Two Steps Forward...
 

So finally got around to getting a replacement rear sway bracket welded up, and also installed a Dansk premuffler. This weekend I will hit it with primer and satin black paint. "While in there" noticed two items that need to be addressed:

1 - Throttle linkage loop was broken - my welder ended up making a copy of the loop and sistering in a repair to the linkage going back to the motor. So that part is on order.

QUESTION - does this linkage just attach to the ball cup fitting at the back of the motor and attach to the bracket on the transmission?

2 - Premuffler HW provided was crap - have ordered all new yellow zinc bolts and nuts and will replace one at a time. Also noticed the crossover pipe is in rough shape, so will put that on the list of replacement items.

QUESTION - should I use hardened still lock nuts or copper locknuts?

Question 2 - I want to say that I researched and landed at stainless bolts with copper or copper coated nuts. The different materials were to prevent them corroding and fusing together.

Thanks!

Re: exhaust hardware from head pipe on down, I run stainless-stainless, with a little antiseize on the threads. No issues.

On the karts we ran stainless headers and studs on aluminum cylinders, fastened with brass hex nuts. Torque until they squeak, then just a little bit more. No issues.

That said, stainless has potential issues with dissimilar metals, as seen in the chart; however, iirc, the difference needs to be greater than 0.2V:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1682022479.gif

https://l-36.com/corrosion.php

We use a lot of stainless large bolts in our boatyard, but the are prone to galling. I have access to stainless in our fasteners, but am hesitant for that fact. My wrench likes the yellow zinc coated 8.8 fasteners with either same hardened lock nuts, or copper lock nuts.

What was on there lasted 35 years, but was bad. When I replace the cross pipe with stainless, may try the stainless all around, or copper nuts.

I've used copper, brass, and SS with success. I think the most important thing is to use anti seize, rather than the material.

You may not be able to easily detach the ball cup fitting on engine side. Mine was definitely stuck and I ended up leaving it on and unscrewing the linkage.
Counting the number of turns beforehand can be useful in order to pre-adjust the new linkage.
You will need to fine-adjust the new linkage so the idle switch clicks open as you slightly press the throttle.

Crossover pipe, been there too on my 88. The stock pipe with the below section is in one part and cannot be replaced without first removing one of the headers (can't remember which one, may be both).
You can buy the aftermarket that comes in two parts. The old pipe can be cut in place since it is scrap anyway.
But you are probably aware of this.

Thanks Pete and Wazz. I have coated yellow zinc steel and copper coated 8 HW, and also all stainless coming as well.

Wazz - looks to be a ***** to get in there to get to the ball cup - I am just worried about the weld repair on the linkage breaking and stranding me.

Dreading the crossover as I am not sure I want to fight the HE bolts and drilling out broken studs. At some point I know this will be a thing, but perhaps I will put off until I bite the bullet on a top end build.

Have the throttle linkage ordered, hope to have this week. A little paranoid about driving since a failure will leave me on the side of the road. I plan to pop off the linkage on the ball socket with some vice grips attached to hold it in place. Will disconnect from below and slide it out, match the length to the new one and slide that up into place, connect to the tranny throttle bracket, then attach with some long needle nose pliers.

What could possibly go wrong? :)

Always carry a box of dental floss in the glove box..I have woven it together to make a throttle cable and fixed broken hose clamps on the side of the road by wrapping 20 times and twisting with stick.
AND it is required to get the gas door open when the cable break's and you need gas.

Don't forget to remove the tiny lock pin that's holding the socket on the ball, and don't loose it, it is very tiny. Once this pin is removed, you may still not be able to separate the socket from the ball. That's what happened to me, so I chose to leave the socket bit on the ball and unscrew the linkage by first loosening the lock nut.
I can't figure out how hard it is to do this with the intake still in place, as I did it with everything but the engine block and heads removed. Flat 6 engine was indeed flat and everything was pretty accessible then, but still I have never been able to remove that f## socket from the ball.

As advertised, the ball socket is locked in place with the locking pin. There are no tools that I can Mcguyver to figure this out, so for now spend 45 minutes figuring out removing the idle set screw on the throttle linkage (adjustment slot was cleaved in half). I got a slightly longer set screw from Belmetrics. To remove ended up vice gripping the linkage at full throttle, removing the top spring and patiently easing it out. put the lock nut in close to there right place and inserted the new set screw. Made the adjustment, replaced with new spring and that part after some adjusting was done.

Did you just free up the lock nut at the linkage in between the intake, then remove the loop from the tranny bracket and unscrew from there? I want to visualize this nightmare before living it. Seems that could work. Did not feel like messing with this, so ended up making a harness to run the washer pump connections back up to a used intensive washer bottle. Tomorrow will give it a try before final installation.