped through the wheels,,,, safest and strongest |
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You have time, remove the spoiler, leave it in the garage
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Thanks for all the advice... you guys are great.. IM slowly learning more about these cars
the tow driver was great.. his said his company has a contract with another local porsche shop so he has done these cars all the time. My car went to Aase, but i have Haydon bros, Benton, Scotts and others all very close to me. So we did use the front tow hook and some wood planks. I got in and guided the car. https://photos.app.goo.gl/44X44Rh14Haiqaio6
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